Frame off restoration: Treatment of screws, bolts and nuts?

[bikemaniac]

Hi,

I did a frame off of my car and now I have to assemble everything again. I have approx. 1000 small parts (bolts, screws, nuts, brackets etc) and they are partly rusty, partly greasy and some are almost like brand new. After a lot of thinking I decided not to clean and (electro)plate the parts and just assemble as is, since the job is humongous in terms of categorizing everything and the plater will only accept 1 big bucket with ALL parts.

Question: Once installed, how can I treat the parts with some sort of liquid, spray, wax, paint or grease? Does anyone know of a product which is suitable for treating the bolt heads only to avoid further corrosion but still not have a situation where everything attracts dirt and is greasy upon touch.

Lucas

 

[BILT4ME]

Fluid film sprayed liberally under the truck and inside frame rails and doors and rockers.

 

[Red Merle]

Or WoolWax.

I use anti-seize on every fastener after I soak them in acid and then repaint them the proper color. You can wipe away the excess on the outside to your preference, but your future self won't mind that the bolts come out easy the next time around.

 

[nigelsiam]

I am Woolwaxing this weekend. No way I am letting rust get to my 80!

 

[Kernal]

Personally I would have all the nuts, bolts, brackets and fasteners replated.
After all your hard work you don't want to reinstall crusty rusty bits.

You could try a different plater in the US:

Cadmium Plating | Fond du Lac, WI | Electro-Plating, Inc.

Electro-Plating, Inc. in Fond du Lac, WI specializes in cadmium plating, passivation of stainless steel, and chromate conversion coating on aluminum

www.electro-plating.com

He may not be so picky and can reproduce the original
plating.

There is a product, called COIL GUARD, designed to coat aluminum
fins of HVAC equipment used in salty environments (near the Ocean for example). I've used that to coat new nuts and bolts after they're installed to help slow down corrosion. Same idea as paint, just clear.

Either way, if you live in an area that uses salt or other corrosive chemicals
on the roads, the corrosion will come back over time. This is what keeps
junior members of the Navy (any) around the world busy; scraping and repainting the ship.

 

[Red Merle]

Personally I would have all the nuts, bolts, brackets and fasteners replated.
After all your hard work you don't want to reinstall crusty rusty bits.

You could try a different plater in the US:

Cadmium Plating | Fond du Lac, WI | Electro-Plating, Inc.

Electro-Plating, Inc. in Fond du Lac, WI specializes in cadmium plating, passivation of stainless steel, and chromate conversion coating on aluminum

www.electro-plating.com

He may not be so picky and can reproduce the original
plating.

There is a product, called COIL GUARD, designed to coat aluminum
fins of HVAC equipment used in salty environments (near the Ocean for example). I've used that to coat radiator fins as well as nuts and bolts after they're installed to help slow down corrosion. Same idea as paint, just clear.

Either way, if you live in an area that uses salt or other corrosive chemicals
on the roads, the corrosion will come back over time. This is what keeps
junior members of the Navy (any) around the world busy; scraping and repainting the ship.

I once saw Loverboy open and close with Workin' for the Weekend at the Fond du Lac County Fair. Big night...

I have also heard of this company. They do great work if you want to go that route.

Manitowoc and Sheboygan each have their own slight differences in the way that they butcher the English language, but this is pretty close to how people talk in Fondy.

 

[inkpot]

there used to be all kinds of Do It Yourself plating info on the FJ 40 forums

 

[1973Guppie]

a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean them up before install, then use anti seize on the threads. Finish it off with fluid film

 

[PDoyle]

Wits End has some bolt packages that are worth checking out.He has a rear door kit I have and love it. I bought some bolts off Ebay that I didn't like or use. The under carriage bolts should be replaced if you want to try to turn them again IMO. Like the bumper bolts.

 

[davidp14]

I just wanna see some pics!!

 

[NLXTACY]

The words “frame off” and using old hardware “as is” make absolutely no sense whatsoever. If you’ve gone this far why in the heck would you not cleanup/replace the hardware?!?!

