Fuel Doctor for Dirty Diesel - This is an Australian-made Fuel Additive. any good? who's got experience? (3 Viewers)

What do you use in your diesel?

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Been thinking of fuel doctor. The key ingredient is biocide, kills algae. The surfactant is to distribute the biocide optimally.
Algae is the vegetable protein which allows the water to attach to the fuel. Just as egg is used as the protein to attach vinegar to oil.

Leave any non evapourative fuel long enough to hold atmospheric water, algae shall grow. But then, I don't think kerosene would allow algae to grow, which is another consideration.
It'll still happen with Kero. Cladosporium resinae is the primary fuel 'bug' forming in aviation jet fuels and these are closely related to kerosene.

Separately, the main reason our vehicle fuel tanks remain pretty clean is because the vehicles are regularly driven. We don't often see separated water forming in the tank or fuel filter bowls, (and there is water in our fuel) because it's of low enough ratio, and sufficiently dispersed due to agitation that is passes through the filters. The small centrifugal vehicle filter simply isn't enough to separate all the water from the fuel. But this isn't a problem, and the filter is designed to give warning when water levels get to a level to be of concern, but not before. If the alarm sounded with any level of moisture content, you'd never drive anywhere!
 
It'll still happen with Kero. Cladosporium resinae is the primary fuel 'bug' forming in aviation jet fuels and these are closely related to kerosene.

Separately, the main reason our vehicle fuel tanks remain pretty clean is because the vehicles are regularly driven. We don't often see separated water forming in the tank or fuel filter bowls, (and there is water in our fuel) because it's of low enough ratio, and sufficiently dispersed due to agitation that is passes through the filters. The small centrifugal vehicle filter simply isn't enough to separate all the water from the fuel. But this isn't a problem, and the filter is designed to give warning when water levels get to a level to be of concern, but not before. If the alarm sounded with any level of moisture content, you'd never drive anywhere!
cladosporium resinae, that's some nice kungfu!
I have this plastic tub of kero sitting in the weather for three years , the lid is on, it is 1/3 full the rest air. So I guess it is a very slow chemistry experiment then, to see how long before algae shall grow. Atmospheric conditions would make a difference, tropical regions would have more flora in the atmosphere. Still looks and smells like kero, perhaps slightly darker. More than likely does have water in it.

Yes regular drives is a key too.
 
Really respect you Dougal, you know heaps more than I . But water is everywhere, it is in air. I imagine your tanks are in good nick due to being kept full most of the time. Not picking a fight.
Diesel is an oil, so in it's pure state is an excellent rust barrier.

I know in clay for example, that even once bone atmospheric dry, it still has chemical water attached to the clay particles. Even if it feels dry and appears to have no water. Chemically attached water is only removed by gentle heating till around 260c or the water expands too quickly and the clay explodes due to the water turning to gas.

I expect there is a little water in fuel at the best of times, even if you can't see it. If fuel is allowed to settle water shall sink to the bottom, even in minuscule amounts. Rust requires the extra oxygen from air to liberate iron oxide, which is the natural state. The cycles of moisture, then oxygen etc. is what causes rust. Salts are another story.

It is interesting that more modern fuel tanks don't have a drain. Would even suggest an agenda is going on!
Sorry, I'll get off now. Looking for diversions.

Yes water is everywhere but you've to have very unusual circumstances to have it pooling in your fuel tank. If you lived in the jungle (really high humidity) and often refuelled in the rain that'd do it.
Filling up in dodgy areas from tanks that just got stirred up is another.

I remember a few decades ago a fuel station closing down and having 50% off fuel until the tanks were pumped dry. You couldn't pay me to put old stirred up underground tank sediment into my vehicles.

Methylated spirits is a really cheap and easy way to make water miscible in fuel and keep small amounts moving through. If you've got large amounts you don't want it going through the fuel system. It needs pumped out an run in a burner instead where there's no expensive injection system.
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Roadside bowsers are not so-equipped. So there is no real way to know if your fuel is in fact contaminated.

If you're worried about what the servo is pumping, carry a glass bottle. Pump a couple of litres into a bottle first to inspect it.



here it is VS the other brands

ok, so I've been dealing with some bad fuel. my fuel filter water light came on twice in a couple of days. I pulled the filter and drained what was in there into a container and it looked dirty to me.. not clear or transparent slight green/yellow diesel as I'm used to but it could also be the filter doing its job.

The Cruiser Runs great and smooth with no hesitation not too noisy no vibrations and lots of power. the only issue I have is sometimes it's smokey. and sometimes it changes from different fuel stations. sometimes smokes white grey, as if it had a leaky injector i suspect injectors to be sticky from the bad fuel.

when drained into a clear glass bottle you can see 2 layers I assume the bottom layer is mostly water.

if you follow my post here I have had some great success using Hot Shot's Diesel Extreme, and after an hour of driving my smoke issues virtually went away link here Diesel gurus, please help diagnose my 1HD-T - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diesel-gurus-please-help-diagnose-my-1hd-t.537255/post-15221917

I'm tempted to drain my fuel tank and start with fresh diesel but if this Fuel Doctor stuff from Australia works as advertised then maybe I should give it a shot... I'm wondering if anyone here has tried this stuff.

I have a Jerry can so I may try running some fresh stuff and see if that makes any noticeable difference


injectors were rebuilt about 20K KM ago but if there affected by bad fuel then I'll gladly send them away for rebuild and refresh


SPECS:
1HD-T 300k KM
compression test 480psi leak-down test good
New turbo
the pump was resealed and rebuilt at 200K KM
the pump is timed within the spec using Toyota tool
ACSD delete.


