For those who've repainted the roof of their 80 (and roof gutters, etc.) what did you find was the best approach?

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Apart from paying a body/paint shop to do the job professionally?

Mine is getting pretty bad on top now, and really needs to be dealt with.

At one point I consider raptor coating it but now I'm not so sure that's going to be the beneficial solution I'm thinking it could be.
 
Well, there's no cheap and easy way to do it right.

Previous owner of mine mysteriously painted the top with a rattle can, but then had the rest professionally painted and left the top looking like s***. I opted to install a roof rack and enough lift that I can't see it and it doesn't bother me....

I’d just strip it yourself and get it dropped off at a body shop for the sanding/painting. Reinstall the trim and call it good. Bonus points for deleting the factory roof rack and rub rails unless you're trying to maintain a stock appearance.
 
Apart from paying a body/paint shop to do the job professionally?

Mine is getting pretty bad on top now, and really needs to be dealt with.

At one point I consider raptor coating it but now I'm not so sure that's going to be the beneficial solution I'm thinking it could be.
What I would do, and I’ve painted boats and aircraft this way.

You will be using 2 part paints and applying it with a roller!

All paints can be applied this way and if done correctly it will look very close to sprayed and you can do it yourself easily.

You can use polyurethane, acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel.

1. Wash thoroughly with liquid laundry detergent and burgundy Scotch-Brite, rinse thoroughly and repeat.

2. Get your desired paint. If it needs to be primed, you can prime it with two-part paint. Also, you can use epoxy. After primer dries You’re ready for your paint.

3. If you’re painting outside, it is best done in the morning when there is less wind and the temperatures are not super hot. You don’t want it super hot.

4. Buy quality foam rollers the 6 inch kind is totally adequate. It’s actually the best to use. Buy a package with at least 6 to 10.

5. mask as required where you want your lines to be then roll the paint. After you’ve rolled, just moved to the next line on your fresh surface and roll another one. Try not to roll back into the other paint if it’s any longer than two or three minutes since you applied it. Allow that coat to dry. Scuff with 320 wet then thoroughly clean with a surface wipe that’s used before you would paint like a wax and grease remover. Apply your next coat following the same procedure as the first.

Two coats is usually adequate but if you’re not happy scuff again with 320 wet wipe again and apply another coat.
Make sure the day is going to be a dry day no fog no high humidity.

The reason you would buy a multi pack of foam rollers is because the solvent attack, even if you buy a solvent proof foam roller.

So as you’re rolling, if you see the foam roller beginning to swell, that’s when you’ll change it out.

Maybe do a practice section on a piece of sheet metal first so you can understand the flow of the paint, you need to thin the paint less than you would if you’re spraying and use a slow reducer/slow thinner. If you’re gonna do a horizontal surface, you will actually thin it about the same as you’re spraying it, but you only put it on lightly and do multiple coats and sand in between after dries.

This really works. I’ve done some amazing paint jobs from small general aviation aircraft to actually turboprops touch up work on the turbo props.
 
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The seam sealer IME in the roof gutters will dry out and crack over time/sun exposure and that can lead to rust underneath.

IMHO if you're going to the trouble to paint the entire roof might as sell spend a bit more time removing the old cracked seam sealer, removing/treating any rust, then prime the metal and apply new seam sealer.

FWIW
 
I'm feeling it's a job far better given to a proper body shop?
 
What I would do, and I’ve painted boats and aircraft this way.

You will be using 2 part paints and applying it with a roller!

All paints can be applied this way and if done correctly it will look very close to sprayed and you can do it yourself easily.

You can use polyurethane, acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel.

1. Wash thoroughly with liquid laundry detergent and burgundy Scotch-Brite, rinse thoroughly and repeat.

2. Get your desired paint. If it needs to be primed, you can prime it with two-part paint. Also, you can use epoxy. After primer dries You’re ready for your paint.

3. If you’re painting outside, it is best done in the morning when there is less wind and the temperatures are not super hot. You don’t want it super hot.

4. Buy quality foam rollers the 6 inch kind is totally adequate. It’s actually the best to use. Buy a package with at least 6 to 10.

5. mask as required where you want your lines to be then roll the paint. After you’ve rolled, just moved to the next line on your fresh surface and roll another one. Try not to roll back into the other paint if it’s any longer than two or three minutes since you applied it. Allow that coat to dry. Scuff with 320 wet then thoroughly clean with a surface wipe that’s used before you would paint like a wax and grease remover. Apply your next coat following the same procedure as the first.

Two coats is usually adequate but if you’re not happy scuff again with 320 wet wipe again and apply another coat.
Make sure the day is going to be a dry day no fog no high humidity.

