Fj62 rear main seal question.. (2 Viewers)

[Todrn55]

I put a Feltpro rear main seal on my 88 FJ62. Is it meant to sit totally flush or sit up pasr the flange a few mms once seated??

Oddly it sits “more” flush on the bottom only at the 6 o’clock position. Hopefully I didn’t bigger it up.

Doing all this with a 4 speed conversion and want it to be correct before I have to pull it all out b/c a leak. Seal in place was fine but I figured preventive maintenance.

Why 4 speed???B/c I’m too cheap for the 5 speed.

Thanks,

Todd H

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I daily drive the 62 with the 4 speed, myself. it's fine. wound a bit high at 75MPH, but it does just fine.

did you pound in your new rear main, or did you drop the pan, rear main cap, and place it in position?

If you did not use the second method, you should. My felpro rear mains did not stick out when I was done...

take care with your pilot bearing installation, as well as your TO bearing installation...between the rear main, and those 2 bearings, that little dark corner of a TLC drivetrain is the hardest part to fix the cheapest pieces... TAKE YOUR TIME AND DON"T RUSH IT. did you get the correct flywheel bolts? should you consider changing any welch plugs or freeze plugs? did you get the Tcase rebuild kit?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Add pixs too for those of us who are visual learners/gleaners. That’s half the reason I click on posts, so I can see and learn.
FYI, your in good hands w/ a response from @LAMBCRUSHER, he’ll direct you well.

 

[Todrn55]

Lambcrusher,

I’ve actually read many of your post on the conversion. Have correct bell housing, flywheel with correct bolts, pilot bearing and all the bits. Had t-case rebuilt and 4 speed freshened. That part is all buttoned up.

All plugs on the motor look good. No rust, leaks or seapage.

Can I drop the rear main seal cap easily? I did try but with the bolts backe out ~ 1/4 inch it wouldn’t budge....FIPG really strong??


I put the bellhousing, and clutch assembly all back on...then second guested myself on the rear main seal after driving it in.

Will try to drop the seal cap and pan...I suspect you gotta drop the oil pan to get the real seal cap off.

I’m almost there!!!! If I gotta tear it all down I will post pics. Backing off what’s there isn’t too bad cause no tranny or drive shafts.

Thanks.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Yeah, you gotta drop the pan all the way andcpull the 4 bolts out of the rear main. It may need some help coming off. Gently tapping forward and rearward on the faces of the cap will help it come down. Use a piece of 2x4 or some soft brass... you can’t do this if the FW is bolted on, but I think the BH can stay...hth.

 

[Todrn55]

Back off with all the stuff...I don’t want trouble to rear it’s head after I get it back together and Stan the tranny in and put the shafts on.

Got med strengh loctite (blue) on everything...hope it all comes out good.

Need temps above 40 degrees around here to get motivated.

I Was considering oil pan seal replacement while I was down there also. Gonna pull it too for easy rear main seal access. I only backed out 2 of the seal cap and work on it....that’s why it didn’t budge.

I like the slow and cautious approach.

Thanks.

 

[60Works]

Here's a little expectation management, even after doing everything correctly with 'best practices', the front and rear mains will probably still leak. Sorry. But by redoing it now, you won't feel the need to disassemble it later.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

front seal is tricky due to the timing plate having so much to do with things, but I have had decent luck with the rears not leaking.

 

[Todrn55]

Front seal is far from my mind right now. I want to get my 4 speed conversion right. Did the t-case mod and converted to manual shift from my donor 60 (no vacum shifter!)and did the 2-lo mod while I was there.

To juggerrnaught: no leaks as noted to front or rear seal at this time...so lucky for that. Oil pan leaks good though. Rust protection! Just doing what I can while I’m down there...

Thanks

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I forgot to mention, you want to use the one piece pan gasket- I'm sorry I left that part out...did you already purchase the gaskets?

 

[Todrn55]

I have one that I bought A few years back. Gonna take a look once I get home....if not one piece cork I’ll get another.

“Bought a few years ago”......I’m a planner procrastinator!!

 

[g-man]

pictures please

 

[Todrn55]

Will get pics with the re-tear down.

Dug out what I thought was a oil pan gasket....turned out to be a transmission pan gasket..

Will order this week. Not gonna do any work until it’s warmer.

Thanks

 

[OSS]

Tip when removing the rear bearing cap:

After its unbolted it will stick in its position. Then when you give it a few taps it will come free — but the bearing may stay stuck to the crank journal due to the oil surface tension (or whatever it's called) — then drop some time later on its own when the oil loses its grip. Maybe, maybe not. But be aware that this can happen if you're not paying attention and the bearing will fall to the ground where gravity dictates. If it stays stuck on the journal, remove it before gravity does it for you.

Pay very close attention to how the bearing fits in the cap. There's only one correct orientation. Also keep the cap and the cap side of the bearing completely free of oil upon assembly and coat the journal and bearing surface with some motor oil before bolting the cap back on.

 

[Todrn55]

Great experiencal tip.....I’m sure you learned the hard way!!!

Thanks,

Todd H.

 

[Todrn55]

Got the clutch stuff off this morning before church...weather has improved. But rain for the next few day....

Here the “driven-in” felt pro....slightly less than fish with about 1-2 mm protrusion last the flange.

Now uniform all the way around after a few engine turns.

The conundrum....start over and re do it with the oil pan re-seal (as suggested), or let it ride?

Let me know what ya think....

Thanks,

Todd H.

 

[Todrn55]

Chalky whitish stuff that look like sand is dried thread locker....(was blue) gonna wipe it down prior to tackling anything else...just took quick pics while I was there just after removal.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

are you saying it has seated further after turning the crank a few times? could be that there is an edge that the seal hung up on, and after turning the crank, it seated past the edge...I guess I'd have to ask myself how pissed I would be if I had to decommission the thing in 2 weeks to get back in there, or if a few more hours now would be worth the effort...

 

[Todrn55]

I’m gonna do it your way...next week with the oil pan. Ordering oil pan gasket this afternoon...

It is now more flush as initially the bottom was flush and the rest was sitting like it is now. I gigured the cranks and engine revolutions settled it all in.

Wanted input on the seal...if it looked correct mainly from driving it in.

My last 1984 cruiser continued to leak after a rear main seal “replacement” so I’m betting the drove it in poorly. I like the rear bearing cap method....but fear the oil pan gasket nightmare along with it.

Thanks for the input.

Todd H.

 

[60Works]

It looks seated pretty well to me. You could run it and it would be OK and might leak a little. Its about what standard your building to; good enough or best practice.

I think your decision to drop the pan will likely make you happier in the long run. The seal may hold but the pan gasket does tend to leak at the corners and looks like the seal's leaking. It's a major PITA but will allow you to see the bottom end and check the rods for play.

Seal shows made in Taiwan. That's not good. What have others found? Worth spending $ for Japanese? Trail Taylor has them at a decent price.

I would recommend painting the bell housing, at least rattle can it. Tape of the mating surfaces to keep the shafts lined up.

Good luck.