FJ62 Power Steering Pump Rebuild

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hward1 said:
there is a rebuild kit for the 60 pumps - but didnt come with a bearing like the 62 kit - now i need a bearing to match - soes anyone have the bearing to see
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Not to rain on your parade, but you really need to search the forum for re-building the 60 power steering pump. It can be done, but they only last 6 months max. The issue is that there is a bushing not bearing that cannot be replaced. Don't ask me how I know..... :crybaby:
 
Someone surely could make a bushing. I know it's close tolerence but still. It's just brass is it not? When I get mine apart I'll see if the guy in the machine shop at work can make one up. He's a wiz at that stuff and I work in aerospace manufacturing so close tolerances are what we do!
 
WHG423 said:
Someone surely could make a bushing. I know it's close tolerence but still. It's just brass is it not? When I get mine apart I'll see if the guy in the machine shop at work can make one up. He's a wiz at that stuff and I work in aerospace manufacturing so close tolerances are what we do!
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I bet when you measure that bushing you will find an existing p/n. I remember reading about one years ago...
 
In middle of rebuild of fj62 steering pump and the local Toyota dealer says the C clip that holds the bearing wheel in place on the shaft is no longer available - anyone have options/suggestions? It's not a snap ring - it's more like a very stiff, round, thick wire and it gets bent taking it off to replace the bearing wheel, so not sure I want to bend it back and try to use it again.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
SeattleFJ62 said:
In middle of rebuild of fj62 steering pump and the local Toyota dealer says the C clip that holds the bearing wheel in place on the shaft is no longer available - anyone have options/suggestions? It's not a snap ring - it's more like a very stiff, round, thick wire and it gets bent taking it off to replace the bearing wheel, so not sure I want to bend it back and try to use it again.

Thanks in advance for any help!
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They didn't look hard enough. Both the larger and the smaller snap rings are available.

The PN's you need: 90080-52071 (larger) and 90520-15005 (smaller on backside of bearing).
 
Anyone have a trick for getting the snap ring over the shaft - I'm having trouble just getting it over the shaft to slide down to the bearing wheel. It's VERY tight and I'm trying not to bend the snap ring.

Thanks!
 
OK, got it in with another set of hands to assist, it's a touch loose ( yes, i bent it a bit :/ ) - think it will be OK? Once I got it over the shaft I used an extra deep 17mm socket to gently tap it down the shaft to it's groove.
 
This is another great thread - thanks cruiserbrett! This morning I ordered the Suzuki bearing and the Duralast rebuild kit, and I added the small snap ring to the list of parts to be ordered next from Cdan. Over the years my PS pump has been leaking onto my A/C compressor, so it's time for a pump rebuild before everything goes back on my freshly rebuilt 3FE later this month.
 
TY Brett. did mine in april and it doesn't leak a drop, is quieter, and looks great. My only issue is that it seems like the output is lower than I'd like. I'm going to dig into the flow control valve mods and see if I can get more action from it. Does anyone know of volume or pressure specs for these units?
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
TY Brett. did mine in april and it doesn't leak a drop, is quieter, and looks great. My only issue is that it seems like the output is lower than I'd like. I'm going to dig into the flow control valve mods and see if I can get more action from it. Does anyone know of volume or pressure specs for these units?
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I hope you get it back to the output you are wanting! I will probably rebuild mine before I get the AC compressor stabbed in the Pig...
 
cruiserbrett said:
Next step was to install the rotor housing onto the front half of the pump body. When I disassembled it, the diamond shape indent was in the orientation as shown, but I have no idea if it matters since it appears to be a mirror image.

Following that, I installed the rotor, and the vanes. One end of each vane is rounded off, and is the side that rides against the rotor housing walls. Keep in mind that the rotor vanes wear in to the rotor in the direction they were originally installed, so make sure the wear marks are oriented the same direction when re-installing. Check a few for clearance, if you have a .0015" feeler guage, which is what I recall the clearance being?

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After that is done, slide the largest o-ring over the rotor housing, so it seats on the front half of the pump body. My oring was slightly loose,so be careful when mating the two halves of the pump.

