For the DIYers that replaced windshield and moldings (1 Viewer)

[Patron100LC]

Hello.

I'm collecting parts that I might replace when I repaint my LC. The clearcoat has faded to nothing, it's time for a cosmetic refresh.

One of the sections I was considering addressing is the windshield frame, not sure if there's any rust there, but I do get a good amount of wind noise, and it seems it's leaking somewhere. It's an aftermarket, so it's been replaced by PO, no records of the replacement anywhere.
If there's any way I can address these issues without removing the windshield, it's preferable, since I invested about $200 to get it tinted with a ceramic tint, and I don't want to redo if not necessary.

My question has 2 parts.

How doable is it to remove the windshield, repair, repaint and re- install same glass? I understand the risks, but some cars are almost impossible to save the glass on removal. DIY preferable, but if I need a pro, it's a phone call away.

Also, is it possible to remove the upper rubber molding and install a new one after paint, WITHOUT removing the glass?


2nd part of the question is about part numbers.

Which rails do I need? I'm checking partsouq and it gives 2 different sets of part numbers for the mouldings that attach with rivets. I might order those, or not, and wait till I remove to check their condition.

It shows only 1 type available, and pictures are there, googled and found that both look very similar, maybe even the same.

It shows this ones for cars with roof rails:
75533-60060 Right side
75534-60050 Left side

Shows these without a roof rail comment:

75533-60031 and 75534-60021. these are available and have images.

My LC is a 2005 US market, manufactured 11/2004, sold with the South East Oldie Pack (ugly fender flares are still on, protecting me from idiots opening doors in parking lots) and has the OEM roof rack with the bigger feet.

Any one that has this roof rack ordered the moldings and is able to confirm on the parts? Appreciated in advance!

Sorry for the long questions, just couldn't find a definitive answer by searching.

 

[awesomeissquid]

I believe @Moridinbg pulled his own windshield and reinstalled it. Might be able to offer some guidance.

 

[YotaWagon]

75533-60060 - "With sunroof, front, with luggage carrier. Outside #1, with luggage carrier."

75533-60031 - "With sunroof, front, without luggage carrier. Outside #1, without luggage carrier."

"With luggage carrier" is shorter and the foot of the roof rack covers the gap. "Without luggage carrier" is longer and will cover the gap if you don't have a roof rack. Functionally the same, aesthetically different. I don't have a roof rack and there is a gap between the moulding and the rails on top. It looks a little weird, but doesn't cause any leaks or anything. I am unsure if using the longer moulding and a roof rack would cause any interference issues.

Here is an example of the difference:

 

[Patron100LC]

I believe @Moridinbg pulled his own windshield and reinstalled it. Might be able to offer some guidance.

Thanks! Hope he sees it.

75533-60060 - "With sunroof, front, with luggage carrier. Outside #1, with luggage carrier."

75533-60031 - "With sunroof, front, without luggage carrier. Outside #1, without luggage carrier."

"With luggage carrier" is shorter and the foot of the roof rack covers the gap. "Without luggage carrier" is longer and will cover the gap if you don't have a roof rack. Functionally the same, aesthetically different. I don't have a roof rack and there is a gap between the moulding and the rails on top. It looks a little weird, but doesn't cause any leaks or anything. I am unsure if using the longer moulding and a roof rack would cause any interference issues.

Here is an example of the difference:

View attachment 3576303

View attachment 3576305

Thanks, sadly Partsouq don't have it, they should be around $100 + shipping. Toyota Online is $170 each or so, might reuse mine if I don't mess them up removing them. I already have the inserts that cover the rivets, the actual rivets, and the rubber that goes on the roof side.

Ordered the rubber because I'd like to remove it for paint instead of taping, for a cleaner cut without issues later. But I'm afraid that if I remove the rubber, the only way back in is glass off.

 

[YotaWagon]

Thanks! Hope he sees it.




Thanks, sadly Partsouq don't have it, they should be around $100 + shipping. Toyota Online is $170 each or so, might reuse mine if I don't mess them up removing them. I already have the inserts that cover the rivets, the actual rivets, and the rubber that goes on the roof side.

Ordered the rubber because I'd like to remove it for paint instead of taping, for a cleaner cut without issues later. But I'm afraid that if I remove the rubber, the only way back in is glass off.

Amayama has them available for the same price as Partsouq.

 

[katit]

For removing- pro gave me 90% chance. I went DIY and broke it of course. But I was OK with $150 replacement.

Low chance to save IMO

 

[Patron100LC]

Amayama has them available for the same price as Partsouq.

Thanks for the reminder, for some reason I always forget Amayama, and I used them before . Great source of OEM parts.

For removing- pro gave me 90% chance. I went DIY and broke it of course. But I was OK with $150 replacement.

Low chance to save IMO

Aghh, annoying! I might need to remove it if I find sizable traces of rust in there, but if not, I'll just leave it there and work on the leaks around it, bought a very fine syringe that I can try using to inject windshield glue in the areas where leaks are possible, it should work (In my mind, it does!).

Thanks for all replies, the only question I still have is regarding the upper trim, rubber molding that touches the roof.

Any chance of reinstall of a new piece without removing the glass?

Hope someone has the insight!

 

[katit]

Any chance of reinstall of a new piece without removing the glass?

Hope someone has the insight!

I DIY replaced whole thing - it's in my topic. Top trim piece is where I f..d up big time. Here is a deal, if you look at profile of this trim - it has like "U" channel with like 1/6 sides. Meaning it needs to go over glass. But if you add glue around glass (or scrape glue during install of new glass) - you won't have that channel. Meaning - this trim need to be installed at the same time with a window/glue.

However, FSM calls for separate/different glue. (all of this in my topic on 2000 LX in my sig). And my idea was that this place on top need to be really sealed, so I wanted no "void" below top trim. I filled gap with glue, installed rubber, glue got out from under rubber, Mess was made, etc. You can't see it from distance, but it's not pretty.

If I did it again - I would install top trim together with window while window glue is fresh and hope that water won't be getting under.

If you have replaced windshield already - chances are - rust starts forming. They 100% scratch metal when removing old window. If not treated primed - you will have rust.

 

[ranma21]

Thanks for the reminder, for some reason I always forget Amayama, and I used them before . Great source of OEM parts.


Aghh, annoying! I might need to remove it if I find sizable traces of rust in there, but if not, I'll just leave it there and work on the leaks around it, bought a very fine syringe that I can try using to inject windshield glue in the areas where leaks are possible, it should work (In my mind, it does!).

Thanks for all replies, the only question I still have is regarding the upper trim, rubber molding that touches the roof.

Any chance of reinstall of a new piece without removing the glass?

Hope someone has the insight!

I have these drip moldings in stock if you need them =)

 

[Patron100LC]

I DIY replaced whole thing - it's in my topic. Top trim piece is where I f..d up big time. Here is a deal, if you look at profile of this trim - it has like "U" channel with like 1/6 sides. Meaning it needs to go over glass. But if you add glue around glass (or scrape glue during install of new glass) - you won't have that channel. Meaning - this trim need to be installed at the same time with a window/glue.

However, FSM calls for separate/different glue. (all of this in my topic on 2000 LX in my sig). And my idea was that this place on top need to be really sealed, so I wanted no "void" below top trim. I filled gap with glue, installed rubber, glue got out from under rubber, Mess was made, etc. You can't see it from distance, but it's not pretty.

If I did it again - I would install top trim together with window while window glue is fresh and hope that water won't be getting under.

If you have replaced windshield already - chances are - rust starts forming. They 100% scratch metal when removing old window. If not treated primed - you will have rust.

Thanks @katit for sending me to your build thread. Great work bringing that old gal back to life! Hope you finish it soon. Kinda disappointed that the Ridies kit didn't fit well enough for you. Maybe they need some summer time?

Now I see what you mean, ideally, in a perfect world, you put the rubber on the glass and then install using windshield glue on the glass and magic glue on the rubber? I did check FSM but I missed that part, I'll get back to it when home..

I was wandering where to use those stoppers, thanks for the detailed clarification. What did you use to glue the stopper to glass? looks like JB Weld.

I guess when ready I'll begin working on removing the rubber trim and drip channels, assess the damage, and go from there. At least I'm a bit wiser now. PO replaced windshield, so fingers crossed.

I have these drip moldings in stock if you need them =)

I'll try and recon mine, but if they are trash I'll contact you for a quote, Thanks.

 

[katit]

Thanks @katit for sending me to your build thread. Great work bringing that old gal back to life! Hope you finish it soon. Kinda disappointed that the Ridies kit didn't fit well enough for you. Maybe they need some summer time?

Not really, they just made with a bunch of cut corners. I can get into details if anyone interested but it's not close to original. Like I said, I know what it takes to make covers (it's in my other build) and for the price they are OK. But they are not quality made.

What did you use to glue the stopper to glass? looks like JB Weld.

Actually I used that same 3M trim glue

 

[Moridinbg]

I believe @Moridinbg pulled his own windshield and reinstalled it. Might be able to offer some guidance.

I did. You can check it out here.
I ****ed it up though The glass came out easily with no cracks, but I only ever did epoxy primer, without painting over it on the windshield frame - it was cold and I did not have the time to let it dry, paint with paint, let that dry, then put the windshield and let the glue dry.
Obviously it was a mistake as it has been leaking like a sieve for quite some time now. I kid you not, I have had to put buckets in the car and my wife hates rag duty - when it's raining heavily and she has to hold the rag to the roof so it doesn't leak on her dress I had to do an atrocious "fix" with red silicone sealer on the outside.
Also turns out the rivet holes had been enlarged just enough by past owners that when I did it it seemed that the OEM rivets were holding well, but eventually all on the passenger side came out and the moulding moves now.

I will have to remove it again and do it properly this time, which I am not looking too much into.