Front Swaybar Disconnect for a 80 (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

I searched the forum for info on a 80 swaybar disconnect and come up with zero. Is a front swaybar not recommended on a 80? Is it too much weight transfer for coils to control? Difficult to do-not as straight forward as other vehicles? Any input would be appreciated.

Phil

 

[Safado]

Buddy of mine is running no sway bars on his DD ever since breaking the mounts on both the front and back on the Rubicon last September. Just did Moab last weekend without a problem...so I'd say no. Just undo the bolts and go with the flow.

 

[Rogue]

It gets tippy with no swaybars at all. Be careful.

 

[thelal]

Here's some links to disconnects.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/swaybar2/
http://home.earthlink.net/~rockjaw/
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/jksdisconnects/index.htm

Also include copy of article that Scott Spackman (Aussie) did for his 80. May need to enlarge. Can send as Word doc if drop email.

Lal
brendan.lally@mail.com

 

[ginericLC]

I think I remember Christo Slee stating somewhere that that articulation gained by not having the swaybar connected was not worth the hassle of not having one. Maybe it is in the tech section of his site?

 

[Curran]

Here is the quote from Christo:

[tt]5. Swaybars: Both the front and rear swaybars should be lowered. We lower them 2" in the rear and 1.5"(more if the N73L shocks are used) in the front. If you don't do this, you run the risk of breaking the swaybar connecting rods or bolts. On the front, you will push the drive shaft into the swaybar and dent the protection sleeve that covers the slip joint.

Swaybar disconnects are not the easiest thing to make for the 80 Series. The swaybars are attached on the axle, and the links attach it to the frame. Thus when disconnected they are still on the axle and there is no proper way to secure them out of the way. On ramp testing, disconnecting the swaybars does not change the results much. When you ramp the truck, even with swaybars you can still force the suspension to cycle completely. However on the trail it is a different story. The truck is much more stable and the suspension moves easier. The body tends to stay level with the axles doing the work.

We do not recommend driving the trucks on the road with swaybars removed.

[/tt]
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_35.htm

 

[alia176]

The above double pin method is very simple to fabricate and install. One thing to note is that you might hear noises coming from that area as the suspension moves up/down. It all depends on how tight your tolerances are when you fab these disconnects. Not a big deal for most people. I noticed this was the case for my Wrangler and Cherokee friends.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Yes, the disconnect is easy to make, but what do you do with the swaybar arms that is still there?

 

[bjowett]

There are a couple of neat ways to approach the problem of the hanging arms after disconnect. They won't be as cheap, easy, or simple as regular disconnects, but can be done. :

 

[thelal]

Brian,
What are the neat ways?

 

[waldrtw]

On the front of the 80 it looks like if you unbolt the sway bar and attached it up to the frame and out of the way it would work, unless the driveshaft would hit it! The rear I think you could make a bungee strap that let the sway bar stay on the axle and would flex the bungee under flex. Just thinking about it.

Tim

 

[NW-sickboy]

i may be a little bigger up front than most (sexual ennundo included) and think i am gaining more becaue i do run a 6 inch spring AND spacers.... i do belive that spacers were plenty with J's and 35s. not sure that the work or trail head hastle would be worth it, or worth anything..... i dont currently run sway bars up front... not that bad.... but i dont drive it like a porsche i drive it like an 80 with 6 inch lift and 37s....

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

With the front sway bar disconnected (the rear does not seem as restrictive) does weight transfer become an issue? How does it effect side hill action and ledges?
I guess what I trying to determine is it worth the time to come up with something so I can disconnect.
Another thing to consider is that I’m running 37s with lift.

Phil

 

[Bradass80]

I don't have the the rear sway bar on my 92 but the front i just unbolt at the trail head, as far as sway bars limiting flex, i'm sure mine does because i've torn he crap out of the bushings a few times because i forgot to take the sway bar off, but my suspension isn't exactly stock either, Brad.

 

[bjowett]

Some quicky sketches...

Both are more of semi-disconnects. First uses a pin and torsion spring. Remove pin and 2 sections allow expansion/bar can drop. Torsion spring probably not required unless both sides of bar get the disconnects.

Second comes from Mitsubishi back in the early 90's, not sure if it ever saw production. Replace 1 link with small locking shock like hydraulic cylinder, remote actuation would be a possibility. Cheaper would non hydraulic, lock with a pin.

 

[concretejungle]

BJ, could you post those pics again?

Trying to figure out if unbolting the front only swaybar at the trail head is even worth it? How long does it take? Do you really get any more flex? THis is all for trail only, not street. If i do disconnect the front sway bar, i will re-connect before driving back home.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

BJ, could you post those pics again?

Trying to figure out if unbolting the front only swaybar at the trail head is even worth it? How long does it take? Do you really get any more flex? THis is all for trail only, not street. If i do disconnect the front sway bar, i will re-connect before driving back home.

Try this link for disconnect on the 80....ez to connect and disconnect and the fab is basic

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=22921

 

[concretejungle]

Thanks Phil. So, how are these disconnects holding up? Is it worth the time and money for this set-up or would you suggest just leaving them on?

oh, one other thing Phil, in the link you posted, it describes another pic i believe, but doesn't show it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks Phil. So, how are these disconnects holding up? Is it worth the time and money for this set-up or would you suggest just leaving them on?

oh, one other thing Phil, in the link you posted, it describes another pic i believe, but doesn't show it.

Absolutely not problems at all – love it. They are very ez to make and ez to connect and disconnect. Just check your clearance with your drive shaft and sway bar on full droop. I had already dropped the rear mounts to the sway bar 2 1/2” prior to building the disconnects and it still hit (bad engineering on my part). That is why I had to drop the resting point when disconnected. Depending on your lift and travel you may need to adjust the design.

 

[juane]

Trying to figure out if unbolting the front only swaybar at the trail head is even worth it? How long does it take? Do you really get any more flex?

Here's a snap of rear articulation with OME 2.5 lift and 33s. Extended sway bar links STILL connected.


And see here for a similar setup with bars, front and rear, still connected.:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=27139


juane