FJ62 Power Steering Pump Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[cruiserbrett]

Figure'd I would document the rebuild of the FJ62 power steering pump that I am using for my 1972 FJ55 project.

I didnt take pics of disassembly since I didnt feel like getting the camera greasy...

Some notes:

Gotta be REAL careful with the rotor/blades. the little blades like to fall out, and they wear for the direction they are installed, so best to be real careful. When you split the two halves, they may fall out.

the seal is a pain, since the metal lip protrudes inward towards the seal surface, preventing any easy prying out, since the shaft cant be removed until the seal and snap ring are out.



Rebuild parts:
Autozone has the Duralast seal kit #8760, which is a nice kit. Has the same part numbers printed on it as the Edelmann and Gates kits, so I am sure some japanese wholesaler provides them to all the retailers here. The kit is actually really good quality. not some s*** skf/CR seal, its a good quality seal that looks identical to the OEM one.

COST: $16.99, and was at my local autozone in less than a day.

OEM reseal kit: 04446-30030
COST: $36.65 (toyotapartscheap.com) List $45.81

Bearing:
OEM: 90363-17004 (its an NTN TMB203)
COST: $32.71 (toyotapartscheap.com) List $40.89

Options:
Suzuki K9204-51291 is the same bearing(an NTN TMB203) which is a specialty 6203 bearing(17x40x12mm). The bearing is exactly the same, and is a crankcase bearing for a '05 rm-z250. Found it searching google for "TMB203 bearing" since I hate paying OEM toyota prices for bearings, since Toyota rapes you on bearing cost for some reason.
Its new enough a bike for suzuki USA to carry at all major warehouses, and was at the cycle shop the next morning.

COST: $11.75 at the local Suzuki motorcycle parts dealer.

So, for about $30 taxed, I have all the bearings and seals for the pump.

Next post will be the process...


EDIT: I just took down the spare pump I had and it has an NSK 6203 bearing. the date codes on the pump brackets indicate the TMB203 bearing is later than the NSK 6203 bearing, and neither pump has any indications of being rebuilt so the TMB203 seems to be the more current bearing. If anyone has other pump rebuilds to confirm or oppose this please let me know and I will update the thread.

date codes on the pump brackets
"88 1 07" = NSK 6203
"88 8 26" = NTN TMB203

so there are two bearings available. I am not sure if it was due to tolerance issues of the early bearing or to cut costs. I will state that the NSK 6203 early pump did appear to have leaked a bit more but I am not sure on mileage since I bought the pump/brackets from parts trucks to use on a 2F.

 

[slcfj62]

Very good.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Alright, onto the good stuff. I cleaned the crap out of the dirty pump and reservoir. It tookl along time, but finally got it cleaned well, and painted it up.

Step one was to press the new TMB203 bearing onto the shaft, and replace the small snap ring on the shaft. That is a pain getting the ring over that shaft, so I would order up a spare small c-clip or whatever its called that retains the bearing on the shaft.

Next up, press the shaft and bearing into the front housing, and install snap ring. This should be a tap fit, and mine tapped in easily with the soft faced hammer. Be careful to prevent anything you are using to tap it in from getting debris into the bearing.


Finally, press the seal into the bore and over the shaft at the same time. This can lead to problems were the lip of the seal folds over, so make sure its lubed with some ATF.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Up next:
Re-assembling the rear housing parts:

Install a new oring on the end of the flow valve end plug, or whatever its called.


A 6mmx1.00 screw threads into it, and will help guide it in, and pull it back into place. Press it into the bore further than the snap ring groove, install the snap ring then pull the plug back to the snap ring.

And you are done...

 

[cruiserbrett]

Next up:

The flow valve and flare nut.

There is a spring, the flow control valve, and the end flare nut thing that will need two orings.

One oring on the groove on it, and the other seals the underside against the rear pump housing.

 

[cruiserbrett]

Next step was to install the rotor housing onto the front half of the pump body. When I disassembled it, the diamond shape indent was in the orientation as shown, but I have no idea if it matters since it appears to be a mirror image.

Following that, I installed the rotor, and the vanes. One end of each vane is rounded off, and is the side that rides against the rotor housing walls. Keep in mind that the rotor vanes wear in to the rotor in the direction they were originally installed, so make sure the wear marks are oriented the same direction when re-installing. Check a few for clearance, if you have a .0015" feeler guage, which is what I recall the clearance being?




After that is done, slide the largest o-ring over the rotor housing, so it seats on the front half of the pump body. My oring was slightly loose,so be careful when mating the two halves of the pump.

The rear rotor plate has two o-rings, a large one thats obvious on the perimeter of the part, and a smaller one in the smaller short little nipple on the back.



My camera crapped out after that shot, so I dont have any more, but its easy from here on out. Place the front housing with rotor assembly in a vise with the oil seal pointing down. Place the rear rotor plate over the pins on the back, and rub a little ATF on the two orings. Place the large spring over the nipple on the back of the rear rotor plate, and center it. Take the rear half of the pump body and slide over, carefully getting the orings in position. make sure you dont pinch the main o-ring that seals the two halves together...

