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- Thread starter
- #3
Removed:
- Radiator
- AC cooler
- Light panel
- Bullbar
- Belts
This is my first "real" Landcruiser as I had prados before. It was very easy to work on. Everything were bolted and nothing welded.
It does take time.
- Radiator
- AC cooler
- Light panel
- Bullbar
- Belts
This is my first "real" Landcruiser as I had prados before. It was very easy to work on. Everything were bolted and nothing welded.
It does take time.
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- Thread starter
- #4
I was going to fabricate a pulley holder until saw them only $30 at Sydney Tools. Makes removing the huge nut easy.
46mm socket and impact gun to release the big nut (not bolt!) Then use a harmonic balancer puller
46mm socket and impact gun to release the big nut (not bolt!) Then use a harmonic balancer puller
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- Thread starter
- #5
Remove the timing cover (keep bolts in order as they are different sizes) and here we can see the problem.
I align the new timing gear cam notch against the old one.
Where the old one's dot marker align with steel gear, the new one is almost 90deg out!!
Hence the old timing gear has rotated on its own steel centre. There was no broken teeth.
As a result the timings were all off and all cylinders could not compress.
I initiallly suspected this issue after reading the forum post here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Mine is not bad as his, as he could wiggle the fibre part by hand. Mine was still tight, just out of alignment.
I align the new timing gear cam notch against the old one.
Where the old one's dot marker align with steel gear, the new one is almost 90deg out!!
Hence the old timing gear has rotated on its own steel centre. There was no broken teeth.
As a result the timings were all off and all cylinders could not compress.
I initiallly suspected this issue after reading the forum post here:
I'm not crazy... 3fe cam gear slipped 10 degrees
So, this is my first LC and I am sure some of you have seen my post on my 3fe lack of power. I went through all the baseline parts, replaced almost all the fuel injection parts, checked fuel pressure. Timed it and timed again. Compression and leak down test finally(I should have looked here...
forum.ih8mud.com
Mine is not bad as his, as he could wiggle the fibre part by hand. Mine was still tight, just out of alignment.
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- Thread starter
- #6
Finally pulled the Timing Cam after some minor "drama".
The cylindrical valve lifter would not come out although the service manual simply say to pull them out using a wire.
The lifters would slide very easily but when pulled out it would stuck. So perhaps the bottom part has enlarged or "mushroomed" due to age
So I simply lift them high enough using pliers. And when that wasn't strong enough used a motorbike brake caliper puller to wiggle them high enough
Apparently this is a common issue. There are some instructions on Youtube if need to really take them out
The cylindrical valve lifter would not come out although the service manual simply say to pull them out using a wire.
The lifters would slide very easily but when pulled out it would stuck. So perhaps the bottom part has enlarged or "mushroomed" due to age
So I simply lift them high enough using pliers. And when that wasn't strong enough used a motorbike brake caliper puller to wiggle them high enough
Apparently this is a common issue. There are some instructions on Youtube if need to really take them out
516,000 km... amazing. How's she been running otherwise?
Loving this in-depth dive into your repair.
- Thread starter
- #8
Very well actually. Didnt expect anything unusual. I have a video of it just few weeks ago:
i have the same Km as you, and also like you mines been running great,
so i ordered a timing gear !
so i ordered a timing gear !
Ah, this brings back some memories...and a little PTSDView attachment 3283950
I initiallly suspected this issue after reading the forum post here:
I'm not crazy... 3fe cam gear slipped 10 degrees
So, this is my first LC and I am sure some of you have seen my post on my 3fe lack of power. I went through all the baseline parts, replaced almost all the fuel injection parts, checked fuel pressure. Timed it and timed again. Compression and leak down test finally(I should have looked here...
Mine is not bad as his, as he could wiggle the fibre part by hand. Mine was still tight, just out of alignment.
. Glad my post could help someone out and like you I am surprised this is not seen more often given the number of high mileage 3F's in the world and a critical component made of plastic and metal.
guess it just supports the idea that Toyota engineers know what their doing
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- #12
Ah, this brings back some memories...and a little PTSD
Indeed! First I didn't realise that the timing gear wasn't solid metal (anymore) then I found out this was never mentioned in the official Toyota service manual. Had this been a scheduled replacement every 300,000km or so it would have never been an issue.
So yes, your experience had helped me *a lot* as I was scratching my head what could be wrong.
Even the first symptom you mentioned - cylinder 1 & 6 rocker positioning - was enough to give me "a..ha!"
Thanks again
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- #13
- Thread starter
- #14
Inspection of the camshaft reveals amazing condition at 1/2 million km!
I invested $150 for a small shop press to take out the timing gear. I have read other method involving chisel etc. with the cam installed but having seen how tight it is pressed I'm glad I took this path. Plus considering other future use of the tool. A 19mm socket was perfect to push out the gear
I initially use the fibre part to push against, expecting an easy push. However it was very tight and I didn't want to break the fibre.
I then rested it against the thrust washer and it was fine and didn't damage/bend the washer.
I invested $150 for a small shop press to take out the timing gear. I have read other method involving chisel etc. with the cam installed but having seen how tight it is pressed I'm glad I took this path. Plus considering other future use of the tool. A 19mm socket was perfect to push out the gear
I initially use the fibre part to push against, expecting an easy push. However it was very tight and I didn't want to break the fibre.
I then rested it against the thrust washer and it was fine and didn't damage/bend the washer.
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unrelated Q,,, do you have points in the distributor over there or electronic?
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- #16
The original points
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- #17
Another photo showing the slipped old timing gear.
I guess I am "lucky" that the slip is quite significant and simply stops the engine from working.
Had it only slipped a bit like 10-15 deg, the engine might still be running continuously -- but with long term damage like burning valves etc.
I guess I am "lucky" that the slip is quite significant and simply stops the engine from working.
Had it only slipped a bit like 10-15 deg, the engine might still be running continuously -- but with long term damage like burning valves etc.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Is it fair to say, this is a “interference “ engine? No bent valves, pushrods or piston damage? The crank had to have made a few revolutions before it stopped running.
- Thread starter
- #19
You mean "non-interference"? Yes. when the pistons are at their TDC they don't hit the valves. At least that's what I read about 3F and my experience.
I did read some ppl who lost their timing still could bend their valves when running on the freeway. Perhaps at a higher RPM the valve float is enough to hit the pistons. Not sure.