Take anything produced by 4wdAction with a large grain of salt! They were part of a large commercial magazine publishing company that relied on advertising revenue, basically, professional shills.

One thing that stands out in those demonstrations, the fuel doctor guy said 1ml to treat 1 litre. They added 20, 30, 50ml into a cup of fuel to get a visible change.
If the fuel was just water stirred in to an emulsion, it's it that impressive?

You could probably recreate that experiment yourself with a jar of cooking oil, add some water and shake vigorously, then add dish soap and see what happens

One of my uncles used to do fuel system installations. He stopped doing them after having to remove and replace numerous buried steel tanks under warranty after they'd rusted out due to electrolysis within the 1 year defect liability period. Burnt any profit in warranty works.
As a side note rejected steel servo tanks made interesting bomb proof sheds on the farm
 
Same uncle scored 50,000litres of 30+ year old diesel from a demolition project. The diesel was part of a back up power generation system for a large industrial complex. The generator had been redundant about 30 years and the fuel was left to sit in tanks.
My uncle bought some cheap plastic water tanks and transported the fuel to his farm, and slowly used it up in earth moving equipment and trucks.
He regularly had to change out blocked filters. Machines would starve for fuel and stall out, so time for another filter change :lol:
 
Same uncle scored 50,000litres of 30+ year old diesel from a demolition project. The diesel was part of a back up power generation system for a large industrial complex. The generator had been redundant about 30 years and the fuel was left to sit in tanks.
My uncle bought some cheap plastic water tanks and transported the fuel to his farm, and slowly used it up in earth moving equipment and trucks.
He regularly had to change out blocked filters. Machines would starve for fuel and stall out, so time for another filter change :lol:
Great tip I think I’ll Cary a 1L mason jar with me from now on before getting fuel.
 
guess I have been lucky, filled up little jerrys with diesel uncountable times, let it settle for months, no visible water. Never had visible water in my fuel tank or fuel lines either, or in the clear water trap.

Some of the ancient sedimentors left for 30 years untouched on mud, sure had some water in the fuel at some stage.

Not enthusiastic to drain my tank to find out, even if it does have a drain hole, which would not be much extra production cost to drill a hole and tap it in the factory. Manufacturing agenda I say.

Engine runs nice, more thanks to toyota than me.
I reckon if i had dirty fuel, it would run like a three legged dog or worse.

Apparently even metho has a fair bit of water in it too. The purer form is isopropyl alcohol.
Thanks Dougal for not taking offence, you are a legend.
 
with all this trouble I'm having with bad fuel I should get a Fass Fuel system it might be a bit overkill but it's the only filter setup that will remove air/water/debris i just need a fuel pressure regulator to drop it down 4-6PSI

browsing this kit for the 12V Cummins also has some heating options for our extreme cold weather in Canada


 
Do you use the same servo or go to many?
Does anyone else in your area experience bad fuel, which servo do they go to?
Local mechanic have any opinions upon servo's.
Is there much choice of servo's in your area?
How isolated are you? sorry don't know calgary, think it is in a song awhile ago. population, through traffic?

I just hope it is simply your supply, then you don't need to buy anything besides good fuel, one would hope.

hd is not the favourite engine on mud..but by the sounds of it you should be able to get more life. Secondary fuel filters are good.

But when they say 'titanium' edition this and that, pretty pictures, period in an authoritative voice, hmm here is a fancy commercial. Unsure how I lived life without it!
How much is it?

My closest servo is known for bad fuel, my wife's little mazda got bad petrol from them, local mechanic asked straight away was it that servo. He had to deal with lots of cars coming from that particular servo. We don't go there anymore.

Great song by tom waits, 'step right up'...
 
Personally, I'd carry s 50c mason jar and a 50c funnel before I bought a $1000 filter/pump to solve a problem you might simply avoid with an informed choice of which servo to use or avoid
I know the mason jar and funnel are alot cheaper but the price and convenience and filters are cheap but having the ability to heat the fuel would be nice too. we can reach -50C here. its definitely on my mind especially after I get my pump/injectors recalibrated and refreshed to protect the investment I think its a small price to pay.
 
so in my fuel sample out of the prime before the VE pump, there are 3 layers

Top layer milky diesel (suspended water)
a thin layer of black (biomaterial)
bottom layer Water

I think this confirms contamination,
I may pull the rear seat out and suck out the fuel I have from the access panel to try and get out as much as I can.
 
so in my fuel sample out of the prime before the VE pump, there are 3 layers

Top layer milky diesel (suspended water)
a thin layer of black (biomaterial)
bottom layer Water

I think this confirms contamination,
I may pull the rear seat out and suck out the fuel I have from the access panel to try and get out as much as I can.
doesn't sound good
 
so in my fuel sample out of the prime before the VE pump, there are 3 layers

Top layer milky diesel (suspended water)
a thin layer of black (biomaterial)
bottom layer Water

I think this confirms contamination,
I may pull the rear seat out and suck out the fuel I have from the access panel to try and get out as much as I can.

I bought a portable 12 volt low pressure transfer pump rated for oil for filling diffs and gearboxes etc.
Wasn't expensive, and it works a treat.

I wired an inline switch in, so I had good control for filling things.

Would make easy work of emptying a tank.

Bought on either ebay or Amazon
 

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