Frame Finish/Coat Question (1 Viewer)

[VermontFJ60]

What’s the best frame finish option out there? I’m going to be sandblasting the frame this week or next and looking for help on what to use to protect it after. I live in Vermont and plan to use the Land Cruiser for camping / road trips, dirt road adventures, and to drive and enjoy. Don’t plan on driving it in the winter.

Ive heard of POR 15, Eastwood, and SEM. What are people’s experiences? Is there an all in one product (primer, finish, sealer)?

I want it done once and right. Seems good to avoid Powder Coating based on use case/location.

Thanks!

 

[BurntToast]

Something like a galvanize dip then epoxy paint would be pretty bulletproof. I can’t remember if there is some odd paint process after dip though.

Regardless use of fluid film for maintenance would be prudent

 

[DrRock]

Rust Bullet is another option that has good results. FYI I used POR15 on my truck as it’s easy to brush on and lays down nicely with that application method. My tuck doesn’t come out as soon as the road salt flies.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

If you are not driving in the winter, keep it simple. POR 15 needs surface rust to bind. Sandblasting removes that. Galvanizing is good if you plan to drive it in winters, but painting over it requires proper prep for adhesion and you have thread chase or protect every bolt hole because galvanized coating gets into every nook and cranny. Welding on galvanized surfaces releases poisonous gas. I am doing a frame swap at the moment and used rustoleum rattle can on top of self etching primer. It lays on like butter and tough. Others use John Deere Blitz Black which is also excellent. Chose the rattle can route as its easy to touch up without additional paint gun prep etc. Shake and spray.

 

[VermontFJ60]

Something like a galvanize dip then epoxy paint would be pretty bulletproof. I can’t remember if there is some odd paint process after dip though.

Regardless use of fluid film for maintenance would be prudent

I don’t plan on galvanizing it as closest place is a state away.

 

[VermontFJ60]

Rust Bullet is another option that has good results. FYI I used POR15 on my truck as it’s easy to brush on and lays down nicely with that application method. My tuck doesn’t come out as soon as the road salt flies.

Did you sandblast your frame prior to applying on the frame? How did you get the inside the frame coated?

 

[VermontFJ60]

If you are not driving in the winter, keep it simple. POR 15 needs surface rust to bind. Sandblasting removes that. Galvanizing is good if you plan to drive it in winters, but painting over it requires proper prep for adhesion and you have thread chase or protect every bolt hole because galvanized coating gets into every nook and cranny. Welding on galvanized surfaces releases poisonous gas. I am doing a frame swap at the moment and used rustoleum rattle can on top of self etching primer. It lays on like butter and tough. Others use John Deere Blitz Black which is also excellent. Chose the rattle can route as its easy to touch up without additional paint gun prep etc. Shake and spray.

View attachment 3748608

I wasn’t aware that POR 15 only adheres to rust. Sounds like it won’t work on a sandblasted surface then. I won’t be going the galvanized route either but the spray on seems like a good way to go or paint on easy to reach spots and spray others. How did you treat the inside of the frame?

 

[franklin40]

i don’t think that’s totally true. there is a metal prep kit that you can use to etch the metal so the POR15 will stick. i used that on a galvanized frame and it has stuck fine.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Here is what I used on my 60. It was in good shape but I wanted a top product to protect my truck from chemicals
that are always spraying up into the bottom. It's military use is what got me interested. It's long term ability to stick and
it runs into the cracks and gaps really well. After 2 yrs its' completely sealed still, no chips or cracks or wear. In the 80
series there is a guy from MN who has been driving his truck all-weather for 8 yrs and his undercarriage is like new.
It took about 5-6 cans to do the bottom everything first time. I got under there and add to wheel wells, front of axles
and along the rockers this year. Just know that more is better.

Cosmoline RP-342 Black Rust Preventive Spray (Military-Grade) 12-Cans​

9-Cans - COSMOLINE MILITARY-GRADE "BLACK" Rust Preventive RP-342 | eBay

Our Strongest, Thickest, Longest-Lasting (and Fastest-Drying) Rust Preventive Aerosol, PERIOD! Mid-Size Sedan: 6 Aerosol Cans for Undercarriage. Add 3 Aerosol Cans for Inside Door Panels, Tailgate, etc.

www.ebay.com

​

 

[Lucky1386]

Glad this thread just popped up. I am.in the middle of tearing down my truck and pretty close to pulling the frame out from under the truck. I was going to have it sand blasted and powder coated but curious as to why that seems to not be a great option? Also what would be the right approach for the inside of the frame, do you guys hose em out and then add some.kind of liquid that helps seal them? Any input greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

[VermontFJ60]

Here is what I used on my 60. It was in good shape but I wanted a top product to protect my truck from chemicals
that are always spraying up into the bottom. It's military use is what got me interested. It's long term ability to stick and
it runs into the cracks and gaps really well. After 2 yrs its' completely sealed still, no chips or cracks or wear. In the 80
series there is a guy from MN who has been driving his truck all-weather for 8 yrs and his undercarriage is like new.
It took about 5-6 cans to do the bottom everything first time. I got under there and add to wheel wells, front of axles
and along the rockers this year. Just know that more is better.

Cosmoline RP-342 Black Rust Preventive Spray (Military-Grade) 12-Cans​

9-Cans - COSMOLINE MILITARY-GRADE "BLACK" Rust Preventive RP-342 | eBay

Our Strongest, Thickest, Longest-Lasting (and Fastest-Drying) Rust Preventive Aerosol, PERIOD! Mid-Size Sedan: 6 Aerosol Cans for Undercarriage. Add 3 Aerosol Cans for Inside Door Panels, Tailgate, etc.

www.ebay.com

​

Thanks for the insight and sharing that product. Do you have pictures of the frame of your 60 after it was done? Would love to see it.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Thanks for the insight and sharing that product. Do you have pictures of the frame of your 60 after it was done? Would love to see it.

I didn't take any pics after. I'm away from home until mid Nov. PM me after the 15th of Nov and I will send pics.
BTW, get a full body painters suit, goggles and nitrile gloves. Underneath a truck spraying for a couple of hours is
really a messy crappy business and make sure plastic drop sheet underneath too. My shop floor was a bit sticky
for a bit (not fun) and anyways, just personal advice.
Search 80's forum and look for cosmoline or undercarriage protection. I don't recall the thread specifically.

 

[DrRock]

Did you sandblast your frame prior to applying on the frame? How did you get the inside the frame coated?

I did not sandblast my frame. I wire wheeled what I could and followed the POR15 instructions. Unfortunately I can’t do a body off approach due to my garage and equipment space. I haven’t done any of the interior of the channels either.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

A single pack paint that is designed to react with rust (and I don't for a moment believe that this means it can only be painted on rust) is obviously a compromise product. If you have the frame out and blasted, you don't need to go down this route. I would go with a 2k epoxy primer and then a topcoat of your choice - mine is a 2k PU black.

 

[dbbowen]

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