Fluid Heat Riser and PCV Hose Routing for 79 FJ40?

[CruiserInProgress]

My 79 FJ40 project is finally running (mostly) after sitting for many years, and seemingly abused and neglected before that.

My first goal is to get it functional and complete enough to get it back on the road and have some fun with it, so I apologize for the current "patina".

A previous owner desmogged it, removing all the related hardware without removing the associated wiring, but that's another story.

I'm in the process of installing the EGR delete kit (from Redline) on the intake manifold for my PCV hose and am wondering how to route it and how best to reroute the ugly plumbing for the fluid heat riser.

I would like to route new, more compact hoses from the intake manifold below the carb, straight back to the firewall and up over the rocker cover to the passenger side of the engine.

However, it gets pretty crowded around my throttle linkage and I want to stay clear of the header.

I've looked at quite a few pictures of later model FJ40's and the ones with fluid heat risers seem to route their hoses around and over the brake booster/master.

My question is, is there a better, cleaner way to go with the routing of these hoses?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I made my own fluid heat riser and yes the hoses go over the booster/MC and clutch master.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

I made my own fluid heat riser and yes the hoses go over the booster/MC and clutch master.

Thanks, that's interesting. The fluid heat riser installations I've seen on other vehicles look way better than my mess, but still seem like a bit of an afterthought. If there isn't a better way, I'm sure I can tidy mine up quite a bit with compact hoses and some strategic strapping.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yea I'm sure routing could be cleaned up by using like copper pipe - heater hose and header need to stay apart thus my routing around the back side.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Yea I'm sure routing could be cleaned up by using like copper pipe - heater hose and header need to stay apart thus my routing around the back side.

That's kinda what I had in mind, following the curve in the firewall behind the engine, like the brake Iines. But, I was hoping to avoid going over the brake mc/ booster. Still, it can be done that way too, just not as cleanly.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Yea I'm sure routing could be cleaned up by using like copper pipe - heater hose and header need to stay apart thus my routing around the back side.

I looked a bit more closely at routing and clearances of the fluid heat riser and PCV hoses today, when I hooked up my new EGR delete plate for the PCV hose.

That huge stock brake booster limits the number of hoses I could cleanly route around it. But a new, low profile booster/MC would make it pretty easy to do something creative and provide a more tidy look. There's even a sort of channel in the firewall below the brake and clutch masters that can be used for part of the routing.

But, I'll leave "neat and tidy" for the next phase.

Today, after the engine work, I took it out for a test drive, over shallow, but icy snow around my place. 4WD Low was a blast, pulling like a mule up steep grades. Fun!

 

[POPO AGIE]

I bought one for mine from Spector Off Road I think and it was a lot less intrusive and looked cleaner then that.

 

[CruiserInProgress]

I bought one for mine from Spector Off Road I think and it was a lot less intrusive and looked cleaner then that.

Yeah, it would be difficult to have it look any more ugly and intrusive than the previous owner's installation. I have a new Man a Fre kit on the shelf that I'll use to redo it.

I also picked up the stock hard lines for coolant to the heater and for the oil cooler that go along the head on the passenger side of the engine. Right now there are oversized hoses going everywhere. Soon!

 

[POPO AGIE]

I may have bought it from Man a Fre cant remember it was a long time ago. I don't even know what I did with the intake manifold. I used it on the original 2F motor then transferred the intake and header to the 155F.

I have not even started plumbing all the hoses and lines yet on my R2.8 yet.

 

[DeskJock]

Just got my heat riser from Man a fre. The rear bolt hole. Does the carb and or the intake manifold need to be removed for the installation?

 

[charliemeyer007]

I built my own mirroring theirs - I just glued a gasket on both sides and put it on. Teflon tape on the fittings

 

[Brian/99uzj100]

I removed my carb because the carb heat shield blocked access to the rear bolt.
I used the stock gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds as a template for cutting the generic gasket material, and generous amounts of f.i.p.g. on both sides of the gasket and on the threads of the hose fittings.
I also had to grind a tiny bit of the plate because it was too close to my Downey headers.
The only downside to headers from having them for 20+ years is my rig takes a while to warm up.
The fluid heat riser helps, as does the hot air riser to the air intake, but it's not the same as having the stock exhaust manifold bolted to the bottom of the intake.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Looks like the one I installed on the 2F intake.

 

[DeskJock]

I built my own mirroring theirs - I just glued a gasket on both sides and put it on. Teflon tape on the fittings

Did you just use the available 4 bolt holes? Seems like it should work.

And ya - I have headers. Likely Downey headers - would rather have stock - oh well.

 

[charliemeyer007]

That was way back in the mid to late 80's or early 90's. I used all the bolt holes in my 72's intake manifold.

 

[DeskJock]

To do that - I’ll have to remove the carb. .

Ya. - I’m lazy.

 

[DeskJock]

if any one wants the 1F Heat riser ( 1974 and b4) from Man-A-Fre - they can have it for the price of shipping. still have the original shipping box.