Fresh rebuild strange knock (1 Viewer)

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First-time poster as I am in trouble, haha—long-time lurker.

I got the motor back from the rebuild shop 1FZ-FE 96 with dizzy. It took 3-4 weeks to get it back in the car, waiting on some extra parts.

First fire today after doing all the usuals, ensuring timing was around the mark and oil priming, it cranked up and fired well. Then immediately started making a knocking rattle sound up the front down low. Oil pressure seems fine, maybe on the high side from what I can remember from the past.

After the first video, I removed all belts to check if it was not some stuffed idler or things related to that stuff but made no change, I also took out the power steering pump for a quick run to see if that was doing it as when doing the old extension bar to ear the sound sounded like it was coming either there or the oil pump.

Anyone have any thoughts on it or have had this? I poked around with my finger with the power steering pump out the way and didn't feel any metal bits, so hopefully, nothing dangerous yet.

 

ceylonfj40nut

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Without knowing what the shop rebuilt it is hard to diagnose. Did they do work on the bottom end (crank, replace pistons, main bearings)? I would take the truck to them to diagnose/ fix.
 
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Without knowing what the shop rebuilt it is hard to diagnose. Did they do work on the bottom end (crank, replace pistons, main bearings)? I would take the truck to them to diagnose/ fix.
Yeah for sure I will be, just thought maybe it was some thing obvious ha, but sure doesn't sound like it.

Here is the list of the works, which included a new crank.



 

ceylonfj40nut

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Did they use all OEM parts? They did a lot. This will be hard to diagnose. Best is to take it to them and ask them. Trailer it over. Do not drive it. Do you do the install into truck and start up or did they? If you did it, be mindful that they might “blame you”.
 
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Did they use all OEM parts? They did a lot. This will be hard to diagnose. Best is to take it to them and ask them. Trailer it over. Do not drive it. Do you do the install into truck and start up or did they? If you did it, be mindful that they might “blame you”.
Yeah, I am worried about something like that happening :(

They did all the machine and assembly work to long block spec, so head valve train/timing chain, crank pulley, water pump etc.

We did all the bolt-on accessories, exhaust, intake system, flex plate etc etc.
 
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Did they use all OEM parts?
Sorry missed this, I know the water pump isn't, but the whole timing cover with oil pump was a new OEM part and I know that comes assembled ready to go in, so chances are the sound isn't coming from the pump, unless its faulty.

Looks like a few non oem's like NASON timing chain kit and head bolts, unsure on bearings and other things.
 

ceylonfj40nut

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I'd make sure the harmonic balancer bolt is cranked down to it's ridiculously high torque spec
He has good oil pressure which would indicate it is tight.
 
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Was the engine assembled with the timing cover already installed when you received the engine back from the rebuilder?

With the rapid frequency of the loud ticking wondering if a damaged gear (tooth) could be the cause?? Oil pump gear?? Timing chain/sprocket??
 
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Was the engine assembled with the timing cover already installed when you received the engine back from the rebuilder?

With the rapid frequency of the loud ticking wondering if a damaged gear (tooth) could be the cause?? Oil pump gear?? Timing chain/sprocket??
Yep, all of that was set up. It was like a deluxe long block build where it was all done except the engine accessory fruit.

It's Monday here, so I will touch base with the shop.

I went through the parts list of all the bits they used, and it looks like the timing chain tensioner is a ratchet type that requires the engine to be rotated back to release the hook on installation. Maybe they missed this step, like so.

80 Series 1FZ Timing Chain Tensioner- Ratcheting, Modified (TCT-1) (absolute-wits-end.com)

I will buy an inspection camera today and see if the hook is still on and take pictures if it is. Unless the US trucks are different, I cant see it from the oil cap because half the fill hole is blocked by factory casting.
 

COYS

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No offense, but this reads like an odd duck of a commissioned engine job.

They seem to arbitrarily mix and match OEM parts with likely Chinese aftermarket parts? When they do mention Toyota in the parts sheet, they don’t even take care to reference the Toyota part number for clear accountability. They put quantity 24 for shims, but how the heck do they know what size shims and did they reuse any of the originals at all?

The noise could be a nick in the actual oil pump gear that meshes with the crank gear and steering pump gear. They all should be replaced with OEM new and handled with extra care. Unfortunately, to inspect/replace is a head off job.

A proper 1FZ-FE long block rebuild is a labor of love. There are no short cuts especially for those who don’t have the space, time or skill/will to go at it themselves. There are only a handful of folks, even in the economic powerhouse that is the USA, I’d trust to pay to do it. And they are slammed a year+ out minimum.

Good luck man. What a mess.
 
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May be rod knock as well. You can disable each cylinder one by one, either by disconnecting each injector or pulling each spark plug wire, and see if the noise goes away or lessens. The cylinder where it goes away has the bad bearing.
 

Dave 2000

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This would not be the first rebuild I have seen done where they say they have checked the rod ends, rod bearing 'crush' is critical as is a decent build lube, as above trailer it to the shop and see what they say.

Regards

Dave
 
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Looks really clean and well put together. They have good notes as well. However as COYs mentioned the mixing of Toyota and after market parts is not good. Looks like they didn’t even use a Toyota Oil cap. Either way I would start talking to the people you bought it from. Hopefully it’s something easy.
 

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