Found another 100 series but have a consern...

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Create an account on Toyota Owners site and enter the VIN so you can see any Toyota service history. Great feature to use to help you identify what's been done.

That was the first vin checker i used. Great awrvice and have been using it for years. I have crossed
Get the vin, pull it up on Toyota owners to view maintenance history
Log into Your Toyota Owners Account | Toyota Owners

Than get a $4 Carfax from Craigslist and compare.

Thanks guys. Already use that service. Actaully the first vin service i use when checking out a toyota. Unfortunately not much of a record on thst site with this particular car.
 
One ither thing i just remebered. There was an almost hum/ whine from the engine under load at higher rpms. Anyrhing to be worried about?
 
Update, went with cash to buy the car. Seller hands me a Georgia Title with the previous owners name. It was open as previous owner signed it away but CL seller did not put his name down. I also asked him how long he had 'owned' the LC and he said three years even though previous owner paid for GA registration a year ago. I walked from the deal. He was willing to let me bring the rig to a mechanic and bring it to pass emission but he did not want to transfer it to his name. Am I being overly safe buying this things? This is the second LC i have checked out that did not seem right in the end. Getting stressful looking for these and 4Runners.
 
That whole deal reeked of shady. Is there any way to contact the previous owner now you have her information? Could you call the State and have the plate run to see if it was reported stolen?
 
That whole deal reeked of shady. Is there any way to contact the previous owner now you have her information? Could you call the State and have the plate run to see if it was reported stolen?

I checked the vin several times and not labeled as stolen. I called the previous owner kind of. The house address I found on the registration is up for sale so I called the real estate agent. He told me the previous owner sold the rig to a guy named 'Mike' at the club. I asked if the agent could get me in contact with that guy. His reply was 'I'm just a real estate agent and I thanked him for his help. The guy selling the truck is not Mike, its Fernando.
 
I checked the vin several times and not labeled as stolen. I called the previous owner kind of. The house address I found on the registration is up for sale so I called the real estate agent. He told me the previous owner sold the rig to a guy named 'Mike' at the club. I asked if the agent could get me in contact with that guy. His reply was 'I'm just a real estate agent and I thanked him for his help. The guy selling the truck is not Mike, its Fernando.
Sorry, I did read that. :bang: Sorry again, one last question. Was she a stripper?
 
Cool, unfortunately dont have much time to get in inspected but compard to the last one i checked out this one looks great. What issues did overlook on yours that later caused issues?

Leaking valve cover gasket, leaky top radiator tank, leaking/play in steering rack. None of which showed up on my inspection. I'm no expert though
 
Different states different owners... sounds shaddy. Check the VIN on the frame rail back side of passenger front tire. You could check the instrument cluster too for signs of removal. right at the top of the clear shield there is supposed to be a little strip of foam rubber between the shield and the dash. it was missing on mine which I have confirmed to be a roll back. which is actually a instrument cluster from a different vehicle. Look to see if the screws have been removed from the shield. I'd wait and buy from an "owner" who has good records. Him saying it's his baby, lots of interested buyers, price going up. PALEASE... that's salesmanship. Hate to admit it but I'm the mudder who bought one that had been rolled back. You've done your due diligence, I'd walk away. or just lowball him then walk.
 
Will do, i already have a pic of his drivers liscence. I foubd most vins but where are they on the motor, frame and body?
Title not in seller name is not a big deal, not have original title at time of sale is. I've bought and sold cars without putting title into my name more than once. But if it didn't feel right walking is always best.

For future reference; frame VIN is on PS in front wheel well, look on side of frame as it heads back under body. Engine VIN is also on PS, look for a small plate under valve cover. Body VIN is on DS, look down on dash through lower corner of windshield from the out side of cabin.
 
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If he had the title in hand and you had a copy of his DL I probably would have low balled him. You can do a GA title check online from your phone. Nothing shady about it not being in his name. Maybe "Mike" sold it to him with an open title from the original owner?

I'm just trying to think of what scam he could be running.....especially if he gives you a copy of his DL and allows you to take it to your mechanic :meh:
 
I think you made the right call. keep looking the good ones are out there. I looked for 14 months and was ready to go the GX route then my rig came up within an hour of my house.
 
If he had the title in hand and you had a copy of his DL I probably would have low balled him. You can do a GA title check online from your phone. Nothing shady about it not being in his name. Maybe "Mike" sold it to him with an open title from the original owner?

I'm just trying to think of what scam he could be running.....especially if he gives you a copy of his DL and allows you to take it to your mechanic :meh:

Im starting to think the same thing. I think he is just a flipper who happened into the car. He was lieing about how long he has owned it though. Either way we talked again and he was working on getting emissions done (needed to get registered here in az) . Monday (his day off) he would be cool getting the rig checked out at my mechanic and completing the deal at the dmv. This gives me enough time to research the car some more which looks like a pretty solid rig (wont know until the mechanic really looks at it)
So basically im viewing this guy as a used car salesman aka flipper. If rig checks ok i will work out some type of deal with him
I would love to pay less then the 8k but not sure how to go about that (unless things are worng that the mechanic finds).
I dont see where you guys are seeing these other rigs at the same mileage for around the same price. Im seeking eother one of these or another 3rd gen 4runner. 3rd gens are climbing in price 5-7k for a 4x4. Land cruisers are 7-15k depending on mileage. Im amming for less then 9k for a used rig right now. I think this one is priced pretty good for the mileage but mostlikly needs general oem matinance to get it up to speck. Right now going to keep this LC in play unless something else comes up. Your opions and advice is still appreciated.
 
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at that mileage be ready to drop a new steering rack in it if it has not been done.
 
at that mileage be ready to drop a new steering rack in it if it has not been done.

Is that a 'fail point' later on in these LCs lifes? What else 'fails'? Here is my other toyota. 1998 4runner 5speed 4x4 with locker on Icon 2.5 suspension.



This rig has basically been maintenance free after buying it at 170k (same milage as this LC). Only know maintenance done on it was timmibg belt at 130k. Now it is approching 225k and i dropped a supercharger on it ~7k ago. Still runs strong. This little 4runner really makes me respect the reliability a Toyota can have. Can i expect the same out of these 100 series LCs? They seem more maintenance intensive then 3rd gen 4runners but they are also larger, more powerful and maybe better off and on road?
 
the bushings tend to get loose on the higher mileage rigs and then cause other problems to develop. If you catch it early enough you can replace bushings and keep going. The LC has a much heavier steering system then 4runner so it something to check out along with the timing belt.
 
Get it checked out if that makes you feel better; if it were me I'd just show up and tell him there are some discrepancies in his story and the title situation makes you hesitant but if he's willing to take $7000 cash then he has a deal. Be prepared to walk in which case he will probably call you later and try to haggle you to 8K or 7500. Stay on 7K.

He seems motivated. You don't need to be.
 

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