The reason you would buy a multi pack of foam rollers is because the solvent attack, even if you buy a solvent proof foam roller.

So as you’re rolling, if you see the foam roller beginning to swell, that’s when you’ll change it out.

Maybe do a practice section on a piece of sheet metal first so you can understand the flow of the paint, you need to thin the paint less than you would if you’re spraying and use a slow reducer/slow thinner. If you’re gonna do a horizontal surface, you will actually thin it about the same as you’re spraying it, but you only put it on lightly and do multiple coats and sand in between after dries.

This really works. I’ve done some amazing paint jobs from small general aviation aircraft to actually turboprops touch up work on the turbo props.
Sounds like a lot of good tips! I painted a camper shell for my Ranger and used spray gun and exterior acrylic latex with good results. It still looks good after a couple years now with better than average sun exposure. But that was fiberglass.
Edit: I just remembered using a spray gun, not rollers.
I'm feeling it's a job far better given to a proper body shop?
I have to agree. If this is your first attempt on Automotive painting, it probably would be a better idea.
 
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IMHO don't ruin it with a cheapo paint job. I've seen too many of those, they paint over fender flare and door handle gaskets, poor prep of the body
so the new paint peels, poor quality/cheapo paint, primer, clear coat so it fades, cracks and chips.

Better to not paint it at all than do a quickie cheap job. IMHO
 
What I would do, and I’ve painted boats and aircraft this way.

You will be using 2 part paints and applying it with a roller!

All paints can be applied this way and if done correctly it will look very close to sprayed and you can do it yourself easily.

You can use polyurethane, acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel.

1. Wash thoroughly with liquid laundry detergent and burgundy Scotch-Brite, rinse thoroughly and repeat.

2. Get your desired paint. If it needs to be primed, you can prime it with two-part paint. Also, you can use epoxy. After primer dries You’re ready for your paint.

3. If you’re painting outside, it is best done in the morning when there is less wind and the temperatures are not super hot. You don’t want it super hot.

4. Buy quality foam rollers the 6 inch kind is totally adequate. It’s actually the best to use. Buy a package with at least 6 to 10.

5. mask as required where you want your lines to be then roll the paint. After you’ve rolled, just moved to the next line on your fresh surface and roll another one. Try not to roll back into the other paint if it’s any longer than two or three minutes since you applied it. Allow that coat to dry. Scuff with 320 wet then thoroughly clean with a surface wipe that’s used before you would paint like a wax and grease remover. Apply your next coat following the same procedure as the first.

Two coats is usually adequate but if you’re not happy scuff again with 320 wet wipe again and apply another coat.
Make sure the day is going to be a dry day no fog no high humidity.

The reason you would buy a multi pack of foam rollers is because the solvent attack, even if you buy a solvent proof foam roller.

So as you’re rolling, if you see the foam roller beginning to swell, that’s when you’ll change it out.

Maybe do a practice section on a piece of sheet metal first so you can understand the flow of the paint, you need to thin the paint less than you would if you’re spraying and use a slow reducer/slow thinner. If you’re gonna do a horizontal surface, you will actually thin it about the same as you’re spraying it, but you only put it on lightly and do multiple coats and sand in between after dries.

This really works. I’ve done some amazing paint jobs from small general aviation aircraft to actually turboprops touch up work on the turbo props.
I saved these steps as notes to reference later.

I painted the roof on my 80 white. I used Rustoleum Professional flat white spraypaint. I did it under an awning in the rain and it looks like it. It has held up for many years but now has mold growing in the surface. I really want to do it right with a high gloss paint.

1741824142309.png
 
I saved these steps as notes to reference later.

I painted the roof on my 80 white. I used Rustoleum Professional flat white spraypaint. I did it under an awning in the rain and it looks like it. It has held up for many years but now has mold growing in the surface. I really want to do it right with a high gloss paint.

View attachment 3859443
Rustoleum is like Tremclad.

You can add urethane hardener to either and use the same reducer as the hardener manufacturer.

It will cure to a 2 k paint hardness and be fuel and fade resistant
 
Rustoleum is like Tremclad.

You can add urethane hardener to either and use the same reducer as the hardener manufacturer.

It will cure to a 2 k paint hardness and be fuel and fade resistant
I don't know if Tremclad is good or bad but I like the idea of grabbing a quart of rustoleum and adding a hardener and reducer and applying with a roller.
 
I don't know if Tremclad is good or bad but I like the idea of grabbing a quart of rustoleum and adding a hardener and reducer and applying with a roller.
Same product, same company.
 

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