floor treatment options (1 Viewer)

[jblueridge]

I am probably going to remove the layer of sound deadening under the carpet in my BJ74.
I am pretty sure there is rust hiding under there.
I might get bedliner sprayed in after rust repairs.

Would something like Line-X kill sound well or would I need sound-proofing DynaMat type stuff also?
Any body using the Tru-Fit vinyl flooring from Oz?
Our range for: Toyota Land Cruiser 1988 73, 74 SERIES - TRUFIT Automotive Products

Thanks

 

[c2dfj45]

Strip it down....get rid of rotted areas. Treat the whole floor with Master Series Chassis paint...2-3 coats. Then I'd get some kind of butyl sound deadener on it(I really like the Second Skin Damplifier Pro. Their Spectrum spray in coating is really nice and you can roll, brush or spray it in....put it everywhere in the cab. You can run with the Spectrum as is or you can spray bedliner on top of it....something like Raptor would be great because you can color match it to your body and it's super easy to work with. Depending on how nice you want it to look, you'll have a lot of time in getting the butyl down so there are no gaps or seams. We'll be using this setup on my Troopy. I think if it were mine, I'd make sure the underside of the floorboards were sealed up with the chassis saver....totally encapsulate the rust from above and below IF there is surface rust. That Chassis Saver paint is magical. We had some pinholes in my floorboards of the 45LV and with that stuff and some fiberglass fibers mixed in....it filled in everything. Apparently Chassis Saver was what POR15 used to be.....but then POR15 was changed to make it more automotive friendly(people didn't like the silver). Chassis Saver is the stuff they use on bridges....it's serious stuff.

Those mats are really cool....RHD I would guess?

 

[SNLC]

I second that.

FYI, use dry ice to remove factory sound deadening.

Cheers

 

[jblueridge]

"Strip it down" means remove factory paint too?

Those mats are really cool....RHD I would guess?

They are for RHD yes. Not sure how non-symmetrical they are.

FYI, use dry ice to remove factory sound deadening.

Good idea!

 

[c2dfj45]

"Strip it down" means remove factory paint too?


They are for RHD yes. Not sure how non-symmetrical they are.


Good idea!

Strip it down....get everything off the floor of the truck, get the OEM sound deadener off with the dry ice trick. Wash it...let it dry. See what you're dealing with. On our Troopy since the floor is very very good( no rust), we'll scuff the floor with one of those nylon scuff cups. Depending on how the aftermarket paint is adhering, we may have to use some aircraft paint stripper and get it down to bare metal. I don't want to do that but if I have to I will. I don't really trust the respray's quality.

The Chassis Saver can be applied over everything....that's why I like it. Rusty metal, new metal, old paint, new paint, wood, fiberglass, etc. It's cool stuff. They have their own prep solution which is probably a good thing to use. The Chassis Saver is very forgiving unlike the POR15 which absolutely has to be done to the T to get it to work right when using on mixed surfaces(old paint, new metal, rust, etc). Excellent when it works but the Master Series stuff is a lot easier. The guy at Master Series is great to talk to....he will give you all the info that you need.

I think there are some drying times you need to be aware of when top coating...so take a look at that. If you go with the Spectrum sound deadener or something like Lizard Skin(there are lots of others), they need weeks to dry completely before you spray with your bedliner. Latex bases so they're loaded with moisture

The Second Skin Spectrum is neat stuff...we'll be doing the bottom of the #2 79 with that....very very easy stuff to work with and it drys rock hard.

If you're doing the floors, strip out your doors and do them at the same time with butyl and sound deadener spray...really tightens them up and since you've got all the junk out...it's a perfect time. Rear quarters too. Check the bottoms of the doors for rust...great idea to put some of the Chassis Saver in the bottoms to seal them up.

We'll be doing all of this on the Troopy once it's back from paint and I'll put up plenty of pics. I think my LV build should have lots of pics of our floor....we used Lizard Skin on that one however. I've switched over to the Second Skin now for the floors.

 

[jblueridge]

My factory paint is generally quite good/sound.
I was thinking bedliner because it can be rolled on.
I want the waterproofing and soundproofing qualities more that anything else.
Sounds like the combo you suggest gets me there.
Thanks.

 

[c2dfj45]

That's good if you have good paint....you can minimize the Chassis Saver....just use it where you have bare metal or rust. No need to strip off the OEM paint....just clean and scuff.

Bedliner aids in sound deadening but it's not its primary function. You'll need a true sound deadener...don't forget that along with the sound deadener, you get the thermal insulation too which is pretty significant. We've seen 20 degree temp drops on floors with thermal coatings.

Spray the bedliner on.....it's easy and you get a really nice and uniform finish. Keep in mind that Raptor is way thinner than something like a LineX which can be sprayed quite heavy. You'll have to think about texture too....the only downside I have seen spraying the Raptor over the sound deadener is that it can make the bedliner aggressively textured. I have found that going over the sound deadener with some heavy grit sand paper on a block to remove the high 'peaks' helps to get a more even finish when spraying the Raptor. That's been my experience with Lizard Skin at least. The Second Skin Spectrum went on really smooth with a very fine texture(we sprayed it on). Would be perfect to coat with Raptor. I'd probably still hit it with some sand paper on a block just to eliminate any high spots.

