FJ80 Won't Start (Red Low Voltage light)

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Joined
Jul 5, 2017
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1
Messages
4
Location
Raleigh, NC
I drove my '92 FJ80 to work this morning and had no issues. Then when I went to start again I get nothing.

Has a new battery, I hear a slight buzzing but nothing else. Radio comes on and there's the red light above the battery gauge showing low voltage (or maybe security system? Car didn't come with a fob).

Any ideas?
 
Sounds like the battery didn't get a good charge or something was left on while you were at work. Alternator, possibly? When my battery is critically low, the door beep can sound like a strained buzzing.
 
The red light means the alternator isn't working. With the engine off that is to be expected.

Check the battery and fusible links?
 
Thanks for jumping in guys.

Got a jump and it started right up. Took it by Advance Auto and they tested the battery and alternator. Alternator was putting out 13.7 Amps (which seems good?) and CCA (Cold Crank Amperage) was at the rated level (830).

He suggested that the cause might be a bad starter solenoid? Either that or there's a loose wire somewhere bleeding current.

Fusible link seems OK
 
IIRC, the alt should be somewhere around 14.5 (+/- .2v). I don't know that it's the problem here, though. I'd check the wiring between the starter and the battery, and order another fusible link anyway. They can and sometimes do burn out while looking like they're in good condition. A fusible link is like $15 from Wit's End (@NLXTACY) and gives you piece of mind.
 
Feel your pain man, been dealing with this for a while. Hope the Fusible Links help, but 90% they won't. There are a couple of threads on here regarding a solenoid "booster". Evidently this solves the issue, good luck.
 
I drove my '92 FJ80 to work this morning and had no issues. Then when I went to start again I get nothing.

Has a new battery, I hear a slight buzzing but nothing else. Radio comes on and there's the red light above the battery gauge showing low voltage (or maybe security system? Car didn't come with a fob).

Any ideas?
I have the same problem and I cannot figure it out. I hear buzzing noise coming down from a circuit panel. + my headlights do not work and I cannot put the car in neutral (car does not start but cranks) help me out please !
 
I have the same problem and I cannot figure it out. I hear buzzing noise coming down from a circuit panel. + my headlights do not work and I cannot put the car in neutral (car does not start but cranks) help me out please !
Since you're new, what year and what engine is in your truck?

The person you replied to got on here and back off in 2017, so the rest of us will attempt to help.

Initial read says your battery is low on voltage. What is the voltage across the terminals?
 
Since you're new, what year and what engine is in your truck?

The person you replied to got on here and back off in 2017, so the rest of us will attempt to help.

Initial read says your battery is low on voltage. What is the voltage across the terminals?
1991 Toyota Land Cruiser fj80 efi, I haven’t tested the battery out but it’s pretty new and so is the alternator. Dashboard shows A/T oil temp, the red battery box, and brake
 
1991 Toyota Land Cruiser fj80 efi, I haven’t tested the battery out but it’s pretty new and so is the alternator. Dashboard shows A/T oil temp, the red battery box, and brake
Is this a Toyota reman alternator or an O'Reilly's (or equivalent) unit?

Need to check the voltage on the battery to confirm.

Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) with the engine off, key in RUN position?
 
Is this a Toyota reman alternator or an O'Reilly's (or equivalent) unit?

Need to check the voltage on the battery to confirm.

Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) with the engine off, key in RUN position?
Alternator is from auto zone duralast
And will check the voltage asap
And no the cel is not on when off or when it’s on ACC
 
Alternator is from auto zone duralast
And will check the voltage asap
And no the cel is not on when off or when it’s on ACC
I'm asking if the CEL is on when the key is in the RUN position (not OFF or ACC position)

It's SUPPOSED to be ON in the RUN position when the engine is NOT running. This indicates the ECU has everything it needs to run. If no CEL, it will not run until those things are satisfied. This is an initial diagnostic tool for us.

There have been many here that have bought the aftermarket reman alternators that have had issues out of the box or shortly after. Just saying that because even though it's "new" it can still be suspect. Most of us have better luck with Toyota Reman units.
 
A cheap aftermarket alternator should still work and definitely get your 80s started, how long it will last is another story. With that said, if your CEL is not on at start up, then most likely your ecu is not getting the signal from the starter. You can bypass the 12v signal wire from the neutral safety switch and ignition start by jumping 12v to the solenoid of the starter...I ended up running a ford Solenoid to get 12v to the starter and it has been working flawlessly since. Also a bad alternator will have parasitic draw to your system and drain your battery. Ask me how i know. good luck.
 
if your CEL is not on at start up, then most likely your ecu is not getting the signal from the starter.
The ECU never sees anything from the starter. 2 completely different circuits.
If you download the 3FE EFI troubleshooting flowchart from the resources section, it gives a step by step diagnostic.
 
The ECU never sees anything from the starter. 2 completely different circuits.
If you download the 3FE EFI troubleshooting flowchart from the resources section, it gives a step by step diagnostic.
I found my problem, the throttle was too tight and had to be adjusted I guess. But I think it’s a bit too accelerated
 
I found my problem, the throttle was too tight and had to be adjusted I guess. But I think it’s a bit too accelerated
I assume you mean the throttle cable?
There should be slack in the cable when the throttle plate is in the idle position.
The correct way to adjust the throttle cable (with the engine off) is to have someone floor the accelerator pedal and adjust the cable until the throttle plate is just at the endstop for WOT. It makes no difference if there is slack at the idle position because the ECU controls idle speed.
Proper idle speed at normal operating temp should be 650 rpm.
 

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