Fu#$ing Rear Break Drum!!!!!

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Jan 18, 2006
Reno, Nevada
OK...I ran a search and came up with a dude who had the same problem, but I had additional questions.
HOW DO I GET THIS FxxxING DRUM OFF THE REAR!!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad:
Its an FJ62.
I pulled the tire took out the set screw and nothing (wheel does turn). Checked the book and found that there is a small window on the back side to take the star screw back...Fxxxed around with that for about an hour. Three hours later I gave up.
I read on the other thread to just beat the piss out of the drum...is this right? Do I hit it straight on, or from the sides?
I was about ready to chop that tin piece of s*** dust plate off of it and beat it from the back side...CAN I DO THAT?
I have a feeling that my hard break is right under that damn drum.

Thanks all,

Oh yeah, sorry for the "potty mouth" some times you just have too.

two threaded 8mm holes in the drum. Thread in two bolts maybe 2" in length and tighten back and forth to walk the drum off. Shoes must be backed off first.
I got the shoes off as far as I could before I was just stripping out the star screw. I saw 2 holes, but one was for the set screw...
Is that one of them you were speaking of?

I just went out and looked at some old drums I have in the garage. One of them has 2 small holes (slightly bigger than 1/4" ...as in 8mm) directly across from one another in addition to the 2 larger ones and the 6 stud holes. The other drum I have only has one of these little buggers????? Maybe yours has none. Look for the threads inside. Hope this helps.
Yeah, Mine's a 6 lug, but I didn see one hole that was threaded. Ill have to investigate it further tomorrow noc.


Make sure your parking brake isn't on.
Obviously, if the wheel turns then the parking brake isn't set and the shoes are sufficiently backed off. Assuming the set screw is removed, the drum is ready to be removed. The years, however, will practically weld those mofos on there. I've had the same problem. I let some liquid wrench soak in around the seam between the drum and the hub then tap around the oustide of the drum with a heavy hammer. Eventually they break free. If the liquid wrench gives you no love, you could try some heat.
Two possibilities:

The drum could be "welded" to the axle. Use penetrating oil + heat + a few whacks with a BFH to loosen stuff up. Then use two 8X1.0 bolts in the threaded holes to push the drum away from the axle.

The drum may have worn enough to have a lip on the inside that catches on the shoes. In this case, you need to back off on the star washer by lots of clicks....maybe 50.

My guess is the first option. Use the two 8X1.0 bolts - they are your friends.
Most likely the drum is good and rusted to the hub of the axle. If it's NEVER been appart there might even be a paper gasket in there that tends to become one with the drum and axle "glueing" them together! :eek:

I have had success with AeroKroil (from Kano labs www.kanolabs.com ) sprayed around the hub and around each of the studs. Then beat both where the wheel mounts and on the outer diameter of the drum closer to the wheel mount face. Not love taps either; full roundhouse swings with 6-8 pound hand sledge or large ball peen hammer.

If THAT doesn't free the drum it's time to get messy. Drain the oil from the diff and remove the rear cover. Pull out the center pin and spacer block from the diff. Smack the axle itself into the center of the diff until the c-clip drops off. Pull the axle with the stuck drum out of the axle housing. Beat the axle out of the drum.

Consume a few :beer: 's; you've earned them! Then reinstall the axle/diff components and continue the brake work. Don't forget to refill the diff with fresh oil.

Sucks but that's the best way I know to remove a REALLY stuck drum...

A torch and BFH has always worked for me, even on a 1ton when the shoes stuck to the drum over 5 years of sitting. If not, try Zebra's method.

Thanks fellas...
I DOUSED the bastard down with PB Blaster. The problem that Im having, is that dust cover...It shrowds over the back lip of the drum, so I have nothing to BEAT on from the back side, nor can the penetrating oil get into where it needs to. I was about ready to HACK the fxxxer off and go to work on the back side of the drum with the BFH.
Im going to look into the screws, and Ill get a 3LB sledge from work today.
I backed the "STAR" screw off as far as it would go....with out being able to see in there and NEVER seeing the inside of the drum, I can only assume that theyre loose.
Im betting that the PO NEVER changed these breaks on the rear. He said he had NO mechanical ability and all the work he needed done he paid for.

You don't NEED to beat from the inside to outside. That's what I'm trying to tell you! :) You're not trying to literally beat the drum out off the axle but trying to hit the side of the drum towards the hub of the axle. The intent is to shear the paper gasket and rust that is holding the drum to the axle flange.

By squirting your favorite juice around the base of the lug studs you'll get penetrating oil in where it needs to go.

But it sounds like you need to get the axle shaft out so you can pound the axle out of the drum. If you cut up the backing plate you're gonna have to tear that axle apart anyway to replace the backing plate. Take the axle shaft out now and leave the backing plate alone. ;)

OK...2 holes threaded...check...Blaster in the studs and around the backing plate...check...BFH...check.
I worked late, so Ill have to get the bolts tomorrow.
I, for the ltime being, am going to avoid takng the axels out.

Ill let yall know how it goes.


I put together a small tool for this. A small piece of angle iron, with holes drilled in the same places as the threaded holes in the drum. Make the angle iron a bit bigger than the drum - roughly 5 - 6" longer on each side (i think i made mine 24" in length). Once the angle iron is secured to the drum, tap the outer edges of the angle iron to loosen the drum.

I did this after exhausting all the other suggestions above...and this worked like a charm. Be careful and go slow. This process will most likely kill anything that is left of your brake pads however - so be prepared to replace them.
I GOT IT!!!!!! I GOT IT!!!! I GOT IT!!!!!:bounce2: :bounce: :D :eek: !!!

Who says violence isnt necessary!?
I went and picked up the bolts as recommended...got home all excited and threaded em in...grabbed the socket...THE FU*&ING things WOULDNT THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!! I yelled a bunch of obscenities, grabbed my hammer and WHALED ON THE THING! I saw the top half FINALLY break free, so I kept going till I was finally able to walk the damn thing off!!!!!!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

BTW, DLERETTE....That is an awsome idea you came up with there!!!:beer:

This forum is great!

I get to witness brains (DLRETTE), and violence (chicago)!
Glad they're off!!
now before you put it back on, wire brush the two surfaces clean...paint them with gloss paint...then coat them with a liberal amount of anti-seize - you'll never have a problem on 'em again....

know your pain

I feel your pain chicago...had the same #@#% frustrations with mine...have two manuals, neither told how to get the freakin drum off!
But I was able to rummage through my nut/bolt collection and come across one that actually fit one of those holes (until this post, I had no idea it was even 8MM)...that was how I jerked the thing off. Good luck with the rest, and remember to replace the E and C clips with new ones!!! I didnt and wound up having to redo the entire brake job over!!!
Ive never had that experience doing a rear break job...I wish there was a camera on me when I BLEW...Im sure it had to be HYSTERICAL to watch.
I greezed all the contacts...new clips, but I didnt shoot with clear coat.

Thanks y'all for the help!


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