After that, take two bolts and lightly cinch the pump halves together using the bottom bolts, Install the new oring on the reservior and seat the reservoir. Install the upper pump body bolts through the reservoir mounting tabs, and evenly tighten all the bolts. Lastly, install the two small reservior bolts and you are done.

Make sure you clean out the fluid reservoir, mine had lots of gunk in the screen I didnt want to introduce into my rebuilt pump and steering box or the hoses and cooler.

 

[PabloCruise]

Awesome Brett! Thank you!!!

 

[cruiserbrett]

Got more pics of the tail end of the second pump rebuild I completed tonight. One thing to note from previous pictures is the orientation of the rotor in the housing:

Top red arrow: direction of rotation

Angled red arrows:
-one points to diamond on rotor outer housing
-other points to dot on rotor

Green Arrows:
these point to where the wear areas of the rotor blades should be located. Because of the rotation and the pressure created by the rotor movement, these have to be oriented in the direction they were originally. If you look at the rotor blades, you will see clearly where the wear is occuring, as it will appear as a shiny area. leading side will be towards the center of the rotor housing, and trailing edge is close to the outer edge, and tends to be a larger wear area. You will see what I mean when you take a close look at the blades.

Yellow arrow: shows the fact that the rotor blade angle is not radiating from the center of the rotor but is slightly laid back with regards to location. Failure to install the rotor with the dot facing the back will lay the rotor angle forward, which I imagine would cause excessive wear.

Blue arrow: Indicates the rounded end of the rotor vane. should be facing away from center of rotor.

 

[cruiserbrett]

More pics of the re-assembly of the two halves:

 

[cruiserbrett]

Finally done!

Contrary to the common belief that toyota pumps are of poor design, the FJ62 pump is far superior to the FJ60 pump, and is nearly on par with saginaw pumps in design and layout. similar mod to the flow control valve will net decent output.

Also, the rotor vanes are NOT pressed outwards by centrifugal force alone. There is a small bleed off port that directs high pressure fluid to the round end hole in the base of each vane groove, which forces the vane outwards to the rotor outer housing, creating the "seal", unlike the FJ60 pump that relies on spring pressure to seal.

All in all, a good pump.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks Brett!

The pic with the arrows is outstanding.

I have heard different opinions on fluid, some say run ATF, some say run reg PS fluid.

What fluid are you running?

 

[cruiserbrett]

I am going to try dextron 4 ATF. Its fully synthetic, and specified fluid for my cummins diesel dodge auto. hopefully it will work in the p/s system, since toyota specifies a dextron type atf.

 

[hward1]

would the fj60 power steering pump use the same bearing --

 

[WHG423]

I am about to tackle this on my 60. Come over hwrd1 and well have a pump building party!

 

[Spook50]

Not sure how I missed this thread when it was first posted, but this is GREAT! Definitely should be sticky'd.

With my truck approaching 300K miles, though my PS pump hasn't started groaning or anything yet, I'm thinking a rebuild for the sake of preventative maintenance will be in order once I hit the magic 300K.

The ability to modify the flow control valve is news to me too. I didn't think that could be done with the OEM pump.

I think a remote reservoir and return line cooler (and filter) would be ideal for our PS systems too. Plus then all you'd have to do is modify the flow control valve if you wanted to add ram assist steering down the road.

 

[PabloCruise]

I am going to try dextron 4 ATF. Its fully synthetic, and specified fluid for my cummins diesel dodge auto. hopefully it will work in the p/s system, since toyota specifies a dextron type atf.

Did you end up running the dextron 4 ATF? Wondering how well it is doing for you, and how much of a PITA it would be to flush out an existing, running PS system...
Also, how kind will the dextron 4 be on the box seals?

 

[PabloCruise]

Finally done!

Contrary to the common belief that toyota pumps are of poor design, the FJ62 pump is far superior to the FJ60 pump, and is nearly on par with saginaw pumps in design and layout. similar mod to the flow control valve will net decent output.

Also, the rotor vanes are NOT pressed outwards by centrifugal force alone. There is a small bleed off port that directs high pressure fluid to the round end hole in the base of each vane groove, which forces the vane outwards to the rotor outer housing, creating the "seal", unlike the FJ60 pump that relies on spring pressure to seal.

All in all, a good pump.

Don't have either pump in front of me, can 60 pump be replaced w/ 62 pump?

 

[hward1]

what about 60 vs 62 bearings same or different

 

[CruiserHappy]

The 2 pumps are very different and sit on different sides of the engine. the way the lines run into the pump and a bracket are different as well. Basically 62 pumps = rebuild-able, 60 pumps get a new one or go Saginaw

 

[hward1]

there is a rebuild kit for the 60 pumps - but didnt come with a bearing like the 62 kit - now i need a bearing to match - soes anyone have the bearing to see