Front crank bolt stuck - help? (1 Viewer)

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scottm

scottm

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Mar 27, 2003
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Below the Mackinac bridge
I tried holding the pulley with hardened bolts threaded into the pulley, they bent. Tried a big crowbar between the socket (greased) and the pulley's internal lugs, the crowbar bent. Tried the starter trick, didn't loosen. Heated the bolt head and tried again, burned the starter contacts. Found a thick, short prybar, broke the tip off, then broke an internal threaded lug out of the pulley. I smelled hot rubber this last time I heated the bolt, the seal may be completley trashed now, so I think I'm past the point of putting it back together. I don't want to take out the radiator, too complicated with the A/C and tranny cooling lines. I suspect it wouldn't go back together easily.

Is there any other way to hold the crank, like at the flywheel?

How much oil will spew out if I did melt the seal?

I need to drive this to Chicago tomorrow.

Happy New Year.
 
Last edited:
Scott,

There is an inspection cover on the front of the trans bell housing that can be removed to get at the flexplate. Unfortunately, it is very hard to lock up with a tire iron or something since you can't get straight on the teeth. Also, the starter can be removed and you can get to the teeth that way.
In your situation now, if the starter still works, I think that would still be the best way to get the bolt loose. The trick is not to have the breaker bar up against the frame. It needs to be back a little in order to get some momentum from the engine turning. This is also why it is so dangerous. Sometimes, depending on the position of the pistons, it is harder for the engine to start to crank. Just needs to be turned a little and try to bang it again.
Good luck.

Bill
 
The starter is likely your only option. I respectfully dis-agree with Bill regarding the postion of the breaker bar. I feel that it shoud be snug-ish against the inner edge of the RH frame rail. I fully agree and stress the danger associated with this method but it DOES work and your only other is to gain access to the front of the engine so that you can use a powerful impact wrench.


DO NOT use 1/2 inch drive components for the starter-bump method. THEY WILL BREAK.

I ask you to trust me on this as I have personal experience and I know of at least one other breakage.


Good luck,

D-
 
Oh,


It is right-hand threads by the way........
 
Given that the short cuts have failed and the damage done so far, I think the logical next step is to remove radiator and anything else necessary and use a properly large impact wrench to do the deed.
 
Success!

New battery, fully charged, and new starter contacts. It still took two hits to break it loose, wow. I spun the starter between attempts so I wouldn't weld the new contacts together, hope this didn't pit them too bad. I made a pulley holder at the shop, but it was too wide to fit between the water pump and AC compressor. It may help to tighten. Now on to the seal, hopefully no more surprises. Thanks for the advise!
 
I am happy to hear that you got that thing off.


Do remember that one reason that the bolt is torqued to 300+ lb-ft is because the gear that drives the oil pump is not keyed. It is held in place by pressure only.
 
cruiserdan said:
I am happy to hear that you got that thing off.


Do remember that one reason that the bolt is torqued to 300+ lb-ft is because the gear that drives the oil pump is not keyed. It is held in place by pressure only.
Click to expand...

With that said how does a smart shopper go about achieving the necessary 300+ lb-ft of torque?
 
You will need an approiate torque wrench, usually a 3/4 inch drive, that will reach the 304 lb-ft value. You will also need a chain-wrench to secure the pulley during the tightening sequence.

D-
 
200lb person standing on 1.5' breaker bar, or 150lb person standing on 2' breaker bar, etc.
 
cruiserdan said:
DO NOT use 1/2 inch drive components for the starter-bump method. THEY WILL BREAK.

I ask you to trust me on this as I have personal experience and I know of at least one other breakage.


Good luck,

D-
Click to expand...

I broke two 1/2 inch breaker bars on mine. One with the starter method and one with brute force. The impact only did it when I put heat to it. I only did that because I was replacing the front seal.
 
cruiserman said:
200lb person standing on 1.5' breaker bar, or 150lb person standing on 2' breaker bar, etc.
Click to expand...

How about a 350# person? do I just stand on the socket :flipoff2:
 
I ended up making a tool after all, braced it with some wood, several feet of cheater on the 3/4" drive. I'm sure I got 300# of torque.
Cranktool.jpg
Toolbraced.jpg
 
Scott, I wouldn't assume that you have 304 ft/lbs.
Go to a Semi repair shop and MAKE SURE its 304 ft/lbs.
Other than the BIG torque wrench I used from work, has anyone found a retail sorce for the BIG torque wrench?
I don't want to have to work where I work at for ever :D

Removing the nut with a 3/4" braker bar requires a long pipe on the end of it.
Once you start bending the 3/4" braker bar, the nut will turn free.
 
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