FJ62 Rear Window Channel Installation HELP! (1 Viewer)

[thenative1]

Morning All,

In finalizing the restoration of my beloved FJ62 for sale (many details to come), I've replaced the right rear window motor and changed the inner and outer felts. But I'm having a devil of a time re-installing the lower window channel, pictured below. The channel itself is original but the rubber inserts are new as the old ones were rigid and brittle. It seems to me to be too tight to slide the bottom edge of the window into the channel. Before I very carefully open the channel ever so slightly I wanted to check with the all-knowing Mud Mind.

Is there some trick I'm missing? Perhaps it's only possible by removing the entire door and pulling the glass out entirely? I'm hoping it's possible with the window/door still on the truck. Any advice/experience you have and can share would be appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[Old Nick]

Morning All,

In finalizing the restoration of my beloved FJ62 for sale (many details to come), I've replaced the right rear window motor and changed the inner and outer felts. But I'm having a devil of a time re-installing the lower window channel, pictured below. The channel itself is original but the rubber inserts are new as the old ones were rigid and brittle. It seems to me to be too tight to slide the bottom edge of the window into the channel. Before I very carefully open the channel ever so slightly I wanted to check with the all-knowing Mud Mind.

Is there some trick I'm missing? Perhaps it's only possible by removing the entire door and pulling the glass out entirely? I'm hoping it's possible with the window/door still on the truck. Any advice/experience you have and can share would be appreciated.

Thank you!

View attachment 3441470

I'll give you a bump.

My early production 62 has crank windows, and I've never had to muck about with the part above. Someone who has done what you've done, will chime in for you, I hope.

I can see no reason why you would need to remove the door from the truck. You will get more room to work if you remove the channel between the fixed glass and the glass that is actuated by the motor. Taking that channel out is a pain, but you can do it with the window still in the door.

 

[thenative1]

Thanks! Still hoping someone on the forum has additional wisdom to share.

 

[gt7058a]

I had to do my rear driver door last year. I slid the rubber in from the end of the channel and used lots of windex to lube the glass and rubber. The window was then pushed down into the rubber that was already seated in the channel.

You shouldn’t have to pry open the channel unless a PO crimped it tighter than Toyota intended.

 

[thenative1]

I had to do my rear driver door last year. I slid the rubber in from the end of the channel and used lots of windex to lube the glass and rubber. The window was then pushed down into the rubber that was already seated in the channel.

You shouldn’t have to pry open the channel unless a PO crimped it tighter than Toyota intended.

Thanks! I have tried my damndest with Windex and every other trick I can think of and I cannot fully seat the window in the rubber and in the metal channel. Best I can do is 70% and that does not provide enough friction/holding power to hold the window. It immediately pops out the first time I lower the window. I have done a lot of work on my FJ45 Troopy and pair of FJ62s and it is amazing that this seemingly simple operation is the one that is stumping me.

With the rubber filler in the metal channel, there is simply not enough of an opening for the window to slot in. Alternately, I have put the rubber channel on the window and then tried to use leverage to wiggle the metal channel onto/over the rubber and the window. No dice. I feel as though there is a trick or piece of information I’m missing to get this seemingly small task done!

Anyone else with pearls of 60 series Window Wisdom?!

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks! I have tried my damndest with Windex and every other trick I can think of and I cannot fully seat the window in the rubber and in the metal channel. Best I can do is 70% and that does not provide enough friction/holding power to hold the window. It immediately pops out the first time I lower the window. I have done a lot of work on my FJ45 Troopy and pair of FJ62s and it is amazing that this seemingly simple operation is the one that is stumping me.

With the rubber filler in the metal channel, there is simply not enough of an opening for the window to slot in. Alternately, I have put the rubber channel on the window and then tried to use leverage to wiggle the metal channel onto/over the rubber and the window. No dice. I feel as though there is a trick or piece of information I’m missing to get this seemingly small task done!

Anyone else with pearls of 60 series Window Wisdom?!

Have you tried soaking the rubber in hot water to make it pliable?

I'm taking a shot in the dark, but I wonder if you got the rubber good and hot - dried it - and then lubed the inside of the rubber channel with dawn/liquid soap if you might then be able to seat the rubber in the guide, then drop the window into it.

Edit: I've used the hot water/soap combo (without drying the rubber) on all of my seals. Made installation very straight forward.

 

[thenative1]

Have you tried soaking the rubber in hot water to make it pliable?

I'm taking a shot in the dark, but I wonder if you got the rubber good and hot - dried it - and then lubed the inside of the rubber channel with dawn/liquid soap if you might then be able to seat the rubber in the guide, then drop the window into it.

Edit: I've used the hot water/soap combo (without drying the rubber) on all of my seals. Made installation very straight forward.

Thanks - I'm going to give that a try. My fear is that using Dawn (or any other lubricant) may allow me to fully seat the glass in the rubber channel and then that in the metal channel but that same lubricant will make it too slippery so that when lowering the window, it will allow the whole thing to pop out again. [sigh] But worth a try. Will report back and thanks for the counsel!

 

[Old Nick]

Thanks - I'm going to give that a try. My fear is that using Dawn (or any other lubricant) may allow me to fully seat the glass in the rubber channel and then that in the metal channel but that same lubricant will make it too slippery so that when lowering the window, it will allow the whole thing to pop out again. [sigh] But worth a try. Will report back and thanks for the counsel!

You're welcome! Hoping that it works for you. Good luck.

 

[HueyDriver]

I had to do this on my truck, twice.

1) Lay the glass down on a folded blanket (outside of glass on blanket) and set on a table
2) Silicone spray the rubber part and slide it on the glass where it belongs
3) Lubricate metal channel
4) While glass is laying on table, pull and hold metal channel against rubber where it should slide on (metal/rubber end away from your body and top of glass against your body to keep glass steady)
5) While holding pressure to keep metal on rubber, take a RUBBER dead blow hammer and tap metal onto the rubber. Work it back and forth from one side to the other. It helps to have 2 people, one to add pressure, the other to softly tap. Don't hit too hard, be gentle and work back and forth and eventually it will slide on. The key is to have pressure holding the metal against rubber while you tap it to keep it from bouncing off.

 

[thenative1]

I had to do this on my truck, twice.

1) Lay the glass down on a folded blanket (outside of glass on blanket) and set on a table
2) Silicone spray the rubber part and slide it on the glass where it belongs
3) Lubricate metal channel
4) While glass is laying on table, pull and hold metal channel against rubber where it should slide on (metal/rubber end away from your body and top of glass against your body to keep glass steady)
5) While holding pressure to keep metal on rubber, take a RUBBER dead blow hammer and tap metal onto the rubber. Work it back and forth from one side to the other. It helps to have 2 people, one to add pressure, the other to softly tap. Don't hit too hard, be gentle and work back and forth and eventually it will slide on. The key is to have pressure holding the metal against rubber while you tap it to keep it from bouncing off.

Thanks - after another failed attempt today using hot water/Dawn/etc., I decided to take the door off and the glass out and attempt some version of this. Now I just need to find the thread about how to remove the fixed glass and the larger glass. Thanks for the advice. Will attempt this tomorrow. Onwards!