Fuel Gauge Stuck

[AaronT]

Hi all,

I've been working on a beautiful cruiser that I picked up from Land Cruisers Direct back in April, and I've hit a wall with a small problem: my fuel gauge is stuck.

For a little background, it wasn't when I bought the rig, and it didn't become a problem until I removed some aftermarket electronics. I removed a "toll" system, it's junction box, and a couple fuses that were the wrong amps, and had a copper sleeve attached (I'm not sure the proper name for this, but I've attached a picture). The only "loose" wire I have is a black, female crimp connector, and the plug for the keyless entry to the doors.

After removing those, the fuel gauge has been stuck at 1/4 tank. I have no reason to believe the sender is malfunctioning (there wasn't any irregular functioning prior to it becoming stuck) and the fuses are appropriate amperage and none are blown. Because of this, I'm almost certain that something was simply disconnected, but I'm not real savvy with wiring diagrams.

To make matters worse, I can't see, or get to, the back of the fuse box very well, and I'm thinking the dash has to be disassembled to access it. Is this the case?

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? It's cool to call me an idiot, provided you give some good advice on how I can not be an idiot.

I'd like to do it myself, but I'm more committed to not screwing up my truck.

Cheers,
Aaron

 

[jonheld]

Aaron, please give the year and country of origin.
The picture is of a "pigtail" connection used to add accessories without getting to the wires behind the fuse box. I consider it a shortcut or temporary fix.
Assuming you're US spec, left hand drive, the fusebox is easily accessed by removing the lower dash valence panel with the crotch vent. 4 or 5 screws and the plastic clips pull out. Nothing complicated.

 

[AaronT]

Hi Jon,

My mistake: it's a 1990 HDJ81 from Japan. 1-HDT power plant.

It's a right hand drive (which is complicating my effort). I'm a bit timid about messing with the dash, because being an older rig, there's some brittle plastic.
Also, it's probably important to note that the 15 amp pigtail was plugged into the 10 amp "Gauge" fuse.

Thanks for the reply,
Aaron
PS - I have the manuals (Engine and Chassy/body) but I don't know wiring well enough to make much use of them.

 

[jonheld]

Hi Jon,

My mistake: it's a 1990 HDJ81 from Japan. 1-HDT power plant.

It's a right hand drive (which is complicating my effort). I'm a bit timid about messing with the dash, because being an older rig, there's some brittle plastic.
Also, it's probably important to note that the 15 amp pigtail was plugged into the 10 amp "Gauge" fuse.

Thanks for the reply,
Aaron
PS - I have the manuals (Engine and Chassy/body) but I don't know wiring well enough to make much use of them.

Assuming that the circuits are the same, the gauge fuse circuit provides +12 for all the gauges in the cluster. If oil pressure, water temp, volt meter, and tachometer all work, then +12 is getting to the cluster. There is also a common ground for the cluster attached to a bolt behind the driver's kick panel. Ground is typically a solid brown wire.
You could try grounding the fuel sender wire. That should drop the needle to E or peg it to F. (I forget which way). That wire is yellow with a green stripe and carries all the way from the sender to the gauge.

 

[AaronT]

Jon, this is extremely helpful - thanks kindly brother.
I'll get out and start looking under it.

All my other gauges are working normally with no interference. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree with the wiring, and it is the sender gauge. I'll see about this and get back with some results in a few days.
Cheers,
Aaron

 

[AaronT]

It's the sender, for anyone dealing with similar problems. As a diagnostic tool, an electrical issue will have your gauge pegged at full or empty. Mine, being stuck at a quarter tank is very likely the sending unit.

Planning on putting in a sub tank, so I'll be waiting to fix this until thay project chalks up.

Cheers,

Aaron