- Thread starter
- #61
I ended up salvaging the original heat shield, scraped off the original jute, and replaced with new jute. Thanks!!
FJ62 Interior Restoration
- Thread starter LCABOVEALL
- Start date
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I agree with the roof, just given the weight and risk of the roof bowing down, but as far as dash and door & body panels, that seems to be based on the quality of the product you're putting in. Cheap stuff uses crummy adhesive and WILL come off in extreme temps like you said. I've had Dyanamat Xtreme (the early stuff) in my doors and cargo panels for about 17 years now I think it's been, in 110+ degree heat and sub zero temps without ever having an issue. I'm a strong believer in proper surface prep though, and applied mine indoors at about 70 degrees (using my folks' garage while home on leave). I also believe you get what you pay for, so if you're going to invest in sound deadening material, pay the premium for the good stuff.
This may be true. I used Eastwoods butyl rubber heat and sound insulation. Cheaper version of Dynamat. It fell off from under my lower metal dash in my Galaxie. It also melted and dripped through some screw holes I had in my floors. Leaving a constant mess of small butyl rubber drips to scrape off the garage floor.
- Thread starter
- #64
The product I bought is KILMAT brand. It’s gotten pretty great reviews. Now that I have pivoted back to using the the OEM firewall heat shield with new jute, and I have eliminated the roof application, it’s down to the interior body panels and floor plan.
I’ll give the KILMAT reviews another look, and if I’m not convinced, may return and pony up for Dynomat. Now that I need much less, the good stuff will be more affordable.
Thanks!
I’ll give the KILMAT reviews another look, and if I’m not convinced, may return and pony up for Dynomat. Now that I need much less, the good stuff will be more affordable.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #65
I need a reminder. Who is the muddier selling interior dash decals for the FJ62? I saw a comment about these but can seem to circle back.
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
WoodnotRust
SILVER Star
Hi @LCABOVEALL ... are you thinking about the stickers I made? I only had a couple for the dash area, the others are scattered around the car and engine bay.
forum.ih8mud.com
60 Series (FJ62) Decals/Stickers - Interior and Engine Bay
Repost April 9, 2026 New: Fuse box sticker $3.00 includes postage to US destinations. Now pre-cut like the sticker sheets. I now have available THREE of the FJ62 1988 and FIVE 1989 model-year sticker sheets for the amazing price of $35 each. Both the California and Federal emissions stickers...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #67
yes sir! thanks Wood!! do you have a set for the an 88 with the glove box decals?Hi @LCABOVEALL ... are you thinking about the stickers I made? I only had a couple for the dash area, the others are scattered around the car and engine bay.
60 Series (FJ62) Decals/Stickers - Interior and Engine Bay
Repost April 9, 2026 New: Fuse box sticker $3.00 includes postage to US destinations. Now pre-cut like the sticker sheets. I now have available THREE of the FJ62 1988 and FIVE 1989 model-year sticker sheets for the amazing price of $35 each. Both the California and Federal emissions stickers...
WoodnotRust
SILVER Star
Yes @LCABOVEALL , I have two more 1988 sticker sheets left, seven 1989 sheets and plenty of the glove-box decals. I'm leaving for a 3-day camping trip in about 3 hours, but I can post your stickers today if you PM me right away and send me $65 for all of the stickers. I'll throw in a fuse-box door decal for fun.
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I also went with KILMAT, got the 80m thickness. It feels like it's thinner than what was there OEM. Definitely going for 100% coverage when I get around to doing my trunk tomorrow.
I believe mine is brown and matches my dashboard (brown).
Intresting thread. I just bought all the material to sound and heat deaden my interior.
My 62 is going to have a 4bt in it so I’m trying to reduce the noise as much as possible.
My plan/ steps are as follows.
FLOORS:
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
DOORS - inner and outer skin
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
REAR PANELS - inner and outer skin
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
CEILING
Layer 1 Killmat is very limited on center of ceiling panels just to stop vibration due to the wait of the material.
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
FIREWALL-
My plan is to take the factory sound and heat panel and and recreate it by tracing it.
It will be made by three layers
Layer 1MLV vinyl
Layer 2 noico heat and noise reducer 10 mil
Layer 3 carpet jute- spelling.
If my OE panel is still salvageable then I will reuse it and stack it over the one I make.
FYI:
The MVL vinyl does not reduce vibration or heat. It only stops ambient noise.
Also I actually didn’t use Noico for my 10 mil heat and sound foam becasue I was able to find another brand that is actually 10 mil thick ( twice as thick as Noico brand) and slightly cheaper.
Last thing - you can also spray lizard skin as your first layer for sound and heat reduction but I won’t be doing that to the interior of my floor boards. I am hoping to be able to spray it on the outer firewall and outer floor boards ( bottom of the body) you can also use Al’s liner becasue that stuff can be brushed on if you don’t want to or can’t spray.
My 62 is going to have a 4bt in it so I’m trying to reduce the noise as much as possible.
My plan/ steps are as follows.
FLOORS:
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
DOORS - inner and outer skin
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
REAR PANELS - inner and outer skin
Layer 1 Killmat 100% coverage
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
CEILING
Layer 1 Killmat is very limited on center of ceiling panels just to stop vibration due to the wait of the material.
Layer 2 Noico heat and noise foam 10 mil thick 100% coverage
Layer 3 noise grabber vinyl MLV 100% coverage
FIREWALL-
My plan is to take the factory sound and heat panel and and recreate it by tracing it.
