Front wheel alignment question:

[Steve C]

Actually, the 80 would be a good candidate for tape measure alignment techniques:

1. Park car on level surface.
2. at rear of front tire tread, measure up about 4 inches from the ground.
3. stick a pin into rubber part of tread at this height (don't puncture tire, just stick a pin about a quater inch into one of the treads near the center of the tire tread)
4. repeat for other tire
5. measure distance from pin to pin with a tape messure (you need two people, and start at the 1 inch mark for accuracy)
6. roll the car forward so that the pins roll up and around to the front. Stop with the pins 4 inches off the ground.
7. Now measure the distance between the pins again in the same way as before.

8. The amount that the front measurement is less than the back measurement is the toe in.

Is this method accurate? Yes, If you are careful it is very accurate. Plus, if you are a cheapskate, you'll love it because it's free.

What about toe and caster? These can be measured also, but, are generally non adjustable.

 

[mabrodis]

I've done my own home-done alignment method also, but it's a bit more involved.

I put the frontend on jack stands, pull both tires off, then using C-clamps, clamp a 4' alum level to each rotor, on the bottom of the rotor works best (horizontal, perpendicular to the rotor), the C-clamp reaches behind to the brake backing plate. Once you get those on, then take a tape measure and make sure both levels stick out from the rotor the same distance. Then taking another level (pain in the butt) make sure those two C-clamped levels are level (when you clamp them you put them horizontal against the rotor). Once you do all of that, then you can use a tape measure to measure the distance inbetween the levels right at the rotor, then out at the end. Since you are measuring out quite a way it will amplify any toe-in/toe-out measurements. I don't know what the offical alignment spec is, nor do I know where that is achieved (end of rotor, end of factory tire, etc). I put mine so I'm toe'd in about 3/16" at the end of the 4' level (so probably 42" out from the rotor), I have no idea what real measurement that equates to, but it drives fine and doesn't wear the tires.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I've done my own home-done alignment method also, but it's a bit more involved.

I put the frontend on jack stands, pull both tires off, then using C-clamps, clamp a 4' alum level to each rotor, on the bottom of the rotor works best (horizontal, perpendicular to the rotor), the C-clamp reaches behind to the brake backing plate. Once you get those on, then take a tape measure and make sure both levels stick out from the rotor the same distance. Then taking another level (pain in the butt) make sure those two C-clamped levels are level (when you clamp them you put them horizontal against the rotor). Once you do all of that, then you can use a tape measure to measure the distance inbetween the levels right at the rotor, then out at the end. Since you are measuring out quite a way it will amplify any toe-in/toe-out measurements. I don't know what the offical alignment spec is, nor do I know where that is achieved (end of rotor, end of factory tire, etc). I put mine so I'm toe'd in about 3/16" at the end of the 4' level (so probably 42" out from the rotor), I have no idea what real measurement that equates to, but it drives fine and doesn't wear the tires.

I use this method also but I measure out only 16" from the center of the hub to set at 1/8". Takes more time but you know its right.

 

[DRTDuck]

Okay this is timely for me. Drop into a ditch this weekend really hard, bent the lower steel of the non-winch ARB. Up till now has driven perfectly straight for about 5 years, and no unusual tire wear.

Driving home on the interstate I notice it is now pulling to the right. (jammed it in the ditch on the right side).

Do I need to get a full alignment, or is the drag-link (arm coming out of the box) just wacked and I can fix it by adjusting?

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

OK guys. Where do I send my $49.95 check for all this info?

 

[Steve C]

Following some sort of impact damage, I would look to get an alignment on one of the high tech alignment machines. This would give a report with a printout of camber and caster, and the setback of the wheel.

However, unless something is really bent, all that will really happen as far as adjustment is setting the total toe wiht the tierod, then centering the wheel with the drag link, which can be done as described in the methods above.

I've read about the racing car alignments that use parallel strings to square up a car, but I have never tried it.

 

[robbie]

Send it to woody for site sponsership, then you could have a star or maybe a half of one. robbie

 

[Docmallory]

Okay, in other threads we have discussed how tires can affect alignment, and wheel/knuckle bearings have been mentioned too.

On a related note, since the rear axle has some lateral movement as it goes up or down, can sagging springs in the rear have a significant effect on alignment - and does a 4-wheel alignment have any value with these trucks?

TIA

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Okay, in other threads we have discussed how tires can affect alignment, and wheel/knuckle bearings have been mentioned too.

