Preparing to replace current OME 2-3” Spring Kit with same lift height. Obviously steel surpasses aluminum but what degree option is recommended 2.0 - 2.5 - 3.0 - 4.0? Are there any other characteristics that places one shim over the other?
Front axle SHIM KIT (FJ62) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 88Retired62
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Consensus here is to use the 4 degree shims for most off the shelf spring kits, although I haven't dug in to the science of it. It is what I use and it has been an improvement in tracking and steering.
I've recently gone through a lot of my front end to improve the steering; rebuilding knuckles with fresh fasteners especially wheel bearing locknuts and washers, replacing worn steering shaft, setting alignment, new steering stabilizer.
The last item was adding 4 degree shims and while not a dramatic improvement it was noticeable. FJ60 tracks smoother without twitchiness. This is with an OME heavy lift.
Use steel shims, I bought these from Valley Hybrids, plus extended center pins. Since you're replacing your suspension adding in the shims will be easy. Get a couple of large C-clamps to hold the spring pack while removing the center pin when you go to add the shim.
bcsteel
SILVER Star
I concur, same lift. 4° shims. Waaaaay better steering. And as above clamp your spring pack. Longer center pins etc….
100% stay away from the cast aluminum shims. When I swapped the leaf springs on my truck, I pulled out some very crusty old aluminum ones that were rotting away - they were turning to dust in some parts and crumbling into chunks in other areas. If they continued to do that they would have fallen out and that makes the u-bolts loose very suddenly. No bueno. They were probably a few months away from being dangerous.
WFO and Warrior Products are both good. Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Brothers and Cruiser Outfitters both carry quality stuff - calling either to check stock is a good idea. As mentioned above get longer centering pins. Best bet on the shim degree is to measure the angles of your front transfer case flange, front diff flange, and your knuckle and do the math. I think stock caster was 1-2 degrees positive. With a 2-3" lift maybe 1-4 degrees positive would be good. For big lifts I think the suggestion is even more than that. It may take some trial and error.
On my previous 60 with a standard OME heavy lift I did not use shims and felt like the truck drove and tracked great. I think caster was about 2 degrees positive. On my current 60 with 5" of lift and a shackle reversal ... not so much, it needs shims. I've been experimenting and I'm thinking 4-5 degrees is going to do it on this one. Whole different ballgame there with how you shim it though.
WFO and Warrior Products are both good. Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Brothers and Cruiser Outfitters both carry quality stuff - calling either to check stock is a good idea. As mentioned above get longer centering pins. Best bet on the shim degree is to measure the angles of your front transfer case flange, front diff flange, and your knuckle and do the math. I think stock caster was 1-2 degrees positive. With a 2-3" lift maybe 1-4 degrees positive would be good. For big lifts I think the suggestion is even more than that. It may take some trial and error.
On my previous 60 with a standard OME heavy lift I did not use shims and felt like the truck drove and tracked great. I think caster was about 2 degrees positive. On my current 60 with 5" of lift and a shackle reversal ... not so much, it needs shims. I've been experimenting and I'm thinking 4-5 degrees is going to do it on this one. Whole different ballgame there with how you shim it though.
