front wheel bearing repack need help interpreting fsm

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Jan 26, 2011
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im getting ready to swap my front rotors, while im in there im gonna repack the front wheel bearings. i also just got my fsm in the mail, and i just ordered the parts from dan today. im having some problems interpreting some parts of the manual can you guys help me out.

is there an easier way to preload the bearings without using the spring tesion guage as i dont have accese to one. the guy at toyota said you didnt need one if you preload the bearings right, and what size socket are you guys using to remove the lock nut, deep socket?
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also steps 7f-7h what bolt is this reffering to and why does it ask you "insert the bolt and pull it out", and last wh y does it say remove the bolts? what bolts? any and all helpfull tips and tricks to do this maintinence is gonna be very helpfull as i am a 1:banana: mechanic thanks mud h8errs :cheers:
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You can search for "landtanks bearing preload method". It doesnt require a scale, and has worked well for me. The deep socket is 54 mm but you can also use 2 1/8", that's what I use. When the instructions say, insert bolt and pull it out, they are referring to a bolt that you temporarily thread into the end of the axle to pull it out so you can get the snapring back on. The bolt is 11mm IIRC (this is an extra bolt, not part of the actual axle)
 
In land tanks method how much should I loosen up the adjusting nut 1/4 turn? And how do I know when the bearings are preloaded and ready to go?
 
I settle the bearings, tighten the inner nut, spin the rotor, loosen the nut spin, repeat a few times, making sure the nut stops at the same place each time. Then torque the inner to 20 ft/lb and assemble the rest to the FSM.
 
I settle the bearings, tighten the inner nut, spin the rotor, loosen the nut spin, repeat a few times, making sure the nut stops at the same place each time. Then torque the inner to 20 ft/lb and assemble the rest to the FSM.

x2, and no worries that it's not tight enough.
 
x2, and no worries that it's not tight enough.

x3...20 ft/lb inner and 48 ft/lb outer on new bearings a year ago, rechecked 2 weeks ago, and no worries here either.
 
also steps 7f-7h what bolt is this reffering to and why does it ask you "insert the bolt and pull it out" said:
I didn't have a bolt so I inserted the snap-ring pliers into the hole in the axle, spread them apart, and pulled out the axle that way. for those of us (like myself) who didn't know why this was necessary in the first place, it exposes the groove on the axle so you can put the snap ring back on.
 
X whatever for the Landtank method works great.

The fish scale method is so hit or miss
 
I tighten inner until it barely moves and turn 2-3 times both ways and then tighten till it will not move, loosen then torque to 20ft lbs. Outer I tighten to 48ft lbs. make sure it spins smooth.
 
I was always taught to tighten until you feel resistance spin a few times and adjust accordingly. Always worked for me
 

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