FJ62 Thermostat and Water Pump... (3 Viewers)

[dbla]

So Sunday is the day I attempt the "Great Radiator Replacement of 2019." My first big mechanical project... But I am starting to feel like not replacing at least the thermostat and water pump may be a mistake on my part... Question for the room is:

I got the radiator from CoolCruisers, but I don't think I'd be able to get a water pump and thermostat from them by Sunday, are there any Prime alternatives on Amazon that someone would recommend?

Found this:
Amazon product ASIN B000C5G9B2
What about any of these water pump options?

Amazon.com : Automotive Replacement Engine Water Pumps

Thanks in advance for any help!

-Aaron

P.S. If any of ya'll are in Middle TN and wanna come watch me curse and cry at a Landcruiser for an afternoon this weekend hit me up.

 

[TheNeek]

I've was told that you don't want to use any water pump but a factory replacement. I followed this advice.

The job is not "easy" and I had the pump that was on the truck when I bought it fail. Left me stranded a few hours after buying the land cruiser. Had to tow it home.

 

[dbla]

I've was told that you don't want to use any water pump but a factory replacement. I followed this advice.

The job is not "easy" and I had the pump that was on the truck when I bought it fail. Left me stranded a few hours after buying the land cruiser. Had to tow it home.

Were you able to source the factory replacement from Toyota? And what did you find difficult, just so I know what to look forward to.

 

[TheNeek]

I ordered it online. toyotapartsdeal.com I think. Pretty sure the dealership can order it as well.

It's just buried in there. Got to remove a bunch of stuff to get to it (alternator, PS pump?, etc.). Doing it while you have the radiator out would be VERY advantageous.

 

[Gretsch]

I offered this WP up to the OP via IM:

Amazon product ASIN B008EEZ5W2

When I look it up says delivery for Saturday. Something wrong with this option for the WP for 88 FJ62?

Aisin pump same as OEM, just no Toyota box. I would get a Toyota gasket from dealer however. Word is the ones that come with the Aisin pump are not as good as OEM. No personal experience though. My pump with OEM gasket seems to be pretty leak free. HTH.

 

[TheNeek]

I offered this WP up to the OP via IM:

Amazon product ASIN B008EEZ5W2

When I look it up says delivery for Saturday. Something wrong with this option for the WP for 88 FJ62?

Aisin pump same as OEM, just no Toyota box. I would get a Toyota gasket from dealer however. Word is the ones that come with the Aisin pump are not as good as OEM. No personal experience though. My pump with OEM gasket seems to be pretty leak free. HTH.

Customer images look a bit sketchy. Could be a company that remans the Aisin units, but isn't the original equipment manufacturer? Tough to tell.

 

[Seth S]

Here is an Aisin unit off rockauto for $77

More Information for AISIN WPT029

 

[Seth S]

Looks like toyota parts deal:

16110-61180 Genuine Toyota Water Pump Assembly W/O Coupling

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 16110-61180 (1611061180) Water Pump Assembly W/O Coupling for $145.54. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[Gretsch]

Customer images look a bit sketchy. Could be a company that remans the Aisin units, but isn't the original equipment manufacturer? Tough to tell.

Yeah not sure how you could tell. Seems when I was doing this beno said something about the odd case grinding on there. Something like the cases for the pumps were originally cast with Toyota on them, and in order for Aisin to sell them without the Toyota box, they are required to grind off the cast Toyota moniker and put an Aisin sticker on there. Customer photos seem to show that. I cannot put my finger on where that was told me now though.

I got mine off RockAuto myself under the guidance of beno. I would agree that's the better way to roll if delivery times work out. HTH.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Just order one from your local dealer.
And get the thermostat and the o-ring for it. And the gasket for the WP.
Good luck!
Yes the job looks daunting but relatively easy.
Don’t forget while you are there replace that small one inch water hose.

 

[dbla]

Alright, another question...

I wasn't going to replace the thermostat but decided it should come out so I can get a more complete flush.

This is what I found:

And it was missing the top gasket.

So I guess I will be replacing it... but I had a few questions:

First, what does this hose go to, and is there an easier way to get to it??

Second, do I need to disconnect this? Or can I just bolt this B back down and flush the system?

Overall view:

The final question is: The other part I was considering replacing is the water pump, how can I determine if it needs it or not??

Thanks all.

-A

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Removing the housing that bolts to the front of engine is the best way to remove that small hose.
I wouldn’t remove that sensor of the top of the thermo housing. They become very brittle and they could break off. There is a butterfly screw at the passenger side of the radiator where you can flush the system.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

The final question is: The other part I was considering replacing is the water pump, how can I determine if it needs it or not??

Thanks all.

If it's leaking or squeaking. They usually weep a bit before failing entirely. I replaced mine many years ago with Napa part and it's held up just fine.

 

[Saucerman]

If you are taking it all apart go ahead and replace. The parts don't cost a mint. You will regret it later if you don't. With your radiator out you will have much more working room. It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do the belts too. I know it is stacking jobs but it is all much easier to do at one time if the opportunity arises. Replace all those old hoses too. The last thing you want is to have to go back in there and peter around when everything is buttoned up.

