Fridge (and accessory) recommendations
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I have these exact pieces. You don't need anything more than what you have for this setup to work great, if you want to prove it to yourself before upgrading anything more.
Just run a 12V extension from the cigarette lighter ports up front. The Yeti 5/10A charging cable, likely only able to work at 5A (because of voltage drop), will work just fine to keep up on road trips.
Lots of options to up the charge rate, but honestly it's not really necessary for most overlanding trips where there's lots of driving time.
"Trying to charge the ecoflow off of the built in inverter is a no go. The inverter trips so keep that in mind."
Can you explain this ^ a bit more? I was thinking i could pair an Eco Flow River 2 Pro (768WH) and a Dometic CFX3 35 and then use the rear AC outlet to charge the battery while i drive and power the cooler with the Ecoflow... What issues would i have with that approach?
The rear AC dosent have enough juice to charge my ecoflow Delta 2.
I can't remember the minimum power draw needed but my 2016 LC dosent have it..
My wife's 4runner on the other hand has enough so we can charge it in her vehicle..
I may pickup a delta 2 battery pack to pair with it to double my time..
My Delta 2 will power my Engel MT45 for a solid 3+ days for what it's worth
I can't remember the minimum power draw needed but my 2016 LC dosent have it..
My wife's 4runner on the other hand has enough so we can charge it in her vehicle..
I may pickup a delta 2 battery pack to pair with it to double my time..
My Delta 2 will power my Engel MT45 for a solid 3+ days for what it's worth
Wow. I’m impressed that the 4Runner’s inverter can handle that load. I wouldn’t think it could handle more than 8 amps. I’m jealous.
But there are lots of discussions on how to charge a Ecoflow delta 2 via our 200’s.
The video on the first post here is worth watching:
It is possible to run a larger gauge wire ( 2 ga?) back to the inverter location, and put in a larger capacity inverter. But most at that point would be opting for a fixed battery install and all the stuff that goes with that. Juice probably not worth the squeeze to install a fixed inverter when there is so much more flexibility in a setup that would scale.
My tiny power bank )380 wh) can recharge on the stock inverter which is limited around 8 to 10 amp. And that little bank will also run my 26qt small fridge for about 30 hours. Fine for a weekend where there is driving during the day.
My tiny power bank )380 wh) can recharge on the stock inverter which is limited around 8 to 10 amp. And that little bank will also run my 26qt small fridge for about 30 hours. Fine for a weekend where there is driving during the day.
There's also this... and an 800w version as well.Wow. I’m impressed that the 4Runner’s inverter can handle that load. I wouldn’t think it could handle more than 8 amps. I’m jealous.
But there are lots of discussions on how to charge a Ecoflow delta 2 via our 200’s.
The video on the first post here is worth watching:
I came across this as well today - but also found some info about negative impact on the alternator when the vehicle is idling… all these details push back toward a yeti with frozen water bottles for ice to avoid water in the cooler… it works in Moab for a few day but not much longer…
IMO inverting 12v DC up to 120v AC, then rectifying back down to 12v DC to charge a battery pack, then inverting the 12v DC battery back up to 120v AC to run a fridge which is probably rectifying back down to 12v DC internally, is an extremely inefficient system. Each conversion has losses that compound the inefficiency. Better to keep everything at the base 12v DC.
I have a second group 34/78 battery under the hood, out of the way. The NL fridge runs at 12V DC internally, so no conversion required. No regrets, and no heavy power bank in the way inside the cabin.
I will never go back to putting ice in a cooler.
I have a second group 34/78 battery under the hood, out of the way. The NL fridge runs at 12V DC internally, so no conversion required. No regrets, and no heavy power bank in the way inside the cabin.
I will never go back to putting ice in a cooler.
Ah yeah! I had forgotten about that.
In most set-ups, it’s not being converted up to 120 AC. Just the DC from the alternator/battery is having the voltage increased.
So it’s a couple less steps than you list. But I still agree with your point. It can get cumbersome.
That being said I too have a second battery up front. But this brings its own set of complications. I actually consider having mine removed since I’m happy with managing the ecoflow in the cargo area on the few days when I’m camping and not driving for long enough not to fully charge the ecoflow directly with the 12v from the alternator.
To each his own….
Also… I 100% agree with your final point. I too will never go back to a cooler.
UPR LC
GOLD Star
If a person wants to add a fridge, the portable power station is a good option to start out. The portable power station can be used for more than just in the car, so it is not a sunk car-only cost.