 

[artech]

De-greasing can be done with gasoline, brake cleaner, or acetone. All are flammable and all can be dangerous, but use caution and take your time, and the process is really pretty easy.

Rust can be fully removed by electrolysis, just google 'electrolytic rust removal' for the process. Works wonders and is simple, cheap, safe, and the bath solution is not toxic. Easy to do at home or in the garage with some scrap metal, a plastic bucket, and a common automotive battery charger. An electrically conductive (and not stainless steel) wire basket or kitchen strainer will let you do small parts together in batches. It is time consuming but very easy to do and does not remove any good metal. Dip the parts and start the electricity before you go to work, by the time you come home it's all clean. Or let it run overnight, either way works. Scrub parts with a brush to get the residue off, dry them well, and they are ready for coating. Put the next batch of parts in the bath and go do something else. Super simple.

After removing the grease and rust ,any coating like moly, paint, or any other type of rust preventative can be applied by either tumbling and drying or spraying and maybe baking, depending on the coating. Anti-seize when reinstalling is always a good idea!

Finally, if you are doing a full frame-off restoration then redoing the hardware is really necessary. Reusing them as-is would be a real waste considering how much time and effort is spent in the rest of the process. Hope this helps.

 

[JeepinPete]

If you are not into a parts correct restore, McMaster Carr carries "ultra corrosion resistant" bolts, which I can attest first hand are what they claim. I would expect them to be less expensive than Toyota issue.

 

[Tools R Us]

a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean them up before install, ...

Do yourself a favor, get an ultrasonic cleaner, makes life much easier! A bit of detergent deals with most grime, if there is rust, oxalic acid (often sold as wood bleach) works, but often removes plating. Something with a heater, like this:

2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner

Amazing deals on this 2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[fjc-man]

A little NO-OX-ID on any fastener threads before assembly and I have no concern about it coming apart cleanly later.

 

[LINUS]

Overland Metric: JIS Bolt Kits & Hardware | Stainless & Carbon Steel

Introducing Overland Metric: Our business is Cruiser hardware After many years of supplying JIS bolt kits on Mud (as JIS Hardware), we've decided to expand the business and open a online store with what we hope will be valuable products & information for the entire Mud community. The new...

forum.ih8mud.com

I’d start here & despite the kits being 40 specific, they are JIS sized & there’s even a SS option over yellow-zinc carbon.

If he doesn’t have an 80 kit in the works, I know there’s a 60 hardware vendor, mentioned somewhere in thread - so an 80 isn’t like the possibility couldn’t exist.

Between the 40 & 60 kit vendors, they may know of a 80 kit.

HTH

 

[NLXTACY]

Overland Metric: JIS Bolt Kits & Hardware | Stainless & Carbon Steel

Introducing Overland Metric: Our business is Cruiser hardware After many years of supplying JIS bolt kits on Mud (as JIS Hardware), we've decided to expand the business and open a online store with what we hope will be valuable products & information for the entire Mud community. The new...

forum.ih8mud.com

I’d start here & despite the kits being 40 specific, they are JIS sized & there’s even a SS option over yellow-zinc carbon.

If he doesn’t have an 80 kit in the works, I know there’s a 60 hardware vendor, mentioned somewhere in thread - so an 80 isn’t like the possibility couldn’t exist.

Between the 40 & 60 kit vendors, they may know of a 80 kit.

HTH

ahem...

Interior - Stainless Hardware - Wits' End

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[LINUS]

ahem...

Interior - Stainless Hardware - Wits' End

absolute-wits-end.com

Egg on face......

In my defense, I intentionally stay off your site during salmon / boat season (I can only afford 1 mega-$$$ hobby at a time).

And I know I’d “wander” over to the turbo, and knowing me I could “rationalize” it in under 3 days.......

So I’m under a self-imposed ban on the WE site until about Halloween.

.....but now I know where to get 80 SS hardware (another solution I didn’t know of but now must have.....crap).