Fusible Links keep going (1 Viewer)

[jonheld]

If AM2 is open, then you obviously have a short downstream of that.
Divide and conquer.
I would start with the common trouble spots like the area around the EGR pipe where all your injector wires run.
If your meter has a continuity beep tone, that would come in handy rather than blowing up more links. You're looking for a short to ground. So 1 meter lead on a good ground and the other on the connector side of the fusible link in question.

Again, the meter and the EWD is your guide. Eyeballs don't measure resistance.

 

[jonheld]

So looking at the flow of the AM2, I see nothing about the ECU (my CEL doesn’t come on when I turn the key to ON)

Without AM2 there is no feed to the 7.5 amp IGN fuse. That will kill the ECU as well.
Correction: it doesn't "kill" the ECU, but the ECU doesn't "know" that the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position, therefore the ECU is not in the "ready" state and there will be no CEL.

 

[tjones8]

Without AM2 there is no feed to the 7.5 amp IGN fuse. That will kill the ECU as well.
Correction: it doesn't "kill" the ECU, but the ECU doesn't know that the ignition switch is in the ON/RUN position, therefore there will be no CEL.

Injector 6 plug is pulled out a bit, digging in to look at more harness down there.

Also, that’s the connector for my Alternator (which I assume is the generator on the diagram) looks a little fried, I guess I could imagine the ground for it may be the culprit, if there is one? Has to be

 

[jonheld]

The alternator is grounded through the housing, not the harness.
What you're looking at is 20+ year old dielectric grease in that connector.

 

[tjones8]

The alternator is grounded through the housing, not the harness.
What you're looking at is 20+ year old dielectric grease in that connector.

Any idea what posts are which to test?

 

[jonheld]

Any idea what posts are which to test?

None of them should be ground, if that's what you're asking.
Pin 1 (yellow/light blue) will go logic low to light the charge lamp on the dash.
Pin 2 (black/light blue) is +12 when ignition hot
Pin 3 (black) is +12 from AM1.

If the internal regulator is shorted to ground, that would take out AM2 and you would read a short to ground on the solid white wire that runs from AM2 to the alternator output.

 

[tjones8]

None of them should be ground, if that's what you're asking.
Pin 1 (yellow/light blue) will go logic low to light the charge lamp on the dash.
Pin 2 (black/light blue) is +12 when ignition hot
Pin 3 (black) is +12 from AM1.

If the internal regulator is shorted to ground, that would take out AM2 and you would read a short to ground on the solid white wire that runs from AM2 to the alternator output.

Looks like I will hook up all of my wiring that I have disassembled and test the alt, everything is torn apart ATM

 

[tjones8]

Bump to the top

 

[tjones8]

I’m going to take a wild guess And say the plug housing on top of my distributor is not supposed to wiggle back-and-forth?

 

[Solid Taco]

Check your harness close to egr. Mine got bent after a valve cover job and had to resolder it.

 

[tjones8]

Check your harness close to egr. Mine got bent after a valve cover job and had to resolder it.

Yes sir, already looked over and DEI protected. The harness gave me a misfire issue before this current issue

 

[tjones8]

Just for future reference for guys looking for solutions, my distributor was the cause for immediate pink fuses going.