Charging by a cigarette lighter plug at 8-10 amps 12v works to keep the battery charging while driving. yes it takes a long time to charge, but it does work.
A 150W portable solar panel can be deployed when stopped (at camp) and it will continue to charge or at least maintain the fridge power needs so you don't draw down the battery during daytime hours.
That would be the least-effort way to get a fridge installed (powerwise).
There are drawbacks to this method, but it is a good starter option.
Charging by a cigarette lighter plug at 8-10 amps 12v works to keep the battery charging while driving. yes it takes a long time to charge, but it does work.
A 150W portable solar panel can be deployed when stopped (at camp) and it will continue to charge or at least maintain the fridge power needs so you don't draw down the battery during daytime hours.
That would be the least-effort way to get a fridge installed (powerwise).
There are drawbacks to this method, but it is a good starter option.
What about using the 115V AC outlet behind the 3rd seat vs the 12V lighter socket? Everything I’ve read about the Dometic CFX says it pulls about 50W and the 200 series user manual says that the rear outlet is good for up to 100W? But I guess the Ecoflow pulls close to 100Ws? Is that the issue? Can I program the EcoFlow (River 2 Pro) to max the charging pull to a reasonable 750W? To keep it under the max to avoid overheating the outlet?
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Julian73
SILVER Star
Agree, so many conversion steps each at 93% down to 85% efficiencies.
I run a Dometic CFX3 55iM direct wired with dedicated 10 AWG line from eng bay mounted Aux battery to an ARB threaded Cig Plug (with a hi amp switch in circuit). I also run a backup 10AWG line from starter battery to the same switch. Thus if Aux Battery (charged by a DC-DC and Solar panel) is dead for whatever reason I can still power the fridge. Additionally in case of a wiring failure I have another ARB threaded receptacle along with a Anderson PowerPole 45 receptacle on left & right side of cargo bay feed off "switched" power from a 2AWG lead from my Aux battery, switched in that this power supply is feed through a 125Amp relay controlled by my SwitchPros to be able to cut power to the rear. I don't want to lose food from minor electrical issues.
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UPR LC
GOLD Star
I do not believe you would want to run the fridge directly from the car's cigarette lighter or AC plug because both of those are only powered on when the car is ON/running. You want the fridge to always have power (or at least I do).
In my case, I actually ran a dedicated 8 AWG wire from the starting battery to the rear cargo area and installed a Bluesea 3-port panel with switch/breaker, that has 2 cigarette sockets and a USB socket. This panel is always-ON since it is wired directly to my starter battery.
In my case, I can run the fridge directly from my added always-on cigarette socket and set the low voltage cutoff in the Dometic App so it protects the starter battery.
The better setup for me is to add my Ecoflow Delta 2 in the mix as a second battery to run my fridge and starlink.
To answer your question, I would have to go into my Ecoflow App and see if it can turn down the AC charging below 100W, I don't know off the top of my head.
One other thing to throw out there, I do not believe the factory inverter is a pure sine wave inverter. Electronics like to have a pure sine wave inverter for "cleaner" power, I am not sure if the Ecoflow would have issues charging off a modified sine wave inverter. If it were me, I would just use the 12v cigarette lighter to charge the Ecoflow at close to 100W.
Julian73
SILVER Star
You are correct that the factory inverter is a crude non sine wave unit. It would probably screw with the electronics of the fridge controller along with, is probable not capable of sustained high wattage and again our goal is to maximize cooling with minimal battery drain. Most coolers will run off direct 12 VDC so why step up the car battery with inverter loses then get additional loses within the fridge as it steps the power back down to 12VDC to run its compressor.
My thinking was that the domestic would 100% run off the Ecoflow and I would charge the Ecoflow from the car battery only when it was running. So the 12V lighter socket solves the issue by being a cleaner source of power?
“Damn it Jim, I’m a doctor not an electrical engineer”
Seriously this looks like great info, but above my level of DIY abilities…. Where/who could I go to to get this done to my 200 series… it’s a very niche thing… maybe a RV place?
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UPR LC
GOLD Star
Yes, just power your ecoflow off the 12v cigarette lighter socket, it is the easiest, most electrically efficient, and safest for the electronics.
Try this config out first, then if you want a more robust setup you could always have someone wire a dedicated circuit.
Being in Vegas, I would recommend a race car (or desert race) shop that does wiring. Or at least they could recommend someone to you. I would be careful of just any lift-kit install shop, as they may not do a good job.
There is a shop in Reno, NV that has a good reputation for vehicle and offroad RV wiring, Zero Declination. If you are up for traveling.