Victron DC 12v to 30v | Fast charging to Ecoflow Delta (1 Viewer)

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I wanted to do faster charging on my Ecoflow. I installed a Victron DC 12v to DC 30v converter (Max 20 amp) and wired it in my 8 gang switch pod. The switch pod is rated for 60amps total. I put a 40 amp fuse where I wired the Victron to. The Ecoflow can only pull 15amp max at the charging port. I don't understand how it is blowing a 40-amp fuse.

I got it to work for several minutes then it'll blow the fuse. It was pulling 450 watts from the Victron.

I ran 8 AWG from the switch pod to the Victron, then to the ecoflow.

Posted a pic of the wiring I did.

I followed this video.


Here is my switch pod
Amazon product ASIN B0C3CNPQGR
Ecoflow.png
 
Alot of questions here.

Crucially, what is the voltage spec for the 8-gang switch box?
Chinese ratings are ... generous.

What else is plugged into the box and were they powered at the same time the fuses blew?

At where did you measure the 450 watt flow?
 
are you forgetting about the voltage difference? The current is not 15A everywhere in your circuit.

if the Ecoflow is really pulling 450W, you'd draw something like 450/12.6 = 36A from the (FLA?) battery plus losses in the converter. But those Victron DC - DCs get pretty hot so their efficiency must not be too good. That would likely be enough to get you around or over 40A in reality. Which could blow your fuse after a while.
 
Why is the gang switch even in the circuit?

I'd connect the DC-DC converter directly to the battery and put a 285 series breaker of appropriate ampacity in the DC+ next to the battery. Use the manual break/reset function on the breaker to turn off the converter when it isn't needed.
 
Alot of questions here.

Crucially, what is the voltage spec for the 8-gang switch box?
Chinese ratings are ... generous.

What else is plugged into the box and were they powered at the same time the fuses blew?

At where did you measure the 450 watt flow?
12-24v.
I got the measurement at the Ecoflow display.

I have my Baja design connected to the gang box. They were on when it blew the 30amp fuse.

are you forgetting about the voltage difference? The current is not 15A everywhere in your circuit.

if the Ecoflow is really pulling 450W, you'd draw something like 450/12.6 = 36A from the (FLA?) battery plus losses in the converter. But those Victron DC - DCs get pretty hot so their efficiency must not be too good. That would likely be enough to get you around or over 40A in reality. Which could blow your fuse after a while.
I only charge it when the vehicle is on, so the voltage is around 14ish. But I noticed the draw lowers to 380 watts after awhile. Probably due to the Victron getting hot.

I think I'm gonna step up to a 35amp fuse.

Why is the gang switch even in the circuit?

I'd connect the DC-DC converter directly to the battery and put a 285 series breaker of appropriate ampacity in the DC+ next to the battery. Use the manual break/reset function on the breaker to turn off the converter when it isn't needed.
Cause I needed to be able to switch it on and off inside the cabin. And I don't want to use a breaker as a switch.
 
Use a relay, take the load of the converter off the gang switch. Or perhaps a pair of them in parallel to get enough ampacity. If you need/want more than that then have a look at the Cole-Hersey constant duty solenoid switches or the superior Blue Sea Systems' L series contactors.

For infrequent use the breaker works just fine as a switch. For frequent use, yeah, not ideal.
 
I have been looking at doing something similar.
Plan is to run 6ga cable to the back of my 200series from Battery to the Victron 12-24volt 20amp converter. Then plug into the power station for fast charging.

The Victron unit does max out under load around 30amps at 24volts for surges. So at times I could be pulling 60amps at 12volts from alternator.
My concern is the impact on the alternator? Can a 200 series (2013 LX570) handle a sudden 60amp load?

I recently replaced my alternator around 160K miles and I do not want to replace it again anytime soon!
 
Surges are met more by the battery in the system than the alternator. Not to say that the alt won't ramp up it's output, just that the initial demand will be supplied by the battery.

Alternators don't live very long if they are always operated at or near their max rating. This is one good reason to upgrade the alternator if you're building a system that will or may ask that of the alternator. They are not 100% duty cycle devices. They can be, but automotive alternators aren't typically designed that way.
Be careful of alternators that offer increased output from the same physical size. Heat from inside them is the big killer of alternators and the OEM has a pretty good idea of how much power an alternator can long term reliably produce. I would look for the same alternator series used in a higher demand application (like an ambulance version or similar) as those will have likely the highest output that the design can sustain long term. Failing that, look to see if anyone has found an easy to swap-in higher output stock alternator. A domestic example of this that I happen to be rather familiar with; the '96 Bronco 5.8L alternator. The Bronco spec version puts out 95 amps, but the '96 3/4t E-250 Van with the same engine has a 130 amp alternator on it. The case is physically larger, but it is a bolt-on swap. Something similar with my '88 4rnnr 3.0L. I forget what the stock alternator output was, but the documented here swap 100 amp MR2 alt. almost bolted on (needs a little clearancing to fit).
Aftermarket companies can always get more out of your alternator, but for how long? Very much like an engine, start with a 100 amps and rebuild it to make 250 amps, just how long would you expect that 'engine' to last?

How long is the total circuit length? Seems like 6 ga. is getting close to allowing too much voltage drop IF the DC-DC converter is going to be at the rear of the vehicle.
 
I have been looking at doing something similar.
Plan is to run 6ga cable to the back of my 200series from Battery to the Victron 12-24volt 20amp converter. Then plug into the power station for fast charging.

The Victron unit does max out under load around 30amps at 24volts for surges. So at times I could be pulling 60amps at 12volts from alternator.
Is your alternator is 24V? I'd be surprised if it is.
Otherwise we're likely talking a max draw of 30ADC@12V.
That's alot over 20ft of 6ga cable. It can handle it in a limited fashion but don't make it habit.
And voltage drop will be significant. I bet 20% or so.
So total current draw by the Victron will be about 16.5 ADC.
Average roughly 13.2 ADC on a good day.
Still, shouldn't be an issue 98% of the time.
My concern is the impact on the alternator? Can a 200 series (2013 LX570) handle a sudden 60amp load?
Unlikely it will ever see that load w/a 12VDC alt.
So yes, your OEM alt will be fine.
I recently replaced my alternator around 160K miles and I do not want to replace it again anytime soon!
Do you know why you had to replace it the first time?
 

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