It will be made by three layers
Layer 1MLV vinyl
Layer 2 noico heat and noise reducer 10 mil
Layer 3 carpet jute- spelling.
If my OE panel is still salvageable then I will reuse it and stack it over the one I make.
FYI:
The MVL vinyl does not reduce vibration or heat. It only stops ambient noise.
Also I actually didn’t use Noico for my 10 mil heat and sound foam becasue I was able to find another brand that is actually 10 mil thick ( twice as thick as Noico brand) and slightly cheaper.
Last thing - you can also spray lizard skin as your first layer for sound and heat reduction but I won’t be doing that to the interior of my floor boards. I am hoping to be able to spray it on the outer firewall and outer floor boards ( bottom of the body) you can also use Al’s liner becasue that stuff can be brushed on if you don’t want to or can’t spray.
- Thread starter
- #72
Thanks Engineer. I went ahead and painted mine brown along with the other metal frame components. Will look sharp soon!
- Thread starter
- #73
Wow! This is a great plan. I really like the part about hitting the roof with a smaller targeted application. I my consider doing the same along the out side edges of the roof where its the strongest, leaving the middle 75% to be covered with Noico foam, no KilMat to avoid excessive weight that could cause sagging.
Supper interested to learn how your firewall efforts turn out. I started with the same notion of building my own multi-layered barrier, and scrapping the OEM heat and sound shield all together. I did just what you have in mind. I used the OEM parts to trace out a pattern and went about making my own, failing twice, before reverting back to salvaging the OEM PVC mat and adding a new jute layer. Where I failed on the custom mat effort, all the precise cut outs. Once I had all my layers laminated, it was far to heavy to do all the cut outs to match the factories without making it very easy to tear in the most narrow areas. I then attempted to cut out each layer before combining, which proved even more difficult as the materials differed too much to make them align properly. If I were to do it again, I would layer the materials before doing the cut outs, but in smaller vertical sections and not try to create a one pcs barrier. Two at lease, maybe three sections. IMO, if you can save the OEM PVC layer, that is your best path.
- Thread starter
- #74
Reassembly continues! I used the SEM Color Coat system on all of the non-metal interior bits and pcs, which so far, I am very impressed with. I will post on my SEM usage soon. One challenge I had was finding the right paint for the interior metal finishing, for parts like the dash frame, and others. I tested a few that were only a "so-so" match to the SEM CORDOVAN BROWN "15023". After a few tests that I was not happy with, and nearing the point of having a paint mixed for me, I found just the right product. See Pictures. The quality of this paint is impressive, and the color is incredibly close to the SEM product. It's a BINGO! I'm a stickler for surface prep, so after a good amount for cleanings, degreasing, and a couple rounds of steel wool resurfacing...... I painted the dash frame and primary vertical dash support, which I had already removed from the rig, and the dash pad support/vent frame under the windshield.
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- Thread starter
- #75
Need some Help! Now that well into the the reassembly of the Dash and HVAC system, I'm reconnecting all of the segmented wiring looms. I'm down to the the last few connections, and have a headscratcher. This is my question. Picture attached.
The small wiring loom specific to the the AC Amplifier, I'm lost as to where the connector circled in red snaps into. I referred to the the service manual wiring diagram and can clearly see that this should connect to the AC compressor magnetic clutch relay. Where in the heck is it?? The the single B-W wire that connects to the single pin port on the Amplifier circuit board ( circled in Blue) is only 6-8" long off the wiring loom, so it doesn't reach too far. I have searched everywhere I can think of, no luck. I backtracked this B-W wire from the AC compressor, but I disappears in to the primarily wiring loom under the hood.
Any suggestions!!
The small wiring loom specific to the the AC Amplifier, I'm lost as to where the connector circled in red snaps into. I referred to the the service manual wiring diagram and can clearly see that this should connect to the AC compressor magnetic clutch relay. Where in the heck is it?? The the single B-W wire that connects to the single pin port on the Amplifier circuit board ( circled in Blue) is only 6-8" long off the wiring loom, so it doesn't reach too far. I have searched everywhere I can think of, no luck. I backtracked this B-W wire from the AC compressor, but I disappears in to the primarily wiring loom under the hood.
Any suggestions!!
WoodnotRust
SILVER Star
@LCABOVEALL Just spit-balling here, but could that be the connector for your glove-box light?
R
Never mind...I see the glove-box light connector on the right of you picture with the white and red wires as shown by @georgebj60
R
Never mind...I see the glove-box light connector on the right of you picture with the white and red wires as shown by @georgebj60
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georgebj60
SILVER Star
Do either of these pics help?
georgebj60
SILVER Star
Or this one?
- Thread starter
- #79
YES! this is a big help. The last pic you attached, which looks to be a pre-rehab photo, shows the missing connection I'm looking for. It looks like the B-W wire with a male clip in connection drops directly out of the main wire harness that runs under the windshield and behind the windshield vent. I attached your picture with some ink. I don't have this wire/connector dropping out of my wire harness. What the what!!?? I also attached a picture of my set up now that I have the wiring from the AC Amp running in the way it did before I took it apart, which puts the female end of the connection we are talking about in the same position as your picture.
Am I looking at your picture correctly? Do you have a B-W wire with a single pin male connection dropping down from the main wiring harness?
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georgebj60
SILVER Star
I can't recall anymore. These were taken a couple years ago. I'll go through my pictures again to see if I have any others of this area before I got the dash all back together. I will say that mine is an HJ60, but I think all the heater/AC stuff is mostly wired the same for both the HJ and FJ.