FJ62 Crank No Start

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julianramirez1005

julianramirez1005

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 12, 2025
Threads
17
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76
Location
Eureka, California
Dropped the 3FE into my new rig and just finished hooking everything back up. I cranked it and couldn’t get it to start, then I realized I had the distributor set 180 degrees off. I fixed that and it fired up for about 5 seconds, then died.

I researched and learned about the circuit opening relay. I cracked the fuel lines, jumped FP and B+ on the diagnostic plug, and turned the key on. Nothing—no fuel coming through at the connection to the fuel filter. What’s weird is it definitely worked when I had the distributor backwards, because it sprayed fuel out of the fuel filter connector that I forgot to tighten.

But now, even if I jump the terminals and turn the key on, I hear absolutely nothing, and no fuel comes out. I had concerns about clogged lines, but if that were the case, I would still hear it trying to pump with the terminals jumped, right? I also double and triple checked the hard lines and there is definitely no cracked lines or leaks.

I need to drop the tank and to verify the pump is actually getting power. It could be a pinched wire or something, but since it was working, I doubt it.

My conclusion is a bad fuel pump, but is there anything else I should check before I spend money on a new pump and drop the tank?

Side note: I’m planning to replace it with a Delphi fuel pump if that’s the solution. Any feedback on Delphi FE0486?

Already done:
  • Replaced circuit opening relay
  • Checked EFI fuse
  • Put it in diagnostic mode and only got code 51, which I’ve had before in my donor rig and fixed with a new TPS sensor and a slight adjustment in the slotted holes. Would that affect fueling at all?

Thanks for reading :)

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Things to check before you go to the trouble of dropping the tank:

- Fusible link
- Fuses
- Main EFI relay

All of the above are upstream from the diagnostic port, so if any of them have failed, you will not have 12v to send to the pump when you jump B+ and FP.

Try grounding B+ with a test light or multimeter to see if there's 12v at the diag port.
 
There's a connector in the passenger side rear quarter panel that you can access if you remove some of the paneling back there. There's a plug for the fuel pump that likes to corrode.

Edit: Thanks @majdomo It's the DRIVER's side ...and I knew that too, since I fixed mine.
 
Last edited:
Lead Head said:
There's a connector in the passenger side rear quarter panel that you can access if you remove some of the paneling back there. There's a plug for the fuel pump that likes to corrode.
Click to expand...
*Driver's side. Had this same issue, the plug corroded. I cut out the plug and soldered the damn thing together. Good luck!
 
diesellibrarian said:
Things to check before you go to the trouble of dropping the tank:

- Fusible link
- Fuses
- Main EFI relay

All of the above are upstream from the diagnostic port, so if any of them have failed, you will not have 12v to send to the pump when you jump B+ and FP.

Try grounding B+ with a test light or multimeter to see if there's 12v at the diag port.
Click to expand...
I got 12v at the diag port so it has to be something down the line?
 
majdomo said:
Yes. You will get normal readings at the diagnostic port but nothing from the pump if the plug is bad.
Click to expand...
Just soldered the wires and I’m getting 7 7.5 volts at the connector up the line to the fuel pump. Not sure how much it’s supposed to get. It jumps back and forth from 7.4 to 6.4. I am illiterate with electronics all very new to me
 
If you’re not getting 12v on the wire to the FP, it’s very likely a bad ground. Corrosion can build up, creating resistance which drops the voltage on that circuit.

It could also be a damaged wire or loose connection. It’s a simple circuit, but difficult to troubleshoot due to Toyota’s laziness in moving the pump to the tank without adding a provision for access.
 
diesellibrarian said:
If you’re not getting 12v on the wire to the FP, it’s very likely a bad ground. Corrosion can build up, creating resistance which drops the voltage on that circuit.

It could also be a damaged wire or loose connection. It’s a simple circuit, but difficult to troubleshoot due to Toyota’s laziness in moving the pump to the tank without adding a provision for access.
Click to expand...
Yeah I’m trying to chase down where it’s actually grounded and clean it but I can’t seem track it down
 
Here's a simple test you can do:
  • Stick a multimeter in the FP pin of the diagnostic connector, and connect the other end to ground.
  • Turn the key on
  • Open the air cleaner lid, and stick your fingers up into the air flow meter. Push the flap open, alternatively you can use a stick or something else if you can't get your greasy mits up in there. You should hear a click once the flap opens some - this is the "Circuit Opening Relay"
  • You meter should read 12v.
  • This will verify that all of the fuel pump control stuff is working properly.

After this test, move back to the connector in the rear drivers side quarter panel. You should also have 12v between the hot wire and BODY ground. Then, check the voltage between the two fuel pump wires (B+ and GND). If you measure +12v to body ground, but NOT 12v between the two wires, then the fