Ed,
I am using the MAF fluid heatriser which is exactly what is described by Alan above.
I have been running SOR's 2 piece headers for about 6 months with no problems. I chose those because 2 piece headers loosen less than 1 piece headers, and they were relatively inexpensive. I am, however, about to replace them with a 6>1 header from MAF. The only reason I am doing that is because I've gotten ahold of a PTO winch setup, and it is not compatable with any headers I can find except the MAF 6>1s. Even that has to be modified slightly by notching the bracket between the headers and the header exhaust to accept the PTO driveline. (No, the MAFs are not ceramic coated headers and neither are the SORs).
I think heatrisers help substantially, and the main reason I went to headers is that the stock heatriser on my exhaust had rusted away (like most of them from my vintage of '40). There are other great reasons to use headers, and I really like the way my '40 runs with them. I would bet that the reason jprissel's stock manifold setup runs so well cold is that his stock heatriser is functioning. I don't have experience, but I would bet that a stock exhaust gas heatriser works better than a fluid heatriser, because the temp would rise faster.
The danger of an old stock heatriser is that if it gets stuck in the on position, you'll boil your gas and burn your head/valves/engine.
Someone else will have to speak to the value of ceramic and/or tuned headers. I'd be interested in an independent view on that.
Anyway, I'll have a cheap, barely-used set of SOR 2-piece headers available soon if somebody wants them.