 

[dbla]

If you are taking it all apart go ahead and replace. The parts don't cost a mint. You will regret it later if you don't. With your radiator out you will have much more working room. It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do the belts too. I know it is stacking jobs but it is all much easier to do at one time if the opportunity arises. Replace all those old hoses too. The last thing you want is to have to go back in there and peter around when everything is buttoned up.

Hoses are getting done, thermostat now too (obvi) the only part left is the water pump... I think the belts look pretty good but I'll double check.

I'm mostly wondering about the final flush now, I guess with the thermostat out I can just open the radiator drain and let the hose run through it till it runs clear?

 

[Saucerman]

Well by final flush I think you mean when it is all put back together. This will be the last thing you do. If that's the case you will want to put the thermostat back together like it is supposed to be. Fill the radiator with water and coolant flush additive/ Run the engine a while, drain the bottom of radiator. Repeat. Each time the water should become cleaner. Remember to turn on the heat both front and rear. Un-cap radiator overflow line to the reservoir and secure it from the hood as high as you can get it. This with squeezing the top radiator hose periodically will help burp the air our of the cooling system. I'm not sure I would open the radiator tap even with a hose in place. It might be alright. Maybe someone else will chime in.
I had to do this earlier this year and found a couple of fine examples in write-ups on here.
You are not alone and we are all pulling for you.

 

[dbla]

Well by final flush I think you mean when it is all put back together. This will be the last thing you do. If that's the case you will want to put the thermostat back together like it is supposed to be. Fill the radiator with water and coolant flush additive/ Run the engine a while, drain the bottom of radiator. Repeat. Each time the water should become cleaner. Remember to turn on the heat both front and rear. Un-cap radiator overflow line to the reservoir and secure it from the hood as high as you can get it. This with squeezing the top radiator hose periodically will help burp the air our of the cooling system. I'm not sure I would open the radiator tap even with a hose in place. It might be alright. Maybe someone else will chime in.
I had to do this earlier this year and found a couple of fine examples in write-ups on here.
You are not alone and we are all pulling for you.

Thanks man, I appreciate that.

 

[4Cruisers]

And use distilled water (or reverse osmosis or deionized water) during the flush, not tap water.

 

[dbla]

Okay, so I think I am beginning to understand the process to flush this beast.

Can anyone confirm that these are the heater inlet/outlet hoses and this is where I would install a Prestone T?

Once it's installed, let me make sure I understand this correctly:

1. Open Radiator Drain
2. Open Engine Block Drain (or maybe not? Not super clear here)
3. Attach a hose to Prestone T
4. Turn on hose lowish
5. Wait for fluid from drains to run clear
   1. Is the engine running here?
   2. I need to blast the heaters?
6. After running clear, turn the hose off and disconnect hose.
7. Cap Prestone T
8. Run distilled water through the system now.
9. Let drain, refill with coolant?

An added complication, I'm replacing the radiator and thermostat so I figure I want to leave the thermostat out (to get the most flow) and get all this flushing mess done before I install the new radiator correct??

Thanks, and I appreciate everyone's patience.

 

[Saucerman]

You can use a T of some sort if you wish but not necessary unless you are having specific heater (or lack thereof) problems.

I think you are stacking too many things.
1. do all the work, ALL the work you have slated (belts, hoses, water pump, radiator, etc)
2. make sure everything is tightened up and bolted down and adjusted. Remember you left your thermostat out so you will have to install and tighten this later.
3. fill radiator with water from a hose or something as long as it's clean water. Fill the reservoir with water if it is empty. I added a Prestone cooling system cleaner at this point.
4. Run the engine with radiator cap on and radiator closed. no water going in and none coming out. Add water if necessary to the reservoir.
5. put heater controls on high. can't remember how long to run the engine (check the Prestone flush bottle) but watch the temperature gauge.
6. drain radiator, refill with water or more coolant flush and repeat until you are satisfied with the clarity of the water coming out of the bottom of the radiator.
7. close radiator drain. install thermostat you left out earlier and don't forget the gaskets inside and out.
8 final refill with correct antifreeze and distilled water mix or just use pre-mixed antifreeze. don't forget the reservoir. leave radiator cap off.
9. uncap the reservoir and tether the hose to the hood so it is higher than the radiator cap. you need a wide mouth funnel that will fit in the radiator cap opening as best you can make it fit.
10. fire the engine up, check for leaks with flashlight and watch the coolant level in the radiator. give the upper hose a squeeze here and there to help burp the air out of the system.

You may have to start and stop several times if the temperature rises too high but eventually the coolant level will drop in the radiator and you will need to add coolant to replace the escaping air.
When the level has not changed for a while and the temperature gauge has become stable put the reservoir cap back on (making sure the reservoir itself is topped off)
You will probably need to add coolant again as all the air never gets out the first time but seems to work it's way out on it's own.
I know it sounds drawn out and complicated but it is really not so bad.
Others have done it differently I am sure. I am fairly new to Cruisers myself but hove found a lot of help on here.
Other's will chime in if I am misguiding you.
Now get your ass to work!