On a related note, since the rear axle has some lateral movement as it goes up or down, can sagging springs in the rear have a significant effect on alignment - and does a 4-wheel alignment have any value with these trucks?

TIA

You would need adjustable track bars for a 4-wheel alignment. A sagging rear end would give you slightly more postive caster in the front witch can be a good thing. On a stock 80 the rear track bar is almost level so it would need to sag a lot to change the lateral alignment.

 

[DRTDuck]

Regarding my above post, here's my crunch. She really moaned an groaned getting out of that ditch.

So I guess I should buck up and pay for an alignment.

 

[Docmallory]

Phil,

Very thorough answer. Thanks. I had realized that the rear is not adjustable - yet I guess I'm wondering what role the thrust angle really plays.

 

[DRTDuck]

So how big of a deal is it to drive with the alignment off? As stated above it is pulling to the right a little (intersate driving, don't notice in town). I plan to get new tires in the spring. Can it wait until then for an alignment or shoud I get it done now? Between now and then I'll probably only have one or two interstate trips.

I guess I'm ignorant as to what may happen to the rig other than tire wear.

 

[DRTDuck]

Any thoughts on my question above?

 

[e9999]

yes, will wear out tires more unevenly, probably negligible amount of additional wear on steering components, and higher chance to get into a ditch or another car...

 

[Darwood]

Also if the truck is pulling to any direction there really isn't any way to fix it with an alignment. The only adjustment you have is toe and that will affect tire wear and turn in/wander. If the truck is pulling try checking the tire pressure to see if one side is different than the other . You could even fill up the side that the truck is pulling to a little more to compensate (however this might wear the tires strange).

 

[Jim_Chow]

The best Toyota dealer I've gone to is South Bay Toyota in LA (they're a block away from Toyota USA headquarters). After my lift and after the tire shop (Big-O) nearly killed me by not properly torquing the caster/camber bolts (they came loose when I drove over a seam in a overpass on the freeway at 70mph, vehicle lurched, had to turn the wheel 45 deg to keep the rig straight), I went to South Bay Toyota, which aligned it perfectly. And after I regeared the front diff (had to pull part of the IFS cross-beam to remove the diff, so just one wheel was out of whack), I had them realign it. The mechanic showed me that they deliberately set one of the adjustements assymetrical to compensate for the slight tilt on roads for drainage. Anyways, he was saavy enough to mention that 'for some strange reason, just one wheel was out of alignment.' Yeah, I explained to him I just regeared the front diff and had to pull the IFS support on the side with the misaligned wheel. BTW, the Big-O shop's equipment must have been way out of calibration. On their first attempt, the rig was pulling hard left. Personally, I'd trust the dealer more than an indep. shop.

 

[bdeakin]

Something to keep in mind is that things can go horribly wrong if your alignment is out of whack. If, as a result of age or 'wheeling, your bushings and such are tired, you can develop what's known as "Death Wobble", as it's known in the Jeeping community. It's less common on Cruisers, but it can happen. I had it happen to me, and it was SCARY. My wife was driving at the time, and it was a while before she drove again... I got an alignment the next day... and drove surface streets until I got to the shop.

By the way, Howdy! I'm new to the forum.

 

[e9999]

Something to keep in mind is that things can go horribly wrong if your alignment is out of whack. If, as a result of age or 'wheeling, your bushings and such are tired, you can develop what's known as "Death Wobble", as it's known in the Jeeping community. It's less common on Cruisers, but it can happen. I had it happen to me, and it was SCARY. My wife was driving at the time, and it was a while before she drove again... I got an alignment the next day... and drove surface streets until I got to the shop.

By the way, Howdy! I'm new to the forum.

hmmm.... welcome, Heeper! We forgive you since you finally saw the light!

 

[Darwood]

I loved the "death wobble" in my ZJ. Nothing like the axle trying to shake it's way free. If I'm to believe Christo (and I do) "death wobble" is mainly from too negative of caster (which makes sense since your wheels should be trying to turn around on you, like a shopping cart with the wheels backwards). Unfortunately there is no easy way to align the caster in an 80 like there is in a Jeep (ahh I said it without derogatorisims!).

This thread reminds me, I need to check my toe. My truck likes to turn in a little too easy and the wheels don't like to straighten out at speeds < 10mph.

 

[e9999]

snip
This thread reminds me, I need to check my toe. My truck likes to turn in a little too easy and the wheels don't like to straighten out at speeds < 10mph.

uh? your toe? you're steering with your bare feet?
must be quite a sight!