front crank seal replace

[Gumby]

I have a leak from my front crank seal. It's not really leaking too much oil, but it's spotting my driveway and getting rubber parts all oily so I gotta fix it. The AllData sez pull the radiator and crank pulley. I noticed while I was checking it out that the oil pump is directly behind the seal and the pump only costs 21.26 list (Part # 1510266020) I'm thinking change it while I'm in there. Any experience replacing a 1FZ-FE oil pump at 130K? Any wear? Any pressure difference? Anything I'm missing that will make the job much bigger than it looks like?

 

[clownmidget]

Todd, I'd make sure the upper oil pan arch is clean too. I had the upper & lower oil pans, crank pulley seal, oil pump seals, etc. all done right around the 1st of Jan this year. I know Dan had to deal with all this too just a few weeks prior. Two threads from that time with some pics.
(https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=9043&highlight=oil)
(https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=8239&highlight=oil)

Mike R.

 

[Gumby]

Thanks, Mike. Good info. The thread mentioned the oil pump cover bolts are a bear to get out, so maybe I won't do that. The leak is definately the seal as I do have the oil slinging patterns on the back of the pulley and it's flinging it every-damn-where.

 

[cruiserdan]

Todd,

The oil pump is not directly behind the crank pulley like a 20-22R is. It is offset to the LH side, under a cover. The cover is secured with counter-sunk Phillips-head machine screws. The screws can be very difficult to deal with if the timing cover is "in-frame". I would not recommend attempting to remove the oil pump cover unless you absolutely have to.

You will not need to remove the radiator. I was able to get the pulley off of the crank nose with the radiator in the frame. The true challenge is busting the crank pulley bolt loose. I have used the starter-bump and the last time my bud Todd (great name, no?) used a VERY COOL impact tool that had a fulcrum arm and a long bar with a handle that is held upright. You put a socket on the fulcrum and you hit the end of the arm with a BFH. It worked beautifully and is is not as dangerous as using the starter.

Remember that the torque spec on that bolt is 304 lb-ft. It is important to get it tight as the oil pump drive gear IS NOT keyed to the crank. It is clamped by the crank pulley. If the pulley gets loose you will lose oil pressure and power steering assist.


D-

 

[erics_bruisers]

304 lb-ft -- OMG -- I thought 90 was a lot -- !!

e

 

[clownmidget]

Yeah, getting that crankshaft pulley nut loose isn't really tough. I used the starter bump method 3 times (install s/c, fix oil leak, uninstall s/c) and it is really smooth. I sleaved the 24" 1/2"-drive breaker bar with about 3 ft of iron pipe (I think 1"?) and then zip tied it to the frame. Like I said, super smooth. But re-torquing that dog requires an sst to hold the crank stationary AND the big >305-ft/lb wrench. I used George Scolaro's home-brewed sst before and he actually sent me a pdf with the specs so if you need it pm me and I'll email it to you. For the uninstall of the s/c I was able to borrow one from Evan (55-100LX) via Joe S. It was essentially a large beefy chain whip style. Worked very nicely too but not something everyone will have sitting on a shelf. It definitely helps to have two people to do the retorquing - one of you may be hanging off that wrench like a monkey...
Mike R.

 

[landtank]

304 lb-ft -- OMG -- I thought 90 was a lot -- !!

e

 

[clownmidget]

Todd, don't forget to get a good 6-pt 30-mm socket. If you wait until the day you're doing it, most places only carry 12-pts and everyone knows how evil those are

 

[Gumby]

No problem on the tools here. I've got the sockets, breaker bar, big torque wrench and a flywheel holding tool. Good to know I don't have to pull the radiator. If only the 1FZE had a serp belt I could get this job done fast. Might as well just throw a S/C on it while I'm in there.

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

[landtoy80]

You can remove the cover to the oil pump in frame. Mine leaked after I replaced the crank seal
I used a Dremel tool to cut the screws so I could use a big slotted screwdriver to get them out. The heads of the screws strip out. I used bolts to replace some of the screws.

