FLOODED TRUCK ! HELP !

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T

Tuscany Rider

10 Year
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May 2, 2013
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FLOODED TRUCK ! HELP !

Hi there, so it happened. Last July in Milan, Italy, a flash flood hit the northern part of the city, we lost everything, and my beloved 2001 4.2 diesel 100 went under ten foot water and mud. The truck is a total mess and brothers I need expert advice in order to save it. Any ideas are welcome, any tech tips, except “scrap the truck” of course. It will live and ride Tuscany again and again.
I recall that many cars were flooded when “Sandy” hit the US east coast a few years ago. I am looking for specific after-flood experience, but maybe that would be asking too much. Any wise expert advice will do.
Unfortunately the damage was done not just by water but by loads of mud as well. Oh how I8mud !
A Safari snorkel was fitted, but water went higher than that and flooded intake, turbo and cylinders.
I am doing this with the assistance of a pro mechanic, but the 100 is a relatively rare truck here and this is his first job of the sort.
Truck data:
2001 4.2 diesel automatic, 200.000 km. (125k miles)
model HDJ100L-GNPEZW
engine type 1HDFTE
OME 5” lift kit with HD torsion bars
double-DIN Pioneer navigator/stereo system with rear camera (totally f****d up?)
Here is how we got started:
- disconnected the batteries
- taken apart all of the electronics, washed and dried thoroughly
- diesel injectors extracted with the original Toyota tool, oil poured into cylinders
- drained fuel tank (diesel was mixed with water)
- diesel filter replaced
- changed all oils (engine, diffs, auto gearbox)
- changed all fluids (atf, brakes etc.)
- leather upholstery cleaned and treated with seal fat
- the engine is rotating free and unharmed (but we have not tried to start it with fuel yet).
This is where we stand today.
Please help !
A few questions of mine:
- any suggestions on how to grease the wheel bearings ?
- has anyone a list of parts that need greasing underneath ?
- do the OME shocks need service after being underwater ?
- how to service the A/C system ?
- timing belt and w/pump were done at 100k miles and should be ok, but should I replace all of the bearings again ?
- anyone has an idea on how hard/easy it is to take out the seats and replace all of the mats ?
Thanks !


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Wow thats terrible. I know you said you didn't want to hear it, but you're going to spend thousands upon thousands of dollars to get that truck right. So they not have insurance for these kinds of things where you are?

I mean every single mechanical and electrical component is going to have to be removed, throughly cleaned and replaced. You'll basically have to do a frame off restoration.
 
Ohh boy if anyone would know about sinking a Hundy it would be me.....but I agree with Scott. It will cost you more to fix than what the truck is worth. Time to sell it to a scrap yard and use the $$$ to buy a new one!


Official Jeep Recovery Vehicle
 
...but all that said, anything you need to know you'll find on the FAQ section here...off the top of my head, you only have grease fittings on each of the 4 u-joints, and one on each of the driveshafts.
 
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This looks like denial to me.
 
That is a crying shame. I feel for you, man! And for it to be one with the 1HD-FTE...ugh.

Like Scott said, it's a major restoration...lots of money and time. But it could be the opportunity to build something unique...somehow save the motor and build something different around it.

Is the ECU still good?
 
Im so very sorry.......................................................................................................
 
ouch! Breaks my heart to see that. I'm feeling for you! Very bad situation indeed.

I am sure you'll hate to hear this but realistically, as mentioned above, I think you are taking on a battle that will be very costly and very long. I mean every electronic or even electrical part is going to be suspect and could give you trouble in the future. Better with a diesel than a gas one pf course but still. And time is of the essence, everything should be dried or taken off ASAP.
Unless you have no insurance, and even loving the truck, personally I would think twice about tackling this one as replacement transportation means. One could get the insurance payment if there is one, buy the old truck back for scrap price if you can, buy another good one -or a cheap commuter car- and then have fun with the old truck as a unhurried hobby or as a parts source if that is something you'd enjoy for the challenge. Unfortunately, being a flooded truck, it's doubtful you would ever be able to sell it for what money you'd put in again. Most people would just not buy a flooded truck for anywhere close to regular used prices.
Most of us view these trucks as more than mere transportation of course, but there are times when it makes sense to walk away or look at alternative approaches.

Having said all, that, if you really want to do it and would enjoy it, best wishes and all the best of luck to you!
 
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That looks awful. I can see why UH8MUD. You’ll need to be an odd combination of brave, creative, and ignorant to save your truck. Brave because it will be long, hard, expensive job; creative because you’ll be breaking new ground with cleaning all the mud mess, and ignorant because if you and your mechanic knew now what you will know in the end, it seems likely you wouldn’t start. Here’s what I thought about, without searching MUD myself:


1. It wouldn’t take much to hydrolock a diesel. Is it ok to have poured oil in the cylinders? Oil or not, won't there be mud in there that will score the cylinder walls?

