Front Differential Explosion

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Nothing to tough, and I'm not a skinny pedel guy.
Off camber out of a creek bed, back end slid left and I high centered. POP! CLACK!
Spressomon strapped me out. After I got off the strap there were lots of noises when I moved the rig. Things were all right with the CDL in H. Long story short that didn't last. After some execelent trouble shooting Spressomon and Locrwln1
diaginosed that the front ring gear was kaputz. Locrwln1 jumped in and got things rolling and within 45 minutes we had the wheel flanges off, the front DL out (thanks Locrwln1!). We drove 200 miles home that way, with the CDL locked.

BTW those guys are still out there sucking up all the good sceanery and enjoying the good life. Who cooks scratch pizza and has espresso for breakfast when they camp?:confused:


Ok: #1) Thanks for the kudos but Jack was the real hero!
#2) You can provide a real remedy for about (or less) than you're gonna pay in sales tax to get another rig.

You got around great. No reason to lift, etc. Just put an ARB up front and you're done. Or get an unbreakable 80...nothing EVER goes wrong with 80's ;) Just be sure to get one that's SC/TC'd...
 
P.s. The knuckle puller was delivered while we were gone. Let me know when you want help.
 
'nother one

Norcal Wagons had a group of Wagons up on the Wentworth approach to the Rubicon yesterday. There were 3 100s with us including Snook (he of the 2 previous broken differentials). In a rocky stream bed just climbing normally over the rocks, one of the guys with us blew his front diff. It wasn't a particularly difficult spot, just a few rocks. There was no excessive stress, no bound tire, normal sized tires, nothing hard.

The guy that broke it, had a great attitude. "This gives me a reason to get an ARB." The field fix allowed him to get out under power, though he did have to be strapped several times. I don't know his screen name on IH8MUD, but I hope he sees this and posts his perspective.

Just my opinion, but in the tiny sample of 100s I've gone wheeling with 2 have broken a diff, one of them twice. This is a defective design, and not up to Toyota's usual over-engineered standard.
 
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Norcal Wagons had a group of Wagons up on the Wentworth approach to the Rubicon yesterday. There were 3 100s with us including Snook (he of the 2 previous broken differentials). In a rocky stream bed just climbing normally over the rocks, one of the guys with us blew his front diff. It wasn't a particularly difficult spot, just a few rocks. There was no excessive stress, no bound tire, normal sized tires, nothing hard.

The guy that broke it, had a great attitude. "This gives me a reason to get an ARB." The field fix allowed him to get out under power, though he did have to be strapped several times. I don't know his screen name on IH8MUD, but I hope he sees this and posts his perspective.

Just my opinion, but in the tiny sample of 100s I've gone wheeling with 2 have broken a diff, one of them twice. This is a defective design, and not up to Toyota's usual over-engineered standard.


Bummer. It IS BS that Toyota let this engineering defect go on: Total BS. But heh I guess Toyota had to bank that cash to save up to fix the faulty engineering/manufacturing for the FJ:rolleyes: .
 
Norcal Wagons had a group of Wagons up on the Wentworth approach to the Rubicon yesterday. There were 3 100s with us including Snook (he of the 2 previous broken differentials). In a rocky stream bed just climbing normally over the rocks, one of the guys with us blew his front diff. It wasn't a particularly difficult spot, just a few rocks. There was no excessive stress, no bound tire, nothing hard.

The guy that broke it, had a great attitude. "This gives me a reason to get an ARB." The field fix allowed him to get out under power, though he did have to be strapped several times. I don't know his screen name on IH8MUD, but I hope he sees this and posts his perspective.


100s are weak and they suck... :flipoff2:
 
Ya, Rohitosh (sp?) took it in stride with an extremely positive attitude, way to go man!

I just sold rohitash the rims that he put his wheelin' tires on, he must have had them on the rig. It was the power of me being their previous owner that busted that diff! :grinpimp: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Glad you guys got it out of there, though. He just did a bunch of mods, so I am sure, ARB here he comes.
 
I just sold rohitash the rims that he put his wheelin' tires on, he must have had them on the rig. It was the power of me being their previous owner that busted that diff! :grinpimp: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Glad you guys got it out of there, though. He just did a bunch of mods, so I am sure, ARB here he comes.


Ironically, he did not get the spacers he needed to run the big tires. Instead, he was on stock sized BFG ATs. Very unfortunate that it broke so easily. It was very similar to Snook's situation-no real difficulty, critical part failed.

After seeing Christo's SAS, that's the future.
 
Ironically, he did not get the spacers he needed to run the big tires. Instead, he was on stock sized BFG ATs. Very unfortunate that it broke so easily. It was very similar to Snook's situation-no real difficulty, critical part failed.

After seeing Christo's SAS, that's the future.


Only if you're a doctor ;) .
 
Rohitash took it extremely well, when I spoke to him he was very matter-of-fact about it, no whining, no complaining. Good guy all around.

On a side note, I finally got to see Snook's hacked up ARB bar in person in camp yesterday, that thing is extremely sweet! I really like how his truck is set up now.
 
sucks, but easy to remedy or PM, and getting the ARB is a nice improvement.

Talking about big issues, more expensive to PM than the 80 HG likely but a potential improvement instead of a status quo (new HG in the FZJ doesn't give you any improvement of course unless you shave off for ponies).

Plus, if things go bad with the 100 diff you may still be able to drive out after some trail surgery.
If things go bad with the 80 HG, you may lose your engine...

So the diff is not that bad in the grand scheme of things I guess. But yes, a design weakness.
 
sucks, but easy to remedy or PM, and getting the ARB is a nice improvement.