You can use a crow bar to hold the crank pulley for removal and torqueing. I did iy by my self.
A 1 3/16" six sided 3/4" socket fit fine. Get one of those big 3/4" socket sets with braker bar. Put a big pipe on the end. Set the big crowbar in the pulley, there is a knoch in the pulley to do this (its in the FSM) and put the crowbar on the frame and watch the 3/4" bend like its going to brake. The bolt will pop free at that point.

For oil pan arch leaks and lower pan leaks. Rotella T syn put an end to those leaks.
It even stopped the slow seepage from the timing chain cover
THe arch leak was a steady leak too.

 

[Scamper]

Might as well just throw a S/C on it while I'm in there.

Yeah, you should! I was too to do mine; didn't have the help or the tools. Thoughts of the starter method whipping that breaker and pipe around made me cringe. So I wimped out and had the dealer do the pulley for me.

 

[robbie]

Hey Dan, every 1FZ engine I have done has had Keyed drive gears. Just my experence so far. Maybe you have a special one on your truck. Later robbie

 

[alia176]

Todd,

Let me know when you're planning on doing this. Should be a good learning experience!

Thanks.

Ali

 

[cruiserdan]

Hey Dan, every 1FZ engine I have done has had Keyed drive gears. Just my experence so far. Maybe you have a special one on your truck. Later robbie

Not exactly, the crank pulley and the timing sprocket are keyed. The oil pump drive gear is not.

 

[Gumby]

Turned out to be not such an easy job, but worth doing. I broke two 1/2 breaker bars and a 3/4" drive 1-3/16 Snap-On socket before I pulled the radiator. Then I had to heat the bolt to get it with the impact. I probably could have gotten it out with the heat and a breaker bar, but I was trying not to heat the balancer at first, and later I had no breaker bar.
Somebody at Toyota needs to be beaten with a control arm for mounting the radiator the way they did. I pulled the grill, headlights, marker lights, and battery box to get three of the four bolts holding the radiator frame to the core support. I probably didn't need to pull the headlights, but they still had an inch of water in each from the trip to the Cliffs over a month ago and algea was growing. :whoops:
Once the pulley was off it was a job. Replacing the alt belt is much easier with the radiator out. Best of all it doesn't leak anymore. I do think that's the first non-wheeling related repair I've had to do that wasn't maintenance related in 126,000 miles. Cost me about $12 for the seal. Who said these rigs were expensive to own?

 

[Scamper]

...plus two breaker bars and a Snap-On socket. :whoops:

 

[Gumby]

With a life time warranty... now that my truck can take me to the store to get them replaced.

 

[Scamper]

Yeah...yer a lucky bastid to own them

 

[scottm]

So after the terror of reading CDan's posts, this seems pretty simple. My drip sounds like Todd's, the spray pattern around the crank pulley seems to indicate front main seal. I can't find much help in the FSM, but my Haynes has a good pic and prodedure. It mentions cutting the lip of the seal to help get it out, did you have any trouble getting it out?

I have a 3/4-drive ratchet, 1"-drive breaker bar, and a 12-pt Craftsman 1-3/16 socket. I'd better locate a better socket. I've twisted off a few bolts with the big wrenches, I'd rather bend a smaller one, that'd be a very bad bolt to snap. Is there anywhere to spray penetrating oil?

I can fab a pulley holder, does anyone happen to know what size threaded holes are in the pulley?

Did you need a puller to get the pulley off? I'd hate to get this far and have to pull the radiator for this.

 

[Gumby]

No puller needed. Just wiggle the pulley off. You may need to get a small prybar behind and work it from one side to the other.
It would be a really hard bolt to snap. It's a big 'un.
Penitrating oil would help, especially in the rust belt.
No need to cut the seal. I just hooked a seal puller behind it and it came out like butta.