2. Mud in the turbo probably means a new turbo.

3. How about the valve train, since the cylinder head was open to mud when the cylinders flooded.

4. The exhaust may be mud-plugged

5. The HVAC cleaning will require disassembly of the dashboard. It will be more than just cleaning the fan and replacing the controls

6. If the flood occurred in July and the headliner, seats, carpets, mats, and insulation are still in the truck, you’ll probably be dealing with mold. The seats are bolted in and do come out. There are lots of trim clips to remove for access to the carpets and insulation.

7. All 5 doors will be full of mud, along with all the mechanisms and audio.

8. As mentioned before, every single electronic component and electrical device in the car that isn’t permanently sealed will be suspect for reliability, even if it works for now.

9. The timing belt cover is probably not sealed. That means taking the front covers off to thoroughly cleaned inside there. The belt itself and the pulleys/bearings may be ok, if they are as sealed as well as they are on my 4.7L gas engine.

10. The u-joints and wheel bearings are also sealed, but you’ll want to grease those for peace of mind.


Finally, I would suggest you give some thought to the sequence of cleaning, based on time and cost. You may run into something that is the tipping point for you to bail out on the job, and it would be best to find that out before you spend thousands.

Best of luck, whatever you decide. Tough situation to be in. The fact that you even want to try is tribute to the 100.
 
That looks awful. I can see why UH8MUD. You’ll need to be an odd combination of brave, creative, and ignorant to save your truck. Brave because it will be long, hard, expensive job; creative because you’ll be breaking new ground with cleaning all the mud mess, and ignorant because if you and your mechanic knew now what you will know in the end, it seems likely you wouldn’t start. Here’s what I thought about, without searching MUD myself:


1. It wouldn’t take much to hydrolock a diesel. Is it ok to have poured oil in the cylinders? Oil or not, won't there be mud in there that will score the cylinder walls?

2. Mud in the turbo probably means a new turbo.

3. How about the valve train, since the cylinder head was open to mud when the cylinders flooded.

4. The exhaust may be mud-plugged

5. The HVAC cleaning will require disassembly of the dashboard. It will be more than just cleaning the fan and replacing the controls

6. If the flood occurred in July and the headliner, seats, carpets, mats, and insulation are still in the truck, you’ll probably be dealing with mold. The seats are bolted in and do come out. There are lots of trim clips to remove for access to the carpets and insulation.

7. All 5 doors will be full of mud, along with all the mechanisms and audio.

8. As mentioned before, every single electronic component and electrical device in the car that isn’t permanently sealed will be suspect for reliability, even if it works for now.

9. The timing belt cover is probably not sealed. That means taking the front covers off to thoroughly cleaned inside there. The belt itself and the pulleys/bearings may be ok, if they are as sealed as well as they are on my 4.7L gas engine.

10. The u-joints and wheel bearings are also sealed, but you’ll want to grease those for peace of mind.


Finally, I would suggest you give some thought to the sequence of cleaning, based on time and cost. You may run into something that is the tipping point for you to bail out on the job, and it would be best to find that out before you spend thousands.

Best of luck, whatever you decide. Tough situation to be in. The fact that you even want to try is tribute to the 100.
 
Thanks to all.
Insurance here does not cover flooding. I even paid extra $ to cover "natural events" but I am told that does not include flooding. In the US you could sue the insurer for misrepresentation, but this is Italy... a joke.
Sorry to contradict you all, but no question that I'm going to restore the truck. I've started already and will do a large part of the work myself. It's a trial of life. I've lost everything in the flood, office, computers, furniture, warehouse, 3 cars. The Audi will have to go, too much electronics. But not the hundy, not this.
Will post pictures as we progress.
Reliability of electrics and electronics may be an issue in the future, time will tell.
However please my big problem is the lack of time since I'm engaged in the salvage work of everything, buildings included. I've no time to research FAQs.
If anyone can come up with links in reply to the specific questions I've posted, and any other useful tech tip, I'll be really grateful.
All the best.
 
I'm a little more optimistic.

It will be a LOT of work, but I think it can be done.

You will need to dismantle the dash and clean all of the electrics inside it. Some of it may not be salvageable and will need to be replaced. I suspect that the computers will be sealed units, but I'm not sure. Every electrical connection on the vehicle will need to be taken apart and cleaned. Use dielectric grease when you put the connectors back together. I would connect the battery until all of the electrics have been cleaned. Restoration companies have good success cleaning electronics in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Was there water/mud in the old oil. If so, wash the inside of the engine, including the valve train and inside the timing cover. Was there water/mud in the ATF. If there was I would suggest flushing a couple of times with a very light oil before putting in new ATF.

If the interior dried and does not smell of mold, then good. If it is moldy, remove and clean thoroughly or replace. Remove the door panels and wash the interiors of the doors. Likewise with the panels in the cargo area. Take out the seats and remove the carpet.

The AC system is closed so it should be OK but the duct work will need to cleaned, as well as the radiator and the heater core.

Starter and alt should also be OK after cleaning.

How long was the truck submerged. If you think about it, folks take the drive train of these trucks under water all the time with no adverse effects.

Good luck and update this thread often.
 
damn, bad news about the lack of insurance. Well, then, sure, go for it!

