georgebj60
SILVER Star
Let me know if any of these help:
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I believe this is simply looping the same B-W wire together from each end.So we are at about the same place on our rebuilds. I had plugged in the black with white stripe into the connector that also has black with white but then I don’t know what plugs into the ac amplifier smaller plug. Glad you are asking the question. Made sense to me to plug them together since it fits and are the same color wires but looks kinda funny with the routing. Had to get outta bed to go take the pic!
Guess I wasn’t much help with the looping black/white connection but thought I’d let you know that I have charged the new 134a conversion (basically just has a new compressor and dryer) and after 1.5 cans of the 134a, the compressor kicked on and I have been running the system off and on for a couple of weeks and it starts and stops the compressor and maintains the temp perfectly with those wires looped back together.I now have the dash and hvac system fully reassembled with one exception. It all looks great and is working beautifully. However, I still have not solved the issue of having nowhere to plug the AC compressor clutch relay wire back into. Considering the AC system is discharged, and its winter, I figured I will leave this open ended for now and move on to reassembling the rest of the interior. With this in mind, I did not install the glovebox insert, giving me direct access to that connector through the glove box.
That said, my glove box insert is in bad shape. The OEM insert is pressed fiber board and easily damaged when they aren't installed. I damaged mine a fair bit getting it out, and even more trying to reinstall. I have looked for a replacement with no luck. I did see someone was fab'ing these out of sheet metal at one point, but I can't find one for sale. Any suggestions?
Another question. I have been repairing / rebuilding the wiring harness as I go. The rear harness that runs from the driver's side rear quarter panel across the back of the rig, to the passenger side rear quarter panel had to be totally reworked as it was in bad shape. I totally rehabbed this section of the harness and it's now good as new or better. My question is this..... what route should this harness take across the back end? When I took it out, it was loose and strung under the back end behind the spare tire. I assume it should be run through the rear frame crossmember where it is protected, but there doesn't seem to be an obvious entry and exit point along the back frame cross member. To test it, I reinstalled it like I found it. It exits the back lower portion of driver's side rear quarter panel and there is a large rubber grommet on the loom to seal that opening. It's stung across the back, and it is entering into the passenger side rear quarter panel in the same way, also with a grommet. Three wires diverge halfway across. Two, one brown and one white/ black bolt to the frame as a ground, centered on the crossmember. The third, green, runs through the crossmember into the lower back hatch to the license plate lights. Suggestions?
Thanks Hammer. Your pictures were great. Noted your system is working well. With those two connectors attached, I assume you have an empty connection port on top of the AC booster? The single pin port.Guess I wasn’t much help with the looping black/white connection but thought I’d let you know that I have charged the new 134a conversion (basically just has a new compressor and dryer) and after 1.5 cans of the 134a, the compressor kicked on and I have been running the system off and on for a couple of weeks and it starts and stops the compressor and maintains the temp perfectly with those wires looped back together.
Yup.Thanks Hammer. Your pictures were great. Noted your system is working well. With those two connectors attached, I assume you have an empty connection port on top of the AC booster? The single pin port.
I believe that is the glove box insert I saw, which is not currently for sale. Would be nice!Awesome job!
"That said, my glove box insert is in bad shape. The OEM insert is pressed fiber board and easily damaged when they aren't installed. I damaged mine a fair bit getting it out, and even more trying to reinstall. I have looked for a replacement with no luck. I did see someone was fab'ing these out of sheet metal at one point, but I can't find one for sale. Any suggestions?"
Might be the one you saw.
Glovebox Insert for LHD 60/62 Series Land Cruiser
Glovebox Insert for LHD 60/62 Series Land Cruiser (GBI-1)absolute-wits-end.com
Seems like you are beyond this point but these are nice fully adjustable vents out the 70 series that are a direct fit.
OEM Adjustable Center Air Vents for Land Cruiser FJ60 FJ62 - Set of 2
Upgrade the center vents in your Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60 or FJ62 to be adjustable, just like the side vents! Easy 3 second swap. Simply turn the old vent at 90 degrees and pull out, then insert the new ones. Price is for 2 vents. Genuine Toyota OEM parts.www.cityracerllc.com
REGISTER ASSY, INSTRUMENT PANEL, NO.3 5567090K00 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq
Quality parts for Toyota auto with fast delivery here! For a fast search using the part number 5567090K00 - REGISTER ASSY, INSTRUMENT PANEL, NO.3partsouq.com
This set of photos makes my chest tight.Tackling the teardown of the ventilation system this weekend. It’s turned out to be a big job with all that has to come out to gain access to the primary ventilation system components. Very glad I’m doing this. The more I take apart, the more foam dust I find. It seems the primary source of this foam dust my not be the dash pad, it may be the foam parts inside the system…likely a combination of both. I attached a few pictures of the teardown
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It’s for sale again! But a limited run.I believe that is the glove box insert I saw, which is not currently for sale. Would be nice!
I snagged one! ThanksIt’s for sale again! But a limited run.
I finally did figure this out. The two OEM single wire B-W conectors are meant to connect to each other as a bypass of theWell it shouldn’t be hard to find someone smarter than me on this thing so I’ll hope they come along soon. Did you figure it out? I traced the continuity from the compressor to the b-w wire at the ecu bottom pin 5th from the right and there is another b-w that is at the 7th pin from the right on the bottom row Hope we get some help here cuz I’m stumped.
I finally figured this out. The two OEM single wire (B-W) connectors ARE meant to connect to each other, but only as a bypass of the AC- Accelerator circuit board. So, if the AC accelerator is working as it should, the single wire (B-W) connector that runs through the fire wall directly to the AC compressor electronic clutch in not utilized as it is a redundancy. Why this intentional electrical engineering fail-safe is so poorly documented is hard to understand!I believe this is simply looping the same B-W wire together from each end.
I’m now wondering if this connection is meant to be unused to calibrate the magnetic clutch on the compressor. Earlier models, Fj60’s, don’t have this port on the AC amplifier, but instead, a dial in its place. If this is the case, then there isn’t a connection for this wire and is meant to plug into to a digital calibration gauge of some sore. I’m researching. This now.
I did go back ans look dozens of detailed photos I took all along the way. No sign of a matching port connection anywhere.