The rear rotor plate has two o-rings, a large one thats obvious on the perimeter of the part, and a smaller one in the smaller short little nipple on the back.

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My camera crapped out after that shot, so I dont have any more, but its easy from here on out. Place the front housing with rotor assembly in a vise with the oil seal pointing down. Place the rear rotor plate over the pins on the back, and rub a little ATF on the two orings. Place the large spring over the nipple on the back of the rear rotor plate, and center it. Take the rear half of the pump body and slide over, carefully getting the orings in position. make sure you dont pinch the main o-ring that seals the two halves together...

After that, take two bolts and lightly cinch the pump halves together using the bottom bolts, Install the new oring on the reservior and seat the reservoir. Install the upper pump body bolts through the reservoir mounting tabs, and evenly tighten all the bolts. Lastly, install the two small reservior bolts and you are done.

Make sure you clean out the fluid reservoir, mine had lots of gunk in the screen I didnt want to introduce into my rebuilt pump and steering box or the hoses and cooler.
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Do you guys know of a good source to get a metric o-ring kit from? Seems like it could be useful if one had a few PS pumps to rebuild...
 
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The only kit I found were the Autozone and Oreilys kit that Brett quoted. I got a spare kit just to have an extra set in case. Order the snap rings from Beno- 2 sets. I rebuilt mine as a prelude to a new AC pump as well. I still have the OG pump to rebuild; hopefully with the lessons learned the first time applied in full. BE CAREFUL taking off the pulley- they bend easy! if anyone has an extra pulley, hit me up.
 
I know it is an old thread but I wanted to say thanks to @cruiserbrett for posting. It took me a few times reading the thread before it all made sense. I have my 62 pump torn down and the parts ordered. Mine was leaking at the tank but I decided to dig in and rebuild it. I can now add rebuilding a PS pump to my resume! Linked below is the exploded diagram, it was helpful to me and it may help someone else:

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 62FJ62LG-PNEA - POWERTRAIN-CHASSIS - VANE PUMP RESERVOIR POWER STEERING | Japan Parts EU
 
Thanks for the write-up. Pretty sure I was able to order the OEM rebuild kit from Amayama a year ago. I recently tried ordering the Toyota kit domestically and it came up as NLA. I ended up ordering via Amazon ($22) the NTN bearing using the number posted and ordered the seal kit from Autozone ($19) today.
 
I got the Toyota gasket kit. I have 1 brass flare fitting left, the smaller one. Anyone know where it goes or is it general kit that works on other Toyota pumps and they include the brass fitting for other high pressure lines? Any help appreciated. Jeff


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According to the FSM, my spring is not within specs, about 7mm short,
so I order a new spring. Figure I'm rebuilding it, might as well go all the way, the spring is only about $1.50.

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So the new spring measures about 41mm, only 1mm longer than the older one. I actually ordered 2 new spring because they are so cheap and Toyota seems to be discontinuing more stuff all the time, might as well have an extra. So I guess the FSM is wrong on the specs?

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rfj62 said:
According to the FSM, my spring is not within specs, about 7mm short,
so I order a new spring. Figure I'm rebuilding it, might as well go all the way, the spring is only about $1.50.

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So the new spring measures about 41mm, only 1mm longer than the older one. I actually ordered 2 new spring because they are so cheap and Toyota seems to be discontinuing more stuff all the time, might as well have an extra. So I guess the FSM is wrong on the specs?

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Did you ever get this resolved?
 
Nope, I just rebuilt it with the new spring and I never found a spot for that other brass bushing. Everything seemed great to about a month ago, (not even sure if it is related to the rebuild.) I developed a weird problem that when I turn to the right at a very slow speed (parking, pulling in the garage, backing up) it feels as though I don't have any power steering, but only when I turn right. Left is always fine. There is no grinding, it feel smooth, just as though there is no power steering assist. It is sporadic also, one day it does it, the next it doesn't. I put the front axle on jack stands and turned the wheel, it is smooth both ways. Anyone have any thought??
 
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