Anytime the top of a tyre can clear the lower body section is good flexy flexy...
flexy flexy
- Thread starter CRUIZER DAN
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YES.
What I'm trying to do is nothing new to any bloke who has put on a front shock longer than the "L" shock of 26.3" ext. I tried the pulled pin mod & found out around 27" drop measured at the shock & full lock things start hitting. The picture below (as sitting in rig) the front left is dropped out & turning hard left, the right tyre is stuffed. Same results, visa versa. I have resently have been told to go back to OEM bushings & do a washed mod to get the arm away from the the tie rod even grinding away some metal in the conflicting area.
? Define strapping. Define four poster.
Do you mean bend it up to make it ark up more?
Haha yeah I imagine it would look a lot more flexy with shorter tires!
YES.
What I'm trying to do is nothing new to any bloke who has put on a front shock longer than the "L" shock of 26.3" ext. I tried the pulled pin mod & found out around 27" drop measured at the shock & full lock things start hitting. The picture below (as sitting in rig) the front left is dropped out & turning hard left, the right tyre is stuffed. Same results, visa versa. I have resently have been told to go back to OEM bushings & do a washed mod to get the arm away from the the tie rod even grinding away some metal in the conflicting area.
? Define strapping. Define four poster.
Do you mean bend it up to make it ark up more?
Move your steering to the front of the axel. No more threading the relay rod...
It moves the "problem" to something else mind you.
Just keep chasing that rabbet!
Moving the rod up front is an option.
It's not a new thought.
Ammo do you have a build thread, if you do will link it in your signature for others to also learn from your jurney. Most mud veterans don't have build threads to refer back to. I guess it wasn't cool back in the day to have a thread.
I just hate repeating the same mistakes others have allready learned from years back ie the rabbit hole comment.
I respect & will listen to any mud veterans advise with my current jurney.
Moving the rod up front is an option.
It's not a new thought.
Ammo do you have a build thread, if you do will link it in your signature for others to also learn from your jurney. Most mud veterans don't have build threads to refer back to. I guess it wasn't cool back in the day to have a thread.
I hear ya man... It's not that it wasn't "cool" there used to be a "ROTW" (Rig of The Week) thread. At least there was one in the SoCal 80's club house back in the day.
I don't think my turn ever came up, and then I had to step away for a about 4-5yrs when I moved over to HI and left the rig on the mainland. 4 years of web wheeling... With occasional trips back to sneak in a trail here and there. Toss in a cross country drive with a wheel bearing failure, I've been places and done some stuff.
At this point I've forgotten more of the mods then I can document
Happy to help when I can tho. Funds and time seem less available the older I get for this addiction, I'm sure others can relate
Moving the steering = "T or Y" link would be the easy "next step" or... You get into cross over, hi steer land and then you move panhard locations ect.
-A
I'm new here. How many of you guys actually run with swaybars disconnected? Does it make a substantial difference on and offroad?
AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
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We use a heavy ratchet srtep to hold the housing down so vehicle doesnt lift up.
4 poster is a 4 post flat hoist the vehicle sits on at ride height.
And yes, we bend it up to give more clearance.
OME 863s/850s with Icon shocks. Front sway bar disco'd. The rear is working well, but with the incline of the obstacle it doesn't look like there's enough weight on the front to really cycle the suspension much.
Running with no sway bar in front gives more freedom, but you will sway more... I see no benifit in disconnecting the rear sway bar. In fact @AutoCraft Aus just wrote above they install a thicker stiffer rear sway bar.
Just play with yours, you will find what works best for you.
AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
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With the Stage 6 Shooter set up, we find with the added high gas pressure of the 2.5 montubes, the effect to combat roll steer on the road is like adding a 100-120% heavier sway bar on road, and doesn't need disconnecting offroad.
I have the smaller early pre 91 model sway bars on mine right now, trying that, and have found even with the front end set up with 45 minutes neg camber, 17" rims and 35s, and 3.5 caster, so its very "pointy" in the front, that it sits flat, wont pick up a wheel on turn in, even if jumping it off the kerbs on the inside at the apex, the front will just up and down, the rear you cant tell went up and down the kerb, and it doesnt upset the car as it runs round the corner jumping the kerb.
This means less roll steer from the back as it doesnt lean, and is similar to having fatter sway bar to do the same thing.
