front seat gear swap (Broken Seat/Missing Cap Issue, pt. 2) (1 Viewer)

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was in the process of replacing the gears for my seats and found that there is no way to press the gear off. the gear and suppose to be metal piece was all one plastic gear. would take a picture of it but currently at work so you guys better understand what im saying. but if you do, i wanted to know if anyone knows if theres a part number or what it called
Seems really unlikely that it's one solid plastic piece... when you get a chance put up a picture, I'd be interested in seeing it.
 
Seems really unlikely that it's one solid plastic piece... when you get a chance put up a picture, I'd be interested in seeing it.
I knew I should have taken a picture of it. But I don’t have my cruiser at the moment as it’s in the shop getting the head gasket replaced. But I’m pretty sure it’s one solid piece. I cleaned it and the shaft is definitely plastic and it is one complete list
 
Nearly a decade later this post saved the day again. Plug popped out while wife was moving passenger seat and it stuck forward. Quick search on MUD when I got home and 5 minutes later, seat is fixed. Didn’t even have to remove it. Thanks guys!
 
Plug popped out while wife was moving passenger seat and it stuck forward.
Just as an FYI, if you're old original cap fell out once, it'll fall out again. If you read post #220 of this thread you'll see i first tried teflon tape to hold my cap in place, that worked for awhile, but the cap still fell out again. So to keep my old cap from falling out again i came up with a more permanent fix. What i did was to drilled a small hole right at the interface of the cap to the housing. Then i put a small screw in that hole that's made for use with plastic to hold the cap in place. Since I did this fix almost 2 years ago, that cap hasn't fallen out once.
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Picture of all the the parts you removed, and most of the tools. Really not that much to it, I did all the bolts finger tight, then went around and put a wrench on them.. remember not to over torque those shaft nuts.

Also if you haven't done the white cap, you may as well install that now since the seat is right in front of you. This is the passenger seat, if you hadn't guessed that already, a perfectly working passenger seat I might ad. Tonight I swapped out both the white cap, and the gear, with ones that I have made.
View attachment 252650View attachment 252651
I need this white cap. It went missing and I bought a new motor housing complete but it too came without the cap. Any help suggestions
 
@nakman 's parts have saved me hundreds of $$, and tons of inconvenience. Everyone with an 80 should buy 2 sets and keep them in the center console, I need another 2 sets and will order since I've now replaced both sides. But seriously, your 80 series is getting close to 30 years old, you will need these, it's just a matter of time.
 
I bought this kit and it worked like a charm. It was the second thing I did after buying my 80. It was really easy to do. Thanks
 
Just ordered a set of these gears. Excited to finally get this done!
Fixed my passenger seat 2 years ago. I found out my drivers side gear is stripped. I had an extra gear from my first purchase. I tighten the white endcap toooooo tight. I stripped the gear. Now I ordered 4 gears just in case I screw up again.
 
I installed new gears and messed up on aligning both sides, how can I synchronize both sides ?
 
OMG. I replaced the passenger side 2 years ago with no issue. Now I'm replacing the drivers side and going on 5 hours. Replaced both gears and now nothing moves. I'm going to shoot myself. I put some grease in the gears this time and I think its probably too thick. Idk. Maybe the bar that is inside the tube is not moving.
 
I installed new gears and messed up on aligning both sides, how can I synchronize both sides ?
I had the same problem, when it came off, the rails are not centered. I removed the white support on the opposite side of the missing white cap, two screws. I removed the two bolts going back and forth. Then I wiggles and turned the long screw, spin it, until both sides aligned.
I ordered the cap. Got a spare one. Worked great. Finally the seat is working!!!
 
Just as an FYI, if you're old original cap fell out once, it'll fall out again. If you read post #220 of this thread you'll see i first tried teflon tape to hold my cap in place, that worked for awhile, but the cap still fell out again. So to keep my old cap from falling out again i came up with a more permanent fix. What i did was to drilled a small hole right at the interface of the cap to the housing. Then i put a small screw in that hole that's made for use with plastic to hold the cap in place. Since I did this fix almost 2 years ago, that cap hasn't fallen out onc


Question: I am worried that it will come loose again. I saw the thread of putting a screw to hold it in place. Has anybody tried gluing it with LockTite blue? I see someone used KrazyGlue, but I'd like to remove it in case I need to replace the gear in the future.
 
How close do they have to be? I aligned mine within about a 1/16" and my seat makes terrible noises moving backwards, it moves forwards alright.

I'm a little frustrated, I've taken it apart and tried to line it up about 10 times.

Any thoughts on getting it all lined up and working well?
 
Question: I am worried that it will come loose again. I saw the thread of putting a screw to hold it in place. Has anybody tried gluing it with LockTite blue? I see someone used KrazyGlue, but I'd like to remove it in case I need to replace the gear in the future.
Locktite blue is made to work with metal. To glue that cap in place you would need to use a glue that's made for use with plastic.

One problem i can see with using glue, If you glued it in place, you could easily strip out that screw driver slot in the end of the cap if you ever have to remove it.

Holding that cap in place with a screw MADE FOR USE with plastic, would allow you to easily remove it. Just my 2 cents, YMMV.

You may find the link i posted below helpful, if you decide to try the glue route.

 
Locktite blue is made to work with metal. To glue that cap in place you would need to use a glue that's made for use with plastic.

One problem i can see with using glue, If you glued it in place, you could easily strip out that screw driver slot in the end of the cap if you ever have to remove it.

Holding that cap in place with a screw MADE FOR USE with plastic, would allow you to easily remove it. Just my 2 cents, YMMV.

You may find the link i posted below helpful, if you decide to try the glue route.

Go with the set screw!
 
There are washers on either side of the wormgear/white plastic housing, along the screwshaft. I don't see them in the drawing (page 1 of thread), and they're different ID. Do you have an idea what sizes they are, or where I can get them? Someone has been monkeying around under the driver's seat, but the passenger seat has everything.
 
There are washers on either side of the wormgear/white plastic housing, along the screwshaft. I don't see them in the drawing (page 1 of thread), and they're different ID. Do you have an idea what sizes they are, or where I can get them? Someone has been monkeying around under the driver's seat, but the passenger seat has everything.

This is what I found:
When I pulled the gears on my seats out as I recall there was a slight difference between what has been documented on the forum and what I found. The rubber washer if it existed was just a thick gooey mess mixed with the remaining old hard grease. There was one addition washer per seat in one of the gear housings. I think it was on the motor side.

Not knowing the thickness of that rubber washer I purchased generic 7/16" rubber washers and 7/16" stainless flat washers from Lowes. The flat washers had acceptable OD/ID as compared to the original washers but were slightly thicker. The rubber washers had the correct ID but the OD needed to be cut down. To do this I sandwiched the rubber between the washers and used my Dremel tool to sand the rubber to size.

Each gearbox is assembled in order:

steel washer
plastic thrust bearing
steel washer
gear assembly
steel washer
rubber washer
steel washer - see my note below

Notes:
The first three pieces locate the gear at the proper location to mesh properly with the shaft that drives it so that was good. When assembling the rest without that last steel washer I thought the axle play was too much. Adding one of the original washers eliminated that play with a slight amount of drag. This was all fitting without grease. I decided it best to take one of the purchased washers and reduce its thickness on my sander until that drag was eliminated. Assembled with grease and everything is working properly.

If a thinner rubber washer was was used I'm sure everything would have fit without grinding.
 

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