I guess your big fight is with corrosion: metal surfaces in and out, bolts, nuts, electrical connectors, electronics etc. I am no expert but I would say the main thing is to take apart as much as you can as fast as you can and to protect what can't be disassembled. And what you can't take apart readily, you may want to spray, lube, oil, whatever you can to buy some time. But of course you know all this already.
Do you at least have a place to park it and take it apart and let it stand for a while while you work on it?
Best of luck! And at least it's a Cruiser, it's tough!
 
Hi. Breaking new ground every day here.

VidereStudios
yes the ECU is still good. Electronics in the 100 as it turns out, are not sealed and not waterproof.
I’m learning something interesting, which may be useful to others.
In the frantic hours immediately following the flood, I had 3 vehicles towed to 3 different workshops. The Audi went to a young electronics wizard, official Bosch service shop. The 1960s Porsche 911 went to a classic car specialist, the Hundy went to my usual generalist mechanic, “electronics-shy” and not young.
He immediately started to take out ECU, dash, and all of electronics, washed and dried everything thoroughly. Although electronics-shy (or maybe because of that) it looks like he has saved all of them.
The young electronics wizard instead, changed the oil in the Audi, replaced the battery, gave current and f****d up everything. There is NOTHING working in the Audi now.

So the first lesson we learned is: never ever give current to wet electronics. Water causes short circuits and damages electronics irreparably. But if you take the time to clean and dry the parts (which means several days to dry out in a warm place with ventilation) water leaves no trace and no damage, in most cases.

And yes, I want to see this as the opportunity to start a new build. Australians have tuned the 1HDFTE to amazing levels. I am looking for instance to:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/nates-hdj100-build.645012/

Sandroad
thanks for the advice.
We took precautions to avoid hydrolocking the engine. We extracted the diesel injectors, took out water from the cylinders by a syringe with tube extension, poured oil in, and had the engine run passively, without fuel and without injectors, as in a gasoline engine without spark plugs.

As to the concern of mud in turbo, valves and cylinders, my guess is that maybe there is no mud. Water went in through the snorkel, passed though the air filter, hence maybe the mud was... filtered. The water we syringed out from the cylinders was clean.
On the exhaust side, water may have not reached the turbo, maybe there was airlock since the exhaust goes upwards from the muffler to the turbo.

The catalytic converter is probably stuck with mud and inefficient, if so I will be forced against my will (!), to order one of those Australian performance 3” non catalytic exhaust kits.
Leather seats have been cleaned and look fine. Replacement of mats and insulation will have to wait. It’s summertime and that helps to dry things out.

Take out the timing belt cover and clean: that’s a very good idea I didn't think of. I will report what we find inside.

I cannot find any greasing nipple for the wheel bearings. How it is done ?

45kevin
Yes we have dismantled dash, doors, everything. We are using CFC marine dielectric lubricant.

Yes, there was water in the engine oil, in the ATF fluid, in the fuel tank, in the brake fluid, everywhere.

I am not sure what you mean about the A/C system being closed. The compressor should be sealed and maybe it’s OK. But all of the ducts are filled with mud and it will take ages to dismantle and clean everything.
The truck was submerged about ten hours, until the flood recessed. Dismantling and cleaning of electronics was started same day.

e999
Yeah the big enemy is corrosion. So far I have to say that I’m surprised of the little or no rust I can see in the mechanics. It looks like we won’t need to take apart most of the mechanical parts, except as a precaution. The subtle corrosion in electrics and electronics is another matter, but at least we started very early on those.

Many thanks to everybody for the support.

Will start posting pictures as soon as we are out of the emergency phase.
 
That all sounds very promising.

The front and rear wheel bearings are packed with grease during assembly and there is no way to change the grease without taking them apart. Probably one of the less important tasks.

Keep us up to date on the condition of the 911 please.
 
I have a couple recommendations.
First all of the chassis wiring and connectors use seals so they ahould be ok. Wash them off and clean the contacts with isopropyl alcohol.

Most of connectors inside the body are not sealed. Wash them and clean with alcohol. The alcohol will help evaporate the water.

Remove as much of the interior as you can. Wash the carpets and seats in regular water and quickly dry.

Once most of the humid interior has been removed, use dessicants like silica gel (like the small packets in shoes) around all the wiring.

Start by powering up the truck by not connecting the ecus. Look for shorts w/o ecus. Fuses will pop if there are shorts.

Place the ecus in dessicant.

Ernesto
 
This thing needs to be flooded in fresh water with batteries disconnected :-/
 
??? Um. Does anyone else think I was trying to be funny? Must be Italian humor. I'm serious. You're basically needing to wash everything in fresh water at this point. Good luck. You could import another hundy at this point and probably be ahead financially. But, I admire your love for the truck. I accidentally dunked my Buick in a flood and it was relatively clean water in the road. I hydrolocked, but was able to drain oil, pop the plugs, empty the cylinders, and that car ran great after that. But, all the electronics were goofy. Really goofy. Finally auctioned the car.
 
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I didn't see Muddy's statement as humor. Dunking the LC in a swimming pool right after could probably help some =)

This is bad no matter how you look at it BUT.... I think a flash-flooded (fresh water and mud) vehicle will have a better chance of survival than the salt-water Katrina and Sandy vehicles.
 
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