Fuel Leak on 1HD-T 1993 LC HDJ80 (1 Viewer)

[xna0329]

Hi all,

I’m working on a 1993 Land Cruiser 80 Series HDJ with the 1HD-T engine and recently discovered a diesel fuel leak. I’ve attached a photo and a video for reference.

The leak appears to be coming from the blue area in the pic. I also circled a spot in red because it seems like it may be missing a bolt—can someone confirm if that spot is supposed to have a bolt or plug?

Questions:

1. What’s the exact name of the part circled in blue?
2. Is the red-circled spot supposed to have a bolt? Could a missing bolt there cause a leak?
3. Any suggestions on the likely source?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

EDIT

Blue is the back of the injection pump. There are many places where it can leak from, but it means it needs a re-seal.

The threaded hole in red is not used, nothing is missing there and it is a blind hole so cannot leak.

 

[xna0329]

EDIT

Blue is the back of the injection pump. There are many places where it can leak from, but it means it needs a re-seal.

The threaded hole in red is not used, nothing is missing there and it is a blind hole so cannot leak.

I can see now there are so many lines behind the injection pump, it looks pretty tight back there. I’ve done some work on the rig myself, like installing the lift and replacing the rear lockers, but I’m wondering….. would you recommend tackling the injection pump removal on my own, or is it better to just send it to a shop and have them handle it? Thank you!

 

[GreenPump]

would you recommend tackling the injection pump removal on my own, or is it better to just send it to a shop and have them handle it? Thank you!

If it was me, I would pull my pump and send it in to be rebuilt. I have shipped two pumps to Back40 Imports to be rebuilt. The seals are 30 years old and they start to leak. Expect to pay $1000-1500 to have your pump rebuilt and bench tested, depending on the condition.

Pulling the pump is relatively easy if you have the correct tools and know what you are doing. Occasionally they get stuck on the injection pump drive and you need a puller to separate.

Reinstallation is more difficult, you will need to correctly time the pump. This can be done by trial and error, however I would recommend purchasing the appropriate factory service tool which is used with a dial indicator.

 

[xna0329]

EDIT

Blue is the back of the injection pump. There are many places where it can leak from, but it means it needs a re-seal.

The threaded hole in red is not used, nothing is missing there and it is a blind hole so cannot leak.

If it was me, I would pull my pump and send it in to be rebuilt. I have shipped two pumps to Back40 Imports to be rebuilt. The seals are 30 years old and they start to leak. Expect to pay $1000-1500 to have your pump rebuilt and bench tested, depending on the condition.

Pulling the pump is relatively easy if you have the correct tools and know what you are doing. Occasionally they get stuck on the injection pump drive and you need a puller to separate.

Reinstallation is more difficult, you will need to correctly time the pump. This can be done by trial and error, however I would recommend purchasing the appropriate factory service tool which is used with a dial indicator.

Thank you very much! I am in Alaska, the local shop would not even touch on the old rigs, so I guess I have to take it off by myself....

 

[rick_d]

Troubleshoot:
A portion of the blue (first photo) is the support bracket for the fuel line (has the weird 10 x 1.5 thread bolt- all other toyota 10mm bolts are 1.25). I would clean before removing anything to ID what is leaking. Also, it looks like you have a cold start device and I would ditch that.

Pulling pump:
Pulling the pump is not really hard if you have a decent "puller" to pop the injection pump back. Follow the FSM and get it off and replace the O ring and ideally woodruff key.

Replacement:
Replacing takes a little time but again follow FSM. YOU DO NOT NEED AN OFF$ET DIAL INDICATOR HOLDER FOR HZ/HDT.

VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator - Free Tech Help

The VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator you need plus free tech help from true VW experts. Same day shipping. Order on-line or call today!

www.partsplaceinc.com

You can find these straight timing units cheaper elsewhere. The offset allows you to keep the oil filter on.

If you do pull the pump I would strongly urge you to open the oil cooler and clean. You can replace the oil cooler cover with a later hz version that deletes the cooling line system for the ACSD (cold start bullshiat device). I have a write up with part numbers somewhere on mud.