The other night even, turning in hard across 2 lanes downhill at a roundabout, while braking hard slowing down from 70 mph for the turn, as I turned in while trail braking, the rear began to slide on the tar as I turned in, and had to catch it while releasing some brake pressure, to make the turn. It did this without roll steering, on 35s, 3" lift.
Currently looking at balance between 180 and 250 psi shock pressures, in 1 or both fronts, and higher tyre pressures, to keep the awesome ride, but not be wearing the outer tyre edges so hard, even with 45 minutes neg camber, as we are scrubbing the tread blocks of the MTR kevlars for 1" down the edge of the tread block at 35 psi when it turns in.
Darren, it sounds like your are building a race car... but I'm sure your 80 can handle like one.
You wrote pre 91, is that a 60 series front sway that thinner?
Would a lighter front & stiffer rear help roll steer?
You wrote pre 91, is that a 60 series front sway that thinner?
Would a lighter front & stiffer rear help roll steer?
AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
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No race car, just an #ultimatetourer .
Our pre 91 models got smaller sway bars with the taller ride height, smaller flares, and lower bump stops to the later models.
95 on and 105s got fatter bars again.
Our pre 91 models got smaller sway bars with the taller ride height, smaller flares, and lower bump stops to the later models.
95 on and 105s got fatter bars again.
Nice, please tell us your set up.
Control arms on top... looks real close to BigBoy's rig.
****
About this thread, Hmm... doesnt it seem about 2 pages are completely gone. I guess it went to comercial.
Radius arm flip.
Front
5" Flexi coils
Fox 2.5 remote reservoir shocks 14" travel
Flipped radius arms
Caster correction plates
Diff housing strengthened
Nitro gears, solid pinion spacer, etc
TJM front air locker
Modified pan hard bracket
Hellfire fabworks hi steer
Custom extended brake lines
Custom rotors
Rebuilt calipers with upgraded pistons, seals etc
Rear
Fully built diff housing
Modified pan hard bracket
TJM air locker
Modified upper control arm brackets
Modified lower control arm brackets on chassis
Custom upper and lower control arms
5" Flexi coils
Fox 2.5 remorse reservoir shocks
Custom extended brake lines
Custom rotors
Rebuilt calipers with upgraded pistons, seals etc
I've probably missed a few things but that's most of the upgrades. Front has more in it, unfortunately the ditch we found wasn't big enough
Drives great with no steering shake at speed. Still a work in progress. Have to fit AOE front bumper, Slee rear bar, sliders and measure for limit straps.
Will be doing some trimming soon to make way for 37's.
Yes, I had BigBoy do the work. Extremely happy with the final outcome.
Cheers,
Have you already got the AOE bar? If not I have a fabricator on the gold coast that has CAD drawn up to manufacture already, as I got stuffed around by Alex for so long, it was easier to get it made from scratch. New Outcast Offroad | FacebookFront
5" Flexi coils
Fox 2.5 remote reservoir shocks 14" travel
Flipped radius arms
Caster correction plates
Diff housing strengthened
Nitro gears, solid pinion spacer, etc
TJM front air locker
Modified pan hard bracket
Hellfire fabworks hi steer
Custom extended brake lines
Custom rotors
Rebuilt calipers with upgraded pistons, seals etc
Rear
Fully built diff housing
Modified pan hard bracket
TJM air locker
Modified upper control arm brackets
Modified lower control arm brackets on chassis
Custom upper and lower control arms
5" Flexi coils
Fox 2.5 remorse reservoir shocks
Custom extended brake lines
Custom rotors
Rebuilt calipers with upgraded pistons, seals etc
I've probably missed a few things but that's most of the upgrades. Front has more in it, unfortunately the ditch we found wasn't big enough
Drives great with no steering shake at speed. Still a work in progress. Have to fit AOE front bumper, Slee rear bar, sliders and measure for limit straps.
Will be doing some trimming soon to make way for 37's.
Yes, I had BigBoy do the work. Extremely happy with the final outcome.
Cheers,
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
AOE has been having some issues. Might want to look elsewhere.
@Rob1983 has solved that problem by finding a fabricator who can duplicate the AOE bumper. You can look here for pictures Alex Carvallo at AOE stole $900 from me !
