FJ62 Thermostat and Water Pump...

[dbla]

You can use a T of some sort if you wish but not necessary unless you are having specific heater (or lack thereof) problems.

I think you are stacking too many things.
1. do all the work, ALL the work you have slated (belts, hoses, water pump, radiator, etc)
2. make sure everything is tightened up and bolted down and adjusted. Remember you left your thermostat out so you will have to install and tighten this later.
3. fill radiator with water from a hose or something as long as it's clean water. Fill the reservoir with water if it is empty. I added a Prestone cooling system cleaner at this point.
4. Run the engine with radiator cap on and radiator closed. no water going in and none coming out. Add water if necessary to the reservoir.
5. put heater controls on high. can't remember how long to run the engine (check the Prestone flush bottle) but watch the temperature gauge.
6. drain radiator, refill with water or more coolant flush and repeat until you are satisfied with the clarity of the water coming out of the bottom of the radiator.
7. close radiator drain. install thermostat you left out earlier and don't forget the gaskets inside and out.
8 final refill with correct antifreeze and distilled water mix or just use pre-mixed antifreeze. don't forget the reservoir. leave radiator cap off.
9. uncap the reservoir and tether the hose to the hood so it is higher than the radiator cap. you need a wide mouth funnel that will fit in the radiator cap opening as best you can make it fit.
10. fire the engine up, check for leaks with flashlight and watch the coolant level in the radiator. give the upper hose a squeeze here and there to help burp the air out of the system.

You may have to start and stop several times if the temperature rises too high but eventually the coolant level will drop in the radiator and you will need to add coolant to replace the escaping air.
When the level has not changed for a while and the temperature gauge has become stable put the reservoir cap back on (making sure the reservoir itself is topped off)
You will probably need to add coolant again as all the air never gets out the first time but seems to work it's way out on it's own.
I know it sounds drawn out and complicated but it is really not so bad.
Others have done it differently I am sure. I am fairly new to Cruisers myself but hove found a lot of help on here.
Other's will chime in if I am misguiding you.
Now get your ass to work!

Okay this is helpful. Two clarifying questions...

One, is coolant sucked up from the overflow tank? I've never observed that happening so maybe I'm just missing it?

Two, you're suggesting I replaced all the components prior to flushing??

Thanks!

-a

 

[Saucerman]

Yes, replace everything first. You don't want to have to keep opening up the cooling system. Every time you do you have to burp and refill the system. Plus, even though the radiator is new it still has dust and particles and what-not in there that should come out before sealing the system.
Yes coolant is sucked up from the tank and air also escapes out. It's not something you see very often because we don't open the hoods and watch the motor run, but it happens. Coolant is always flowing in and out of the reservoir.

 

[g-man]

Maybe I'm just crazy but I put my t-stat on very differently than most. I unbolted the lower housing from the head. While the thermostat was still inside the housing I could look in and see the top gasket was dislodged. That top gasket can easily slip out of position during install. After cleaning up the mating surfaces, I put the thermostat housing assembly together on a bench. I turned the top of the housing upside down and put the top gasket in first, then put the thermostat in upside down making sure the gasket is centered and the thermostat is sitting flush on it. Next I coated with rtv the lower gasket on both sides and put it on the lower housing. I turned the lower housing upside down and carefully put it on the mated surface of the top housing. Then holding it all tightly flipped it over and installed and tightened the 4 bolts. Next holding my thumb over the oil cooler hose attachment I blew in the top hole to make sure that I had a seal and no air was getting by. Lastly I replaced the lower (housing to head) gasket and with some rtv, bolted back on the head. This can get a little tricky with other stuff in the way but is doable. Probably not the normal way but made sense to me to be able to check the top gasket.
I suppose you could air test the top hole in the housing by attaching several graduating smaller hoses together so you can test blow through it w/out removing the lower housing. I was working on replacing my head and it all had to come off anyway.

 

[leucadiacruiser]

Most importantly don't forget to do the fan shroud mod while you've got it out: Timesaver mod to fan shroud

 

[dbla]

Alright well I broke my AC belt tensioner bolt... -sigh- so I guess I am done for the day. Can someone explain to me how these belt tensioners work? I'm not sure I was doing it correctly...

 

[dbla]

...and how I can replace this thing?

 

[4Cruisers]

...and how I can replace this thing?

Here's what another MUD member posted in 2013, but he had to buy a package of 10. Worked great for him. He hasn't been on MUD since September 25th last year.

"Ultimately, I bought a SS M8x1.25x70 bolt, full thread, McMaster Carr part number 91287A451."

You might try posting on the MUD classifieds.

 

[Saucerman]

Before going any further and frustrating yourself more follow this link For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
Look at the 3FE manual.
I have a feeling you didn't loosen the nut that holds the tension on the tensioner bolt. Usually that nut is on the center of the pulley and it has to be loosened so you can get travel in either direction using the tensioner bolt. At least it sounds like you can get a replacement fairly easy. Loosen the pulley bolt first and you just night be able to turn the broken tensioner by hand to remove it.

 

[dbla]

Before going any further and frustrating yourself more follow this link For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
Look at the 3FE manual.
I have a feeling you didn't loosen the nut that holds the tension on the tensioner bolt. Usually that nut is on the center of the pulley and it has to be loosened so you can get travel in either direction using the tensioner bolt. At least it sounds like you can get a replacement fairly easy. Loosen the pulley bolt first and you just night be able to turn the broken tensioner by hand to remove it.

Thanks, I actually have that downloaded... just don't know what I don't know. The center bolt on the pulley is being stubborn, I can't budge it. Need to get some penetrating oil on it I suppose...probably true for the whole tensioner.

 

[Saucerman]

Good old PB Blaster. It may need to soak a little while too but it will give. Remember righty tighty and lefty loosey. I have broken bolts because I was in a hurry and forgot to switch my socket wrench from one to another.

 

[dbla]

Alright, ordered the replacement bolts... Gonna be out of town this whole next week so it can sit and think about what it's done to till I get back.

I'll tell ya, working on this car is fun...but its fun punctuated with big spikes of frustration.

Ordered a new fan clutch, because I might as well at this point, the one in there is very clearly the original... Hoping I can keep the existing belts, they don't look too bad and should be easily replaced later now that I know how the GD tensioners work.

Can someone point me in the direction of how I remove the alternator belt? I'm not seeing a similar pulley on that side.

Thanks for everyone's help, I'm sure there'll be more questions soon.

 

[dbla]

Alright, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I got the damn thing off:

The back side:

Since I can get to the broken bolt this way it seems like I should be able to back this screw out with some pliers. Any guidance there?

Also here's where I'm at:

Any guidance on getting the remaining belts off, so I can pull that water pump? Once it's off, I can start putting stuff back ON this truck. Thanks in advance,

-a

 

[4Cruisers]

For the power steering belt loosen the pivot bolt and bolt(s) on the bracket to rotate the pump so the belt can be slipped off it and the smog pump.