Talking about big issues, more expensive to PM than the 80 HG likely but a potential improvement instead of a status quo (new HG in the FZJ doesn't give you any improvement of course unless you shave off for ponies).

Plus, if things go bad with the 100 diff you may still be able to drive out after some trail surgery.
If things go bad with the 80 HG, you may lose your engine...

So the diff is not that bad in the grand scheme of things I guess. But yes, a design weakness.
And the 40's can bust the t-case in half. :rolleyes:
Every design has vulnerabilities.
 
And the 40's can bust the t-case in half. :rolleyes:
Every design has vulnerabilities.


they have to put something in, otherwise they would run forever and they would not sell any more parts or trucks, eh...? :D
 
Stronger diff?

Guys,

I'm the guy who broke the 100 series front diff last weekend on the Wentworth Springs Norcal run. From my perspective, it was'nt something particularly difficult I was attempting when the diff broke. I had done some more difficult stretches just before that with not much problem. Also the break itself seemed much less dramatic than some of the other 'diff explosions' - I hardly felt it inside.

I have not yet got the chance to open the diff to see exactly what is broken but am assuming it is the pinion ring/gear.

I have been talking to Shawn at River Side Differentials at Sacremento and doing some research on the net and have a fundamental question. How does getting an ARB locker on the front actually make for a stronger differential? From what I can understand I actually have the following 3 choices (please correct me if I'm not getting this right):
1. Replace the broken Pinion ring/gear with a stock Toyota ring/pinion as is and add the ARB locker
2. Replace the broken pinion ring/gear with a newer 4 pinion setup from Toyota + add ARB locker
3. Regear the front and rear diffs to 4.88 with aftermarket gears from Precision and add ARB locker.

From what I can understand the 98-2000 models had 4.3 gears and in that ratio there are no aftermarket options. So if I keep that ratio then I have to use the Toyota stock stuff and hence have the same weakness despite adding the ARB locker.

My conclusion seems to be that the only way to beef up the front diff is to re-gear and use aftermarket gears irrespective of whether I add an ARB locker or not.

My ideal scenario is to keep the current ratio (since 90% of the time I will be using stock size BFG ATs and only using my 35" Toyos on wheeling trips). In addition I want to somehow get a stronger diff and the ARB locker.

Thoughts / suggestions?
 
Any idea of pricing from River Side yet?
The local guy's quote here in Reno was through the roof.
 
Guys,

I'm the guy who broke the 100 series front diff last weekend on the Wentworth Springs Norcal run. From my perspective, it was'nt something particularly difficult I was attempting when the diff broke. I had done some more difficult stretches just before that with not much problem. Also the break itself seemed much less dramatic than some of the other 'diff explosions' - I hardly felt it inside.

I have not yet got the chance to open the diff to see exactly what is broken but am assuming it is the pinion ring/gear.

I have been talking to Shawn at River Side Differentials at Sacremento and doing some research on the net and have a fundamental question. How does getting an ARB locker on the front actually make for a stronger differential? From what I can understand I actually have the following 3 choices (please correct me if I'm not getting this right):
1. Replace the broken Pinion ring/gear with a stock Toyota ring/pinion as is and add the ARB locker
2. Replace the broken pinion ring/gear with a newer 4 pinion setup from Toyota + add ARB locker
3. Regear the front and rear diffs to 4.88 with aftermarket gears from Precision and add ARB locker.

From what I can understand the 98-2000 models had 4.3 gears and in that ratio there are no aftermarket options. So if I keep that ratio then I have to use the Toyota stock stuff and hence have the same weakness despite adding the ARB locker.

My conclusion seems to be that the only way to beef up the front diff is to re-gear and use aftermarket gears irrespective of whether I add an ARB locker or not.

My ideal scenario is to keep the current ratio (since 90% of the time I will be using stock size BFG ATs and only using my 35" Toyos on wheeling trips). In addition I want to somehow get a stronger diff and the ARB locker.

Thoughts / suggestions?



Well even the "experts" don't really know why the ARB locker equipped front 100 diffs are stronger. To be fair there is a relatively small number of us that have converted...but of the converts we, I can guarantee you, are harder on the rigs post ARB than before...and, boy I sure don't want to jynx meself with this but, zero issues to date with ARB up front. The only thing I can think of is the ARB carrier is stiffer torsionally than stock...somehow the ARB imparts less stress on the ring or R&P (even when not locked/engaged). Assuming you pulled a ring tooth and nothing else just put the 4.30 ratio R&P in along with the ARB and call it a day. Regardless if you up to the '00-'02 entire diff with housing you're still going to throw away the stock carrier by using the ARB...so all you really care about is the decision between what R&P ratio you want to end up with (assuming you're going to install the ARB).


But now, as you know, is the perfect opportunity to convert to 4.88 and 315's if that's the tire size you're aiming for down the road (you won't regret the overall performance on and off-road if you go this direction) https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=107231
 
<SNIP
2. Replace the broken pinion ring/gear with a newer 4 pinion setup from Toyota + add ARB lockerSNIP>

The 4 pinion complete set up from Toyota is the less costly option. The 4 pinion from Toyota takes the place of an ARB.

If your R&P is still good you could find a used 4 pinion carrier and install it.
 
Rohitash-Christo Slee could give you the best info. My understanding is that since the ARB replaces the entire differential carrier, and is far stronger, you have less deflection of the ring gear teeth under load. They are therefore less likely to fail. There is nothing wrong with the gears themselves, they are as strong or stronger than any aftermarket.

I would take the gears offered up on the norcal list and install the gears and ARB in your housing like Jay and Amando.
 

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