front coil spring 40 Q's...ride quality? height? (1 Viewer)

[dohcdelsol93]

this really isn't hard core...unless you consider taking an early fj40 and doing 70mph...one handed with a cup of juice in your cup holder....on your daily commute 20 miles a day hardcore


I'm not (re)building my 40 for off road...i'm building her for on road ability since that's where my DD spends most of her time yet trying not to lose her off road ability. Comfort is key in this build

i've lined up an fj60 frame

i've lined up some fj80 axles (unlocked)

I plan on cutting down the fj60 frame so the wheel base is 2-3 inches longer than that of the stock fj40

I'll be using 60 rear leafs

I'll be using the fj80 coil springs up front.

I want to run 35" tires.

I want to use all the factory fj80 stuff up front...coils under the front of a 40.

To run 35" tires should i use a 4" lift kit, 60 in the back 80 lift coil in the front

or should I SOA in the back and 4" lift coils in the front? using factory fj60/62 springs

and can i SOA without needing to add anti warp bars or should those be added just for kicks/just in case?

I'd like to retain as much of the oem 40 flex as i can...yet make the ride in the 40 less comparable to being pushed down a gravel drive in a shopping cart. I love to wheel the 40, but on really rocky ground, she just beats you to death, you literally wake up sore the next day. This is on pretty new OME suspension.

The cut and turn will be no issue with the amount of work i'm doing at this point

I'm pretty much building the frame, restoring as i go and I'll have a fully restored frame and new/rebuilt drive train to throw my fj40 tub on once i'm done.

I'll be adapting the fj80 brake booster and master to the fj40 tub

I'll be using the fj60 steering box with modified hysteer arm to run the 80 steering linkage

For tranny i'll be using either an manual shift 4l80e or 700r4 matched to my 3 speed case. I'll be keeping the PTO gear box IF possible...i think i can retain it but we will see.

The engine will be a rebuilt GM 6.2 diesel with added turbo. A diesel built for economy...and a turbo to give me a skinny pedal economy override

I'll keep the factory 4:10 gears, i want the hwy rpms to be sub 2K. MPG is another big goal in this build.

I'll probably be running a 1-2" body lift to clear the turbo and tranny.

I'm thinking about installing a GM column with the shifter on the tree

I'm also thinking about using two pull levers to have the use of both the 80 rear wheel parking brake and my TC parking brake. I do a lot of towing and i've found most land cruiser parking brakes suck when you are launching a boat at the ramp....maybe with two it will be a little less of a suck

Another opinion I'd like to have is wheels. I know i need to go to 16" plus wheels. I'd like to have as much of a neg offset as possible to tuck that wide axle back under my rig.

I'd really like to run stock yota wheels, maybe FJC wheels. my plan is 35x12.5 If you guys have run this set up let me know what you'd recommend for offset. If my intended lift options are not enough to clear these tires without minimum rear fender well trimming definitely chime in!!

I'm trying to get my shopping list together to start buying parts...but eliminate the common cruiser mistake of buying parts and then realizing...oh i need to do it this way... so any/all help/opinions is welcome.

Thanks guys!!

 

[Gumby]

I run 38s on my pig with no chopping. No need to go with lift springs when you can place the buckets any place you want. 3 link with a pan hard works well, although for a driver the factory radius arms would be easy. Still need a panhard. I've had zero issues using factory 80 series bushings on all my links. They flex great, have lasted and are quiet and tight.

80 parking brakes suck, especially if you get them wet. Park will be very helpfull.

If you are going 6.2, and I would gouge my eyes out with a spork before doing that again, I would put a hydro boost in there. It fits well and has gobs of stopping power without messing with GMs crappy vacuum pump.

4L80e will be far happier behind the 6.2 than a 4l60/700r4, but will need a controller, either aftermarket or from a 6.5l. Th400 is way easier, but no OD.

GM columns are OK, but stay away from the Swiss Army knife-do everything stalk. It's a giant pain to get the wipers to work and the wires break a lot.

Absolutely anti-wrap.

4" lift springs will be stiff. Soa will be tall. Low is the best for on and off road. Go as low as you can.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

this really isn't hard core...unless you consider taking an early fj40 and doing 70mph...one handed with a cup of juice in your cup holder....on your daily commute 20 miles a day hardcore


I'm not (re)building my 40 for off road...i'm building her for on road ability since that's where my DD spends most of her time yet trying not to lose her off road ability. Comfort is key in this build

If its just going to be a road machine, why bother with a solid front axle at all? You're going to spend alot of time and effort getting the geometries of a linked suspension correct so that it handles well at 70mph, track properly, and your juice cup doesn't get rattled out of the holder.

IIRC the 6.2 diesel is HEAVY and LOUD. To combat the LOUD you're going to want to install a whole bunch of sound insulation. Which makes things heavier (weight is not on your side for fuel economy).

Why not just use a 3.4 or 4.0 from a tacoma chassis? IF you want you can add a supercharger to either motor for happy pedal. The Automatics (A340 and A750) in those rigs are bulletproof. I don't think that you're going to get significantly better gas mileage out of a 6.2 diesel w/ the additional weight from the motor and sound insulation than you would from a gas motor that is half the displacement, especially with 35's and the brick-like aerodynamics of an FJ40.