Second Skin Spectrum has a product that is called Sludge...it's the consistency of peanut butter....you can trowel it in to areas without it moving around as it dries. Neat stuff.

 

[jblueridge]

How about this for a plan.

Remove old sound material (dry ice)
Deal with any rust issues.
Clean, sand and paint with Master Series silver.
Roll or spray Second Skin Spectrum.
Replace original carpet
OR
buy molded vinyl flooring from Australia (if shipping is not to $$$)

 

[c2dfj45]

I think that's a winning plan right there. If you're not using the Spectrum as a bedliner, you'll have no worries. They specifically say that it is not for a bedliner.

Make sure you roll or spray the Spectrum to the right thickness. I'd probably be inclined to use some Damplifier Pro in certain areas before Spectrum...anywhere there is a ring when you tap on it. The guys at Second Skin(Eric....tech support) are excellent and have been super helpful....they usually have some pretty good sales too so watch for those.

Sound Deadener - Car Builders - Sound Deadener Heat Insulation Car heat Shields

These guys have some great videos doing Land Cruisers(new trucks....so no rust or old surface prep). The Bully Liner they sell looks really interesting.

 

[jblueridge]

How about the batting or felt padding under carpet?
That stuff seems to act like a sponge and encourages rust.
Is there a better substitute or just delete?

 

[c2dfj45]

Well if it's sealed with Chassis Saver and then topcoat with Spectrum, water won't be getting to the metal on the topside.

We are using the Luxury Liner Pro on my 79 cab...it's a big job to get that in....the whole floor is basically a big mat of heavy rubber with a foam layer. SUPER cool stuff. If you watch those videos the Car Builder guys do, they talk about water and the rubber MLV(mass loaded vinyl) flooring. Seems to not be much of a concern. The jute(fiber) is obviously a bigger issue with water. Car builders deletes the jute from the backside of the OEM vinyl flooring.

 

[FJ73Texas]

What I hate about the liner material is that there are so many options out there for many different applications. It is hard to find out what is the best kind for the specific job you are doing.

I loved the OEM vinyl floor in my FJ73. I wish I had full vinyl now.

 

[jblueridge]

Is this the OEM vinyl floor?

 

[FJ73Texas]

Yeah, that is what I had up front of my FJ73. Looks pretty close, if not exact match.

 

[jblueridge]

Does that flooring have the jute padding on the bottom side?

I am still going to call Australia tonight to see if they can ship the molded vinyl at reasonable cost.

 

[FJ73Texas]

On the FJ73, I don't recall it having any of that padding on it but I never completely removed it either.

I do know I was not able to use the BH3 3D molded cup holder I got in a group buy because of the way the vinyl flooring went over the raised edge, it was rather thick.

 

[hoser]

Yes, that is OEM vinyl for a 75 series but works well enough for a 73/74... but you would need to come up with something for the 2nd row and cargo area. It does have padding on the bottom side. You can get it from your local dealer... 58510-90L01-03 (gray).

Genuine Mat Assembly Floor Front for 58510-90L01-03 | Curry Toyota of Connecticut Parts

Find the right Mat Assembly Floor Front for your 58510-90L01-03. Not sure what you need? Use our VIN number search tool to find everything you need in one spot.

parts.currytoyotact.com

 

[FJ73Texas]

The FJ73 was vinyl all the way to the back. I do believe the rear portion was Colombian made to match the OEM vinyl front.

 

[hoser]

Japan factory vinyl was 3-piece (not including the wheel wells) and carpet was 2-piece for the 73/74.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I am probably going to remove the layer of sound deadening under the carpet in my BJ74.
I am pretty sure there is rust hiding under there.
I might get bedliner sprayed in after rust repairs.

Would something like Line-X kill sound well or would I need sound-proofing DynaMat type stuff also?
Any body using the Tru-Fit vinyl flooring from Oz?
Our range for: Toyota Land Cruiser 1988 73, 74 SERIES - TRUFIT Automotive Products

Thanks

To be honest, if the factory mastic sound deadener is intact there will be little chance of rust
under it. There could be rust coming up to the edge of it from confined moisture in all probability held
In place by the factory jute on the bottom of the carpet. The factory sound deadener was applied right over paint, and invariably stands the test of time if it remains intact.
Should you remove the factory sound deadener then Dynamat or Noico are the correct replacement. Spray in bed liner will do little towards sound deadening.
I just did my 60 as in my sig line below.

If you apply new sound deadener and seal it completely it will definitely keep the floor below sealed from moisture but it’s a long process. I would highly recommend new paint below the sound deadener to act as sealer.
I got new carpet, if you do order new stuff see if they can make sure there is no jute attached. That crap is really hard to remove from carpet bottom.