Flashing Center Diff Lock Light 200 Series (3 Viewers)

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@linuxgod did replacement of actuator fix the intermittent flashing center diff.

We are in Chicago land. It rained and cooler last night and got the flashing center Diff. This first time ever.
Yep
 
I had a flashing CDL when I bought the car a year ago. What I suggest all of you to do is operate the 4Lo and the CDL (while standing in Neutral) at least once a week.
It prevents the grease in the motor mechanism to become a clogged jelly and frees the 2 actuators shafts.
Just play with both CDL and 4Lo in all combinations. I added this ritual to my warmup procedure after starting the engine.
Good luck.
 
I had a flashing CDL when I bought the car a year ago. What I suggest all of you to do is operate the 4Lo and the CDL (while standing in Neutral) at least once a week.
It prevents the grease in the motor mechanism to become a clogged jelly and frees the 2 actuators shafts.
Just play with both CDL and 4Lo in all combinations. I added this ritual to my warmup procedure after starting the engine.
Good luck.

Good suggestion but I would recommend driving the car a bit and getting everything warmed up before doing it. Many days you have to just to get the light to stop flashing so you can even activate 4LO and the CDL.
 
Good suggestion but I would recommend driving the car a bit and getting everything warmed up before doing it. Many days you have to just to get the light to stop flashing so you can even activate 4LO and the CDL.
Yep. I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but I had issues with the CDL and L4 not engaging. They’d just flash every time I tried. CDL light would come on and flash when starting the truck on a cold morning. So every day, I’d turn both on after the truck was warmed up from taking the kids to school. I started this after swapping diffs and TC oil. It didn’t take too many days in a row of daily exercise before they started behaving properly. Not a single issue since.
 
When my gremlin didn't let me shift back out of low range, I disconnected the battery and it immediately worked.
P
 
One more date point on this issue: 2015 w/ 113,000 miles. I never use the diff lock or low gears, maybe once every 3-6 months I engage them just to cycle them. Well, two days in a row in the morning I got the blinking diff light. Went away when warm like others report. I put the LC on a battery charger overnight and the problem has gone away for three days now. Weather here has been the same the entire time.
 
One more date point on this issue: 2015 w/ 113,000 miles. I never use the diff lock or low gears, maybe once every 3-6 months I engage them just to cycle them. Well, two days in a row in the morning I got the blinking diff light. Went away when warm like others report. I put the LC on a battery charger overnight and the problem has gone away for three days now. Weather here has been the same the entire time.
May be time for a new battery...
 
I thought I would post here, explain my symptoms and see if someone could help me troubleshoot.
I recently deleted the AHC suspension on my 2015 LX570 w/112,000 on the ODO.
After replacing the front suspension, my diff light started blinking, and I also have the VSC & ABS light on, on my dash as well.
When I went to reconnect the passenger side knuckle, I had to manipulate the rotor in order to bring the knuckle closer to the UCA so I could bolt them back together.
The vehicle drives fine, and even with the diff light blinking, I can still switch back and forth between 4hi & 4lo and 4lo works.
When I push the diff light button, I hear something electronic wise from the front passenger side trying to work, but the light keeps blinking.

This past Tuesday, I took my LX to the Toyota dealership for an alignment. I told the service advisor about the lights on my dash, and he showed the mechanic who works on the Land Cruisers at the dealershio my dash. The mechanic took my vehicle for a drive after the alignment, and told the service advisor, to have me inspect my ABS wire connectors, and too take my LX out on some dirt & gravel roads and run it in 4lo for a while, and too try shifting back and forth between drive and reverse to see if it loosens everything up.
The service advisor said the mechanic would rather have me try that first, before they charge me for 2hrs of service diagnostic work @ $180.00/hr just to hook the vehicle up to techstream and read the code.

Is it possible my ABS sensor wire got stretched out and this is causing my diff, VSC & ABS lights to go off? Or is it possible when I manipulated the front rotor to get the knuckle into place, that it could have done something to my CV axle which in turn triggered the blinking diff light?
 
I thought I would post here, explain my symptoms and see if someone could help me troubleshoot.
I recently deleted the AHC suspension on my 2015 LX570 w/112,000 on the ODO.
After replacing the front suspension, my diff light started blinking, and I also have the VSC & ABS light on, on my dash as well.
When I went to reconnect the passenger side knuckle, I had to manipulate the rotor in order to bring the knuckle closer to the UCA so I could bolt them back together.
The vehicle drives fine, and even with the diff light blinking, I can still switch back and forth between 4hi & 4lo and 4lo works.
When I push the diff light button, I hear something electronic wise from the front passenger side trying to work, but the light keeps blinking.

This past Tuesday, I took my LX to the Toyota dealership for an alignment. I told the service advisor about the lights on my dash, and he showed the mechanic who works on the Land Cruisers at the dealershio my dash. The mechanic took my vehicle for a drive after the alignment, and told the service advisor, to have me inspect my ABS wire connectors, and too take my LX out on some dirt & gravel roads and run it in 4lo for a while, and too try shifting back and forth between drive and reverse to see if it loosens everything up.
The service advisor said the mechanic would rather have me try that first, before they charge me for 2hrs of service diagnostic work @ $180.00/hr just to hook the vehicle up to techstream and read the code.