I've often thought about getting a wrecked taco or tundra to put a quad cab FJ45 body on.

Of course, this is all my silly ass-ed opinion on the matter.
Its your truck, do what you want. I will watch the build thread.

 

[handcannon]

I'll be watching your build as it is close to what my dream is.

What I've come up with so far: 6.2 diesel, ranger OD, FJ60 four speed, 203 doubler/four speed FJ40 transfer case, 3.73 gears from a FJ60. With this combo I should have the 6.2 at about 1800 to 2000 RPM at 60+ MPH and my current 32/11.50/15 tires. I may end up going to a larger tire. With the 6.2 and 6.5 diesel it's about your highway RPM.

I already have all the above parts. I just need clutch parts, exhaust manifolds, a warm and dry place to work in the winter. So, your build is of extreme interest to me.

Don

 

[dohcdelsol93]

this will be used off road...and for towing...hince the 6.2 with turbo added. I frequently tow a catalina 22 and venture 21

the 6.2 is about 150lbs more than the 2f so weight will be very little issue considering that most have more weight than that in a winch/arb and AC componets.

the smaller taco engines will just be too small and i like diesels...i also have more WMO thani know what to do with so the alternative fuel ability is a very huger perk...along with the torque of a v8.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

silly question...what is a pan hard?

i'm getting two 6.2 blocks...delieverd to my shop this week!!!

 

[FF LC FREAK]

pan hard bar = part of the suspension. It locates the front axle side to side.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

as for the GM column i'm keeping it simple...i will only be using it for the shifter.

The ignition switch, wiper switch and headlights will all remain dash mounted.

I want the shifter to stay on the column for the front bench love!!!

and i think the dual parking brakes will be sweet!!!

if i go with the 4l80e i think i want to put the manual conversion kit in it...from trans-go.

being that only my brakes will operate (and vac for tranny shifter) will operate off of the stock GM engine built vac pump will it no give sufficient vaccume?

I'd rather avoid price hydro boost...

if the engine supplied vac pump is in adequate wouldn't something like an isuzu alternator with built in vac pump be a cheaper solution?

and I had the ranger OD....i didn't so much like it. With a GM bellhousing it didn't give me good room for the LC slave.

Perhaps had i known that a 1968 Checker Marathon I6 clutch was an exact match for SBC to LC tranny conversions I would have been better off with the set up.

To me it also gave a lot of unneeded slop to an already complicated drive train.

It whined...but not as bad as a LC 3 speed.

as soon as i can get my buddy to deliver the 60 frame and find a ride from raligh to g-vegas for my 80 axles this build will begin...Gabe if your watching this...where's my frame dude??? lol

Get your 60 over here so we can rebuild some knuckles!!! and get me a frame

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I will be adding sound dampening to this engine bay...not really for the sound but for heat barrier...i could bake a ham in the floorboards of this 40 with my current SBC set up. I'm adding the body lift so i can dyno matt the entire engine bay side fire wall.

I'll be putting thick barn stall style rubber mat cut to fit the floor boards inside the rig as well. I have it in the bed/rear of the cruiser and love it

I've never heard a 6.2 running but i have heard the 6.5. much quieter than the cummins or isuzu 4bd series motors.

 

[handcannon]

I've never heard a 6.2 running but i have heard the 6.5. much quieter than the cummins or isuzu 4bd series motors.

No real difference in sound since they are the same basic motor. The only difference is in the bore.

Don

 

[mookie]

have you thought any about putting a IFS or TTB setup in the front of it? should be able to find a appropriate junkyard donor pretty cheap

 

[Fast Eddy]

If you're starting with an 80 frame and axles, and not really trying to make it an offroad monster, I'd just shorten the frame (look at project x2 thread), and use as many of the stock parts as possible. Keep the wheelbase long for towing. 110"?

The 4l80 is the way to go as long as you pony up for the right controller, or convert it to a manual valve body. D'Animal is doing one right now. A 700r4/4l60 would work, but only for 120k miles, then it will need a $2500 replacement. The 4l80 in my tow rig is over 190k and works like new.

I like a 6.2 td, but if you didn't already buy it, why not a '93 6.5 td with the mechanical FI pump? Seems like a no-brainer unless you've already got the 6.2 in your shop. I daily-drove my tow rig for years, as did my wife. They are not loud at all, and especially not when compared to a Cummins.

I would not consider a three-speed t-case for this application. They are loud and weak compared to a split case. Junk the t-case e-brake and add a mico line lock for the boat ramp. I wouldn't be stuck on the PTO either. The shear pins will drive you crazy. Get an 8274 and be done with it for life.

 

[Gumby]

have you thought any about putting a IFS or TTB setup in the front of it? should be able to find a appropriate junkyard donor pretty cheap

Did you really just suggest he put a twin traction beam on a vehicle?

 

[aroising]

a 6.5 fits in a 40.......but barely. I like your idea on the build though. I ran the fj80 axles front and rear with the stock coils and radius arms. I hope to have her started in the next few weeks. I'll let you know how she drives.

 

[TigBits]

If its only for road use, ever consider an IFS chassis

 

[mookie]

Did you really just suggest he put a twin traction beam on a vehicle?

TTB is badass if you do it right