Frame ground clearance measurements (1 Viewer)

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Hello everybody, I picked up a project in progress a few weeks ago and I am checking the fit of installing a 4 link. The FJ40 is a 69 that came with a fully disassembled blasted and primed body that had all the rust repaired. It had a 350 short block that I sold to go with an LS. It also has an SM465, NP205, good front axle and a rear axle that had the diff centered but just tacked together. The rear axle will be scrapped for an explorer 8.8 with posi. The front spring and shackle mounting points were removed to have a shackle reversal installed. I also do not have the rear shackle hangers but do have the spring perches. With it being far from stock already and all that is missing for a leaf spring suspension and rear axle, I am looking into installing a 4 link system. I am modeling it in CAD but do not have a reference for the frame height.

I have been through the posts and see people sharing measurements to the rain gutter or points on the windshield but I would have to get gaskets and put the body together to use those dimensions. Does anybody have measurements to points on the frame they can share with a comment if its stock height or how much its lifted?

4Link Setup.PNG


20200826_123538.jpg
 
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I went through that and used the sheets to model and verify frame. I could not find anything about ground to frame.

I noted that one of the side view drawings had a datum line reference and thought it might be an axle center line that may help.
 

1911

chupacabra
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Does anybody have measurements to points on the frame they can share with a comment if its stock height or how much its lifted?

12/79-build 1980 FJ40, with 3" Alcan springs and old worn 33x10.5x15 BFG KM3 tires:

bottom of front frame rail to the ground: 2' 1"

bottom of rear frame rail to ground: 2' 2"
 
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I have an '82 with stock suspension (new) which I can measure if you're interested. It has no tub on it right now, but does have the engine in.
 
Joined
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12/79-build 1980 FJ40, with 3" Alcan springs and old worn 33x10.5x15 BFG KM3 tires:

bottom of front frame rail to the ground: 2' 1"

bottom of rear frame rail to ground: 2' 2"
This is perfect, thank you. I was going for 33's with 4" of lift. I will lower the frame in my model a little and design some adjustability into the build.
 
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I have an '82 with stock suspension (new) which I can measure if you're interested. It has no tub on it right now, but does have the engine in.
More info is always better if its not too much trouble. I am not in a hurry and have a couple responses from here and other places I can work off.
 

DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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Just for reference, my SOA rear, 3 link front crawler on 37's has a bottom of frame height of about 23.25". That is without top and with a full cage in. No spare, most front body panels missing. I don't know if that is is helpful or not, just my .02. I guess I should also ask, why are you wanting to run links? No judgement, just curious.
 
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I bought the project taken apart and rust repaired. I am missing most of the frame mounted steering components and factory spring and shackle brackets. The rear diff was centered and the ends are from some toyota truck with drum brakes and integrated parking brakes. The axle tubes and perches are just tacked together and would need to be inspected, straightened and finished. The previous owner had cut the tube brace by the transmission out, flipped it and mounted it as a transmission crossmember using sleeved poly bushings at the frame. This needs to be removed and a rigid crossmember added. I am going with a 6 liter ls and the added power I was going to add am anti wrap bar. I have a SM654 and NP205 and do not have driveshafts to fit.

With everything that needs to be reworked, I am at a point where I have to build a whole suspension. It would not be much more to go with a 3 or 4 link system. I would have a better ride and adjustability. I live in livermore and want to commute in it so it needs to be stable at 70 and handle well off road on the weekends.

Plus its been a while since I have had a project with no restrictions. I sold my 2016 Camaro SS commute car to start this project. There was not much that could be done to that. I am a mechanical engineer and designed the frame in the pics on a team as our senior design project. The auto industry was not hiring in 2008 when I graduated and I took a job in construction design. Part of the fun for me in this project is the design process.

FB_IMG_1554916161670.jpg


FB_IMG_1554916153470.jpg
 

DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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I bought the project taken apart and rust repaired. I am missing most of the frame mounted steering components and factory spring and shackle brackets. The rear diff was centered and the ends are from some toyota truck with drum brakes and integrated parking brakes. The axle tubes and perches are just tacked together and would need to be inspected, straightened and finished. The previous owner had cut the tube brace by the transmission out, flipped it and mounted it as a transmission crossmember using sleeved poly bushings at the frame. This needs to be removed and a rigid crossmember added. I am going with a 6 liter ls and the added power I was going to add am anti wrap bar. I have a SM654 and NP205 and do not have driveshafts to fit.

With everything that needs to be reworked, I am at a point where I have to build a whole suspension. It would not be much more to go with a 3 or 4 link system. I would have a better ride and adjustability. I live in livermore and want to commute in it so it needs to be stable at 70 and handle well off road on the weekends.

Plus its been a while since I have had a project with no restrictions. I sold my 2016 Camaro SS commute car to start this project. There was not much that could be done to that. I am a mechanical engineer and designed the frame in the pics on a team as our senior design project. The auto industry was not hiring in 2008 when I graduated and I took a job in construction design. Part of the fun for me in this project is the design process.

View attachment 2445005

View attachment 2445006

Links are great, but what are your plans for the car? DD? Are you wanting to go coils or coilovers? What are you looking for out of the links?
 
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Links are great, but what are your plans for the car? DD? Are you wanting to go coils or coilovers? What are you looking for out of the links?
Daily driver by either me or my wife. I will keep the body stock in appearance. I have not decided on coils or coilovers yet. I started reading about them last night and will look more when I see what kind of travel I can work with. What is your opinion?

What do you mean by what am I looking for with the links? If its suspension travel, I wont go to rock crawler level of articulation now as a dd but will see if it can be designed now to get there with minimal changes if I want to in the future.
 

DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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Daily driver by either me or my wife. I will keep the body stock in appearance. I have not decided on coils or coilovers yet. I started reading about them last night and will look more when I see what kind of travel I can work with. What is your opinion?

What do you mean by what am I looking for with the links? If its suspension travel, I wont go to rock crawler level of articulation now as a dd but will see if it can be designed now to get there with minimal changes if I want to in the future.

You should start looking at the disadvantages of links. I personally would not be running them for a DD. You will most likley need a good front and rear sway bar, and overall, a good link system is going to be over double the price of leafs. I would take leafs over links for DD, although they may not be the most comfortable. Also, 40s are pretty scary to drive fast with the really short wheel base. If you are linking it, keep it low and try to strech the wheel base some. I have a 78 on an OME 4" lift, previously on 33"s and I would probably never take it over 60mph. The rear end comes around really quickly, and the high COG makes them great at flipping.
 
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Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Messages
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Location
Livermore, CA
You should start looking at the disadvantages of links. I personally would not be running them for a DD. You will most likley need a good front and rear sway bar, and overall, a good link system is going to be over double the price of leafs. I would take leafs over links for DD, although they may not be the most comfortable. Also, 40s are pretty scary to drive fast with the really short wheel base. If you are linking it, keep it low and try to strech the wheel base some. I have a 78 on an OME 4" lift, previously on 33"s and I would probably never take it over 60mph. The rear end comes around really quickly, and the high COG makes them great a flipping.
I am going to use a sway bar on the front and rear and stretch the wheelbase. With the arc lengths as the suspension compresses, the long links allow for 2" longer wheelbase front and rear to meet the same bump stop position of the springs. My rear wheel wells have been trimmed by about 5" and I will be able to move the rear axle back more to center it in the opening when compressed.

I have compared the prices. It is not too much more for the link system.
 

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