Is it possible my ABS sensor wire got stretched out and this is causing my diff, VSC & ABS lights to go off? Or is it possible when I manipulated the front rotor to get the knuckle into place, that it could have done something to my CV axle which in turn triggered the blinking diff light?
I bet you broke the wire. VSC and ABS both use the wheel speed sensor. The flashing diff light I think indicates “there’s a problem measuring wheel speed which will affect the ability for the center diff to operate correctly”. I highly suspect you CV is fine
 
I bet you broke the wire. VSC and ABS both use the wheel speed sensor. The flashing diff light I think indicates “there’s a problem measuring wheel speed which will affect the ability for the center diff to operate correctly”. I highly suspect you CV is fine
Ok. Do you by chance know if I am able to use a multimeter to check and see which side has a possible broken wire? Or would my best bet to take the vehicle to O'reilly's or AutoZone and have them scan for the code? I tried thru the torque app w/ my OBD II but no codes are showing up.
What codes are being thrown?
When I scan for codes thru Torque app it tells me, "No faults are found in the ECU."
 
Ok. Do you by chance know if I am able to use a multimeter to check and see which side has a possible broken wire? Or would my best bet to take the vehicle to O'reilly's or AutoZone and have them scan for the code? I tried thru the torque app w/ my OBD II but no codes are showing up.

When I scan for codes thru Torque app it tells me, "No faults are found in the ECU."

I am not sure about the torque app and it may depend on the reader you use, but there should be an ABS specific test that would catch anything. I would assume it would indicate a fault if you broke the wire, at least indicating which side. I may be wrong though. I have OBDLink and can run diagnostics on ABS specifically.

If your reader and software don’t have that option then it would certainly be easier to take it somewhere that can test it before you go through the trouble of manual inspection.
 
This is the OBD II reader I am using. I live 5 mins from AutoZone, so I'm just going to take her up there and see if they can run a scan and see if an ABS code pops up. The good thing is, is that I already ordered the ABS sensor wire's for the both sides, and they are on standby at the dealership if I need to pick them up.

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I think you need to find someone with Techstream to pull codes, I don't think Autozone's scanner is going to be any better than yours- need to pull Toyota specific codes.
 
I think you need to find someone with Techstream to pull codes, I don't think Autozone's scanner is going to be any better than yours- need to pull Toyota specific codes.
I agree with finding someone with Techstream. I'm going to post and see if I can find someone local to me who can help. Because like I mentioned, the dealership was going to charge me 2hrs @ $180/hr just to hookup to TS and run a scan.
 
I agree with finding someone with Techstream. I'm going to post and see if I can find someone local to me who can help. Because like I mentioned, the dealership was going to charge me 2hrs @ $180/hr just to hookup to TS and run a scan.
Do try driving it like they recommended though too! You’d be surprised what might get “fixed” just by engaging the system properly.
 
Do try driving it like they recommended though too! You’d be surprised what might get “fixed” just by engaging the system properly.
Yes most definitely! I really hope it's just something simple, like the actuator is gunked up or the ABS wire is stretched and needs replaced. Like I mentioned above, even with the diff light blinking, I can still drive and switch back and forth between 4hi & 4lo, and when I push the diff switch, I hear something electrical wise trying to work.

I took her out to a gravel pit at the scrap yard by me. I only spent 10 mins out there driving around though.
I plan to take her out tomorrow to an area in the county that is nothing but dirt & gravel roads, and spend a good hour out there driving around in 4lo in forward and reverse.
Last weekend, after I put the suspension on and took it for a test drive, was the first time I had put the vehicle in 4lo since I bought it back in Sept 2023. Man you should have heard it when I switched to 4lo...it was the "previous owner never used 4lo sound. "🤣
 
Yes most definitely! I really hope it's just something simple, like the actuator is gunked up or the ABS wire is stretched and needs replaced. Like I mentioned above, even with the diff light blinking, I can still drive and switch back and forth between 4hi & 4lo, and when I push the diff switch, I hear something electrical wise trying to work.

I took her out to a gravel pit at the scrap yard by me. I only spent 10 mins out there driving around though.
I plan to take her out tomorrow to an area in the county that is nothing but dirt & gravel roads, and spend a good hour out there driving around in 4lo in forward and reverse.
Last weekend, after I put the suspension on and took it for a test drive, was the first time I had put the vehicle in 4lo since I bought it back in Sept 2023. Man you should have heard it when I switched to 4lo...it was the "previous owner never used 4lo sound. "🤣
It’s amazing how many people never even engage their four-wheel-drive honestly.
 
AutoZone was able to run an ABS scan on my LX. Two codes popped up:
C1405 : Open or short in the front speed side right hand circuit.
C1445 : Vehicle driven with steering angle sensor not initialized.

Time to swing by the dealership and pickup that passenger side ABS sensor wire I ordered.
 
Found the problem as soon as I removed the tire...smh! And of course, it's broken off flush with the hub, and doesn't want to budge. Man, I swear Murphy's law is in full effect lol.

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