- Thread starter
- #21
As I said before. My dads FJ62 is an 89 as well and has NEVER done this.
FJ62's Overheating. Several of us don't know why. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter CruisD64
- Start date
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Mine does this as well, but I'm waiting to get a new water pump and replacement hoses so I can do those immediately after a full system flush and see if that makes any difference. Yesterday at ~75 for a long (level) highway stretch my gauge got up to just barely below the overheat point by the time I exited to finish my commute home. Granted it was 113F outside at the time, this is the first time in many years that I've noticed it get that hot. Last summer in the heat it would get warmer than normal, but not as warm as it did yesterday.
This was with my AC off as well, so there wasn't the "pre-warmed" air from the condenser going through the radiator.
This was with my AC off as well, so there wasn't the "pre-warmed" air from the condenser going through the radiator.
CaptHamster
TLCA #19645
Following this thread for sure, I am having an identical issue to the OP however I ditched the A440F for an H55F and am still seeing high temps even without the hot automatic overwhelming the radiator.
Exactly my situation as well.
CaptHamster
TLCA #19645
Glad to know I'm not alone here. Wondering if it would be worth flushing the block, I have read mixed opinions. I have seen some people say not to flush it at all as disturbing any sediment could end up causing more problems (clogging water jacket passages, etc) but I have also read that running standard green coolant in a system that originally had Toyota red coolant without properly flushing the system can create this jelly-like substance that clogs up passages in the water jacket. The only thing left untouched in my 62's cooling system is the block, everything else has been replaced or serviced.
- Thread starter
- #26
A while ago there was a guy in San Carlos, CA that did chemical flushes (not harmful) through the block. He used a pump and circulated through the block in both directions with some chemical. Rinse and repeat. I'm thinking I'll do something similar.
This is the shop that does it. I'll try reaching out to them and find out the best way.
This is the shop that does it. I'll try reaching out to them and find out the best way.
- Thread starter
- #27
Anyone know. Is there an advantage to using hte Toyota red coolant over just the Peak 50/50 or don't bother?
- Thread starter
- #28
Is it possible your fan clutch gave out? Try spinning it and see how tight it is.
Been running a Ford Contour dual electric fan for years, but I verified early on that that's functioning perfectly still so for me that's not the issue here. I think it's just maintenance due. If after the cooling system flush I still have high temps, I'll invest in a Ron Davis radiator.
@CaptHamster I'll be doing a chemical flush using the Prestone solution. Two flushes to ensure ANY sediment is removed, then as many as needed with pure distilled water to flush all the solution out completely, replace the water pump, and fill with Toyota Red (which I've always used). My intention is to do it over the course of a weekend.
- Thread starter
- #31
I've changed the title of this thread since it's more appropriate. "FJ62's Overheating. Several of us don't know why."
rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
Go back to a stock rad,
I have used a couple aluminum ones and I prefer to not use them
they cool off quick, but also heat up quick vs the stock brass that’s stays cooler longer
I’ve seen and had better results with staying cool sticking with the stock radiators.
They are a stout and as about big as you can get already. 4 core factory if I remember correctly
Derby car world experience says don’t take your thermostat out, the coolant has to much flow and won’t cool down. We weighed remove the thermostats and weld in washers to reduce the flow so it would have time to cool off in the rad
I have used a couple aluminum ones and I prefer to not use them
they cool off quick, but also heat up quick vs the stock brass that’s stays cooler longer
I’ve seen and had better results with staying cool sticking with the stock radiators.
They are a stout and as about big as you can get already. 4 core factory if I remember correctly
Derby car world experience says don’t take your thermostat out, the coolant has to much flow and won’t cool down. We weighed remove the thermostats and weld in washers to reduce the flow so it would have time to cool off in the rad
rhah
Admit it, your cruisers jealous
None..... it’s like drinking Pepsi vs coke
you can flush your system yourself, a garden hose goes a long ways. Yes they make fancy flushes to sell, but they are also trying to sell their flush products and services.
air bubbles are more important than anything else, nose it sky high and start burping
do you have a fan shroud? Can’t remember
are you using a FACTORY NipponDenso Rad Cap ?
or
a ROCK AUTO aftermarket type one ?
does it have the 0.9 and the ND logos stamped on it
or
a ROCK AUTO aftermarket type one ?
does it have the 0.9 and the ND logos stamped on it
Kind of what I was thinking as well, hence wanting to do necessary maintenance before changing anything from stock.
@ToyotaMatt I'm running one!
Exhausting Sherlock Holmes stuff been done already. Pull the spark plugs, take pics, report back/share.
If they look good, only other thing I can think of is that it’s got the Rona and needs vaccination
!
Are your belts tight? I have had this issue under load on my 80 and turned out to be my belts.
If they look good, only other thing I can think of is that it’s got the Rona and needs vaccination
!Are your belts tight? I have had this issue under load on my 80 and turned out to be my belts.
CLOGGED Converters can cause excessive back pressure and heat build up too
a free to diagnose as good topic too
a free to diagnose as good topic too
Gretsch
SILVER Star
This sounds like its too simple to be a solution, but nothing has helped my cooling more than doing the above. Anytime I even look at the cooling system, it requires weeks of burping and running the engine to get things to cool down again. With a working fan clutch, and proper burping, these things will get cool. HTH.
I have a similar problem on my fj62, gauge reads one line below the red idling and pulling hills, I’m not sure how hot that is but I’ve yet to hear the valves clatter which should happen if it gets really hot. I’ve wondered if these long cast iron heads don’t need some deburring in the chambers on all the sharp edges to eliminate places to get hot. Sure works on dirt track iron head motors.
im going to continue to drive it without a care in the world because it’s LS time shortly!
im going to continue to drive it without a care in the world because it’s LS time shortly!
