Front Brake Overhaul

[77mustard40]

C is in Idaho for the week so I decided to replace the front brakes. I haven't felt the front were providing stopping force even after bleeding so I ordered the full complement from Autozone; calipers, pads, rotors and hardware all for under $200.



Pulled the PS caliper and it looked like crap. Boots were toast and the pistons rusty and difficult to move.



Set out after the hub to pull the rotor and this is where I am now...




Looks like I have to pull the big nut like I'm going into the birf, does this look right? Never been into the axle before and the FSM was less than clear. Am I headed in the right direction? Kalin is going to bring a big socket to the office tomorrow, 54 I think. Looks like I can pull the rotor once that is removed, correct?

 

[davegonz]

Yeah, you have to pull that off to get to the rotor that's bolted to the hub. Let me know if you need the big socket. I'm sure one of your fellow Shoal Creek peeps will have one as well.

Don't throw the rotors away. I'm sure they're in better shape than the ones on my 40.

 

[Lake Rat]

You will have to bend the little star washer tabs back abit, the front nut is the tightest one, once youy get that one off and the star washer (it slides off), the inner nut should only be about finger tight. FSM says the inner nut should be about 6ft/lbs of torque (finger tight). The rotor should come off then. To get the grease seal out of the back side, I take out the outer bearing, put the rotor back on, then one of the nuts, then pull hard and the seal will pop out along with the bigger inner bearing. Easier than fighting it with a seal removal tool or using something else to take it out on a bench..

 

[77mustard40]

You will have to bend the little star washer tabs back abit, the front nut is the tightest one, once youy get that one off and the star washer (it slides off), the inner nut should only be about finger tight. FSM says the inner nut should be about 6ft/lbs of torque (finger tight). The rotor should come off then. To get the grease seal out of the back side, I take out the outer bearing, put the rotor back on, then one of the nuts, then pull hard and the seal will pop out along with the bigger inner bearing. Easier than fighting it with a seal removal tool or using something else to take it out on a bench..

Thanks WL. What's the best way to anchor the axle shaft from turning

 

[Unoman]

It shouldn't take too much muscle to get that big nut off...as long as those tabs are bent back out of the way. You could always put it into 4WD with the transmission in gear.

 

[Lake Rat]

Thanks WL. What's the best way to anchor the axle shaft from turning

You shouldn't have to worry about that as the axle spins inside the spindle (where the nuts screw on). But if you need to keep it from spinning, see if a bolt will thread into the hole on the end of your (axle) shaft...

 

[tucker74]

Kelly,

I've got a 54mm socket if you need it, the nut threads on the spindle so you don't need to hold anything. Bend back tabs, remove outer nut, remove lock star, remove inner nut, then pull off the whole hub/rotor assembly. The harder part is setting the correct bearing pre-load when you put it back on

Tucker

BTW - paint the calipers (even if clear), mine went from looking like yours to surface rust in one rain

 

[FJsnoozer]

I rented mine from autozone. Well, I sent the future father in law to get it while I worked on everything else.

You can always put the tire back on to keep it from spinning. The real PIA is separating the hub from the rotor if your is siezed like mine was. You will need a press, or you can get creative like I did and tighten bolts in form the backside to use them to press the two pieces apart.

 

[77mustard40]

Kelly,

I've got a 54mm socket if you need it, the nut threads on the spindle so you don't need to hold anything. Bend back tabs, remove outer nut, remove lock star, remove inner nut, then pull off the whole hub/rotor assembly. The harder part is setting the correct bearing pre-load when you put it back on

Tucker

BTW - paint the calipers (even if clear), mine went from looking like yours to surface rust in one rain

Kalin forgot the 54 so I may call to come bt

 

[77mustard40]

You will have to bend the little star washer tabs back abit, the front nut is the tightest one, once youy get that one off and the star washer (it slides off), the inner nut should only be about finger tight. FSM says the inner nut should be about 6ft/lbs of torque (finger tight). The rotor should come off then. To get the grease seal out of the back side, I take out the outer bearing, put the rotor back on, then one of the nuts, then pull hard and the seal will pop out along with the bigger inner bearing. Easier than fighting it with a seal removal tool or using something else to take it out on a bench..

Thanks WL, seal and bearing came right out with a pull.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Pulling the hub and rotor apart and putting back togeather is easy if you use a hammer drill to tap it on and off. Dont reuse the star washers. Mike

 

[77mustard40]

Pulling the hub and rotor apart and putting back togeather is easy if you use a hammer drill to tap it on and off. Dont reuse the star washers. Mike

You mean bfh, breaker bar and chisel.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Thats what I used to use, until I tried my hammer drill. Mike

 

[donny paradise]

Hammer Drill

 

[davegonz]

Do you mean rotary hammer with a chisel point?

 

[77mustard40]

Calipers painted




Koyo bearings cleaned up, how can I assess their condition?

 

[77mustard40]

First rotor mounted in only one beer. Need to pick up the pace.

 

[77mustard40]

Finally have the PS done, we will see if I get better with the other side.

 

[davegonz]

Sexy, now get some Aisin hubs

 

[77mustard40]

Sexy, now get some Aisin hubs

Yah I missed some in the classified section a couple weeks back, just was allocating $'s elsewhere in my head