personally I'd start with that loose passenger side wheel. Highly suspect for introducing some pull.
front end alignment woes
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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Turbo, post your question on 80scool or the Aussie list. I recall an Austrialian 80s owner who has spent years working in front end shops who was quite opinionated on how to set up the front end on a lifted 80 and very willing to discuss in detail his approach. Actually, I seem to recall a few Aussies with alignment opinions, and I don't think they all quite agreed. Gee, just like here!
Disregarding the setups for desert racing (a specialty setup unrelated to offroading as we know it), the only alignment variable generally varied for offroading vs onroad behavior is caster.
More caster on road (obviously within limits) provides steering feedback in corners and also causes a vehicle to track well - desired traits. More caster offroad tends to cause steering unwanted feedback under high torque conditions known as kickback, which can injure your hands. Offroad it also causes more load on the PS system, which gets pretty severe with large low pressure tires. This is because the contact patch tends to drag an arc as you turn the wheels at a full stop (vs no caster, it would simply rotate about its center). This is extremely severe when the front tires are trapped a bit as between rocks or in a hole - major loads on the steering system.
So, minimal caster within spec for wheeling if you're splitting hairs, maximum caster for onroad stability. With larger (wider tires), having more caster is even more important onroad for maintaining handling and reducing bumpsteer and tramlining (negative traits).
That's the Reader's Digest version.
DougM
More caster on road (obviously within limits) provides steering feedback in corners and also causes a vehicle to track well - desired traits. More caster offroad tends to cause steering unwanted feedback under high torque conditions known as kickback, which can injure your hands. Offroad it also causes more load on the PS system, which gets pretty severe with large low pressure tires. This is because the contact patch tends to drag an arc as you turn the wheels at a full stop (vs no caster, it would simply rotate about its center). This is extremely severe when the front tires are trapped a bit as between rocks or in a hole - major loads on the steering system.
So, minimal caster within spec for wheeling if you're splitting hairs, maximum caster for onroad stability. With larger (wider tires), having more caster is even more important onroad for maintaining handling and reducing bumpsteer and tramlining (negative traits).
That's the Reader's Digest version.
DougM
Thanks Doug. Makes perfect sense. I appreciate it. 
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for all the replys.
First: RIch, i think my nuckles look clean because i did a front axle service about 10,000 miles ago, with new pads and rotors. I did not replace the trunion bearings. I was going to replace the wheel bearings, but had a mechanic with me and when i took out the timkens, they looked brand new and the mechanic insisted that i should just leave those. I set the preload on them just as the FSM and board members have stated.
Secondly: Doug, you are right, this just started happening after two things happend. One, new 33 inch truxus MTRs. Secondly, i had too much play in the wheel, so i went by the FSM instructions on tightening up the play in the wheel with the adjusting screw on the power steering pump. I went in yesterday to loosen it up a bit. Maybe i over did it.
I have never heard of a tire pulling, but i will switch the tires to see. So, now the question is, other than fabing something like Bjowett did, how would i get my caster correct, if i already have the correction bushings in?
First: RIch, i think my nuckles look clean because i did a front axle service about 10,000 miles ago, with new pads and rotors. I did not replace the trunion bearings. I was going to replace the wheel bearings, but had a mechanic with me and when i took out the timkens, they looked brand new and the mechanic insisted that i should just leave those. I set the preload on them just as the FSM and board members have stated.
Secondly: Doug, you are right, this just started happening after two things happend. One, new 33 inch truxus MTRs. Secondly, i had too much play in the wheel, so i went by the FSM instructions on tightening up the play in the wheel with the adjusting screw on the power steering pump. I went in yesterday to loosen it up a bit. Maybe i over did it.
I have never heard of a tire pulling, but i will switch the tires to see. So, now the question is, other than fabing something like Bjowett did, how would i get my caster correct, if i already have the correction bushings in?
Same setup, same problem.
Lift was installed by Slee, so I know it was done right. The pull is slight but consitent. I haven't attempted to switch the right for the left tire but will and post what changes, if any, resulted from this.
Lift was installed by Slee, so I know it was done right. The pull is slight but consitent. I haven't attempted to switch the right for the left tire but will and post what changes, if any, resulted from this.
Tire pull is out there more than most people realize. Swapping the front tires side-to-side should identify if a tire pull is the cause. This assumes that the tires are not directional. The pull should change sides or maybe go away if it is tire related.
D-
D-
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The bushings are correct, however you stated you had a medium lift? Is it possible the you have 850's in the front and no ARB bumper? 0 degrees caster with bushings installed on a 851 setup would be really strange.
Also, do you get excessive brake dust on the one side? Maybe a sticking caliper?
Also, do you get excessive brake dust on the one side? Maybe a sticking caliper?
- Thread starter
- #29
Christo, i'll check, but you sold it to me and we talked on the phone. I told you i didn't have an ARB or winch yet. I'm sure they are correct but i'll check.
UPDATE: so i owe you guys another one. First you said that i should't turn my front rotors but replace. I turned and ended up having to replace them later! One up for the mud team. Second, you suggested tire pull being the culprit for my right pulling front end with 0 degree caster. never heard of it but switched the tires this weekend. Almost completely gone!
I wonder if i could call interco and tell them something is up with one tire. It was pulling right, switched tires, and now pulling very slightly left, but not much at all. Maybe they will send me another tire.
ALSO: I suggest flushing your power steering fluid. I finally did it and mine looked like gear oil when it came out. Really really bad!
UPDATE: so i owe you guys another one. First you said that i should't turn my front rotors but replace. I turned and ended up having to replace them later! One up for the mud team. Second, you suggested tire pull being the culprit for my right pulling front end with 0 degree caster. never heard of it but switched the tires this weekend. Almost completely gone!
I wonder if i could call interco and tell them something is up with one tire. It was pulling right, switched tires, and now pulling very slightly left, but not much at all. Maybe they will send me another tire.ALSO: I suggest flushing your power steering fluid. I finally did it and mine looked like gear oil when it came out. Really really bad!
"Tire pull."
Trust me.......
Trust me.......
That's good, did you fix that loose front right wheel?
- Thread starter
- #33
landtank said:
10-4. I tightened the wheel bearing using the fish scale technique described here and in the FSM. It just seemed like i tightned it back just as it was, only no slight wobble now.
Tire pull, who woulda thunk it.
cdan
to you my friend.
Finally got around to switching the front tires around. The pull is less but still pulling to the right. I've not checked the alignment, so perhaps this is the problem. Let you know.