Talk to Jon/ Yotahead about pump service. May be cheaper than shipping to lower 48.

 

[xna0329]

Troubleshoot:
A portion of the blue (first photo) is the support bracket for the fuel line (has the weird 10 x 1.5 thread bolt- all other toyota 10mm bolts are 1.25). I would clean before removing anything to ID what is leaking. Also, it looks like you have a cold start device and I would ditch that.

Pulling pump:
Pulling the pump is not really hard if you have a decent "puller" to pop the injection pump back. Follow the FSM and get it off and replace the O ring and ideally woodruff key.

Replacement:
Replacing takes a little time but again follow FSM. YOU DO NOT NEED AN OFF$ET DIAL INDICATOR HOLDER FOR HZ/HDT.

VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator - Free Tech Help

The VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator you need plus free tech help from true VW experts. Same day shipping. Order on-line or call today!

www.partsplaceinc.com

You can find these straight timing units cheaper elsewhere. The offset allows you to keep the oil filter on.

If you do pull the pump I would strongly urge you to open the oil cooler and clean. You can replace the oil cooler cover with a later hz version that deletes the cooling line system for the ACSD (cold start bullshiat device). I have a write up with part numbers somewhere on mud.

Talk to Jon/ Yotahead about pump service. May be cheaper than shipping to lower 48.

Thank you for your reply. I just took some videos, and it seems like the leak is not from the pump. Can you please take a look at the vidoe and let me know what your thought are? Here is link: Shared

 

[xna0329]

If it was me, I would pull my pump and send it in to be rebuilt. I have shipped two pumps to Back40 Imports to be rebuilt. The seals are 30 years old and they start to leak. Expect to pay $1000-1500 to have your pump rebuilt and bench tested, depending on the condition.

Pulling the pump is relatively easy if you have the correct tools and know what you are doing. Occasionally they get stuck on the injection pump drive and you need a puller to separate.

Reinstallation is more difficult, you will need to correctly time the pump. This can be done by trial and error, however I would recommend purchasing the appropriate factory service tool which is used with a dial indicator.

View attachment 3947711

Thank you for your reply. I just took some videos, and it seems like the leak is not from the pump. Can you please take a look at the vidoe and let me know what your thought are? Here is link: Shared

 

[xna0329]

Troubleshoot:
A portion of the blue (first photo) is the support bracket for the fuel line (has the weird 10 x 1.5 thread bolt- all other toyota 10mm bolts are 1.25). I would clean before removing anything to ID what is leaking. Also, it looks like you have a cold start device and I would ditch that.

Pulling pump:
Pulling the pump is not really hard if you have a decent "puller" to pop the injection pump back. Follow the FSM and get it off and replace the O ring and ideally woodruff key.

Replacement:
Replacing takes a little time but again follow FSM. YOU DO NOT NEED AN OFF$ET DIAL INDICATOR HOLDER FOR HZ/HDT.

VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator - Free Tech Help

The VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator you need plus free tech help from true VW experts. Same day shipping. Order on-line or call today!

www.partsplaceinc.com

You can find these straight timing units cheaper elsewhere. The offset allows you to keep the oil filter on.

If you do pull the pump I would strongly urge you to open the oil cooler and clean. You can replace the oil cooler cover with a later hz version that deletes the cooling line system for the ACSD (cold start bullshiat device). I have a write up with part numbers somewhere on mud.

Talk to Jon/ Yotahead about pump service. May be cheaper than shipping to lower 48.

I understand it's a 30+year old rig, but she only has 80k miles...

 

[xna0329]

Troubleshoot:
A portion of the blue (first photo) is the support bracket for the fuel line (has the weird 10 x 1.5 thread bolt- all other toyota 10mm bolts are 1.25). I would clean before removing anything to ID what is leaking. Also, it looks like you have a cold start device and I would ditch that.

Pulling pump:
Pulling the pump is not really hard if you have a decent "puller" to pop the injection pump back. Follow the FSM and get it off and replace the O ring and ideally woodruff key.

Replacement:
Replacing takes a little time but again follow FSM. YOU DO NOT NEED AN OFF$ET DIAL INDICATOR HOLDER FOR HZ/HDT.

VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator - Free Tech Help

The VW Injection Pump Dial Indicator you need plus free tech help from true VW experts. Same day shipping. Order on-line or call today!

www.partsplaceinc.com

You can find these straight timing units cheaper elsewhere. The offset allows you to keep the oil filter on.

If you do pull the pump I would strongly urge you to open the oil cooler and clean. You can replace the oil cooler cover with a later hz version that deletes the cooling line system for the ACSD (cold start bullshiat device). I have a write up with part numbers somewhere on mud.

Talk to Jon/ Yotahead about pump service. May be cheaper than shipping to lower 48.

Ummm I am an idiot, who is Jon/Yotahead....

 

[rick_d]

Yotahead is a mud member and does diesel injection rebuilds etc in British Columbia.

Looking at videos is that diesel or coolant? The automatic cold start device (ACSD) seems like problem. It has rubber coolant lines that run from head port to acsd then back to the oil cooler cover near the oil filter. If coolant, look for rubber hose/clamp leaks.
If diesel, pull the acsd off/use a single rubber hose to jump from head to cooler cover/place block off plate with O ring/- then throw the acsd into the pacific ocean preferably 100 miles offshore or more. Do not try and replace that crap.
The block off plate fits many bosch pumps so you can find used or you can order a kit from back40 /Dave a vendor here on mud.

ACSD Removal 1HD-T

forum.ih8mud.com

then total delete:

Overheat warning, oil coolers RnR with complete 1HDT/ACSD complete delete

There are several threads about deleting the ACSD off the pump and running a simple bypass hose. A 1/2 banana job and worth its weight in gold. The thing is there a little more discovery buried in 1HZ/HDT engines that warrants a deeper dive. A little history In 2006 I transplanted a JDM 1HDT...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[xna0329]

Yotahead is a mud member and does diesel injection rebuilds etc in British Columbia.

Looking at videos is that diesel or coolant? The automatic cold start device (ACSD) seems like problem. It has rubber coolant lines that run from head port to acsd then back to the oil cooler cover near the oil filter. If coolant, look for rubber hose/clamp leaks.
If diesel, pull the acsd off/use a single rubber hose to jump from head to cooler cover/place block off plate with O ring/- then throw the acsd into the pacific ocean preferably 100 miles offshore or more. Do not try and replace that crap.
The block off plate fits many bosch pumps so you can find used or you can order a kit from back40 /Dave a vendor here on mud.

ACSD Removal 1HD-T

forum.ih8mud.com

then total delete:

Overheat warning, oil coolers RnR with complete 1HDT/ACSD complete delete

There are several threads about deleting the ACSD off the pump and running a simple bypass hose. A 1/2 banana job and worth its weight in gold. The thing is there a little more discovery buried in 1HZ/HDT engines that warrants a deeper dive. A little history In 2006 I transplanted a JDM 1HDT...

forum.ih8mud.com

"If diesel, pull the acsd off/use a single rubber hose to jump from head to cooler cover/place block off plate with O ring/- then throw the acsd into the pacific ocean preferably 100 miles offshore or more. Do not try and replace that crap." hahahahaha

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

(has the weird 10 x 1.5 thread bolt- all other toyota 10mm bolts are 1.25).

They literally copied the Bosch pump, so it retains the DIN 10x1.5mm. I recently had to buy a tap to chase this thread... which I'll probably never use again.

I understand it's a 30+year old rig, but she only has 80k miles...

Yes, but the rubber seals age even if not heat cycled for 400,000 km etc

The common places for fuel leaks are the central shaft of the cold start device (ACSD), the governor link shaft where it come through the top of the pump, and the lower timer adjuster nut cover, below the ACSD.

Either way, if one seal has gone then it's likely others are not far behind.

The ACSD does appear to be problematic on the 1HD engines, though in a cold climate you may get smokier, noisier cold starts without it.

 

[xna0329]

Yotahead is a mud member and does diesel injection rebuilds etc in British Columbia.

Looking at videos is that diesel or coolant? The automatic cold start device (ACSD) seems like problem. It has rubber coolant lines that run from head port to acsd then back to the oil cooler cover near the oil filter. If coolant, look for rubber hose/clamp leaks.
If diesel, pull the acsd off/use a single rubber hose to jump from head to cooler cover/place block off plate with O ring/- then throw the acsd into the pacific ocean preferably 100 miles offshore or more. Do not try and replace that crap.
The block off plate fits many bosch pumps so you can find used or you can order a kit from back40 /Dave a vendor here on mud.

ACSD Removal 1HD-T

forum.ih8mud.com

then total delete:

Overheat warning, oil coolers RnR with complete 1HDT/ACSD complete delete

There are several threads about deleting the ACSD off the pump and running a simple bypass hose. A 1/2 banana job and worth its weight in gold. The thing is there a little more discovery buried in 1HZ/HDT engines that warrants a deeper dive. A little history In 2006 I transplanted a JDM 1HDT...

forum.ih8mud.com

Hi,

I went back and checked more closely, looks like the fuel is leaking from the bottom side of the injection pump, right around the area I marked in blue in this photo. Not sure what this part is called exactly, but that's definitely where the diesel is coming from.

This is not my photo, I just used it for reference. Anyone know what this part is or if it can be serviced without pulling the whole pump?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Diesel tends to creep from a leak point to a drip point. I would say the leak will be either from the distributive head (the cast iron rear part of the pump with the six delivery valves) where it meets the aluminium housing, or from the ACSD as has been discussed. Taking the head off the pump while it is attached to the engine is a bad idea. If it's the ACSD, it can be done in situ.

 

[xna0329]

Diesel tends to creep from a leak point to a drip point. I would say the leak will be either from the distributive head (the cast iron rear part of the pump with the six delivery valves) where it meets the aluminium housing, or from the ACSD as has been discussed. Taking the head off the pump while it is attached to the engine is a bad idea. If it's the ACSD, it can be done in situ.

I need to figure out a way to identify where the leak comes from first. I will take off the wheel to see if I can see it from the side tomorrow. Thank yuou very much

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

This is my injection pump (from a 4 cylinder). I have temporarily removed the ACSD and put a blanking plate on while I modify my ACSD.

I'm no professional, but in my experience (building or rebuilding a couple of pumps myself, but mostly seeing where other people's leak), these are the common leak points (in yellow). The yellow circle on the blanking plate represents the seal in the central shaft of the ACSD. The red line is where I would say yours is most likely leaking from.

Try spraying it down with brake cleaner, letting it dry off, then starting the engine and seeing where it starts to get wet.

 

[GreenPump]

Agree with all the aforementioned info from @Eurasiaoverland.

I had a leak from my ACSD shaft, and the fuel was creeping along the bottom of the pump and dripping off the lowest point (which happened to be the side closest to the block).

I spent a while trying to figure out where it was coming from. The leak slowly progressed, I would notice my pump had air in the mornings and the lift pump located on the fuel filter housing was soft.

How I found it, just like above. Sprayed off with brake cleaner, then operate the lift pump until stiff. You can also run the engine, but I found the clattering 1HDT in my face distracting.

 

[HectJDM]

ACSD appears to be problematic on 1HD engines IMO..

 

[rick_d]

Eurasiaoverland is 100% correct. Clean it to ID correctly. But time is more than likely up and a total overhaul of pump is in future- soon.
In the mid 2000's when low sulfur was mandated in the US, my then 14 year old hdt pump started leaking like a stuck pig. I drove for another month w poorer fuel economy and a mess until I had time to service. If your pump has not been serviced in 20 years you are lucky.
The pump body that you point to has no leak points. That fuel line support bracket is NOT the culprit. On the rear of the pump is the raw steel distributive head (w age rust colored) where the lines attach via delivery valves. IF you have a leak there you are not fixing the leak on the truck. That could be the problem but with the steady running leak I am now leaning toward the rebuild (and throw that acsd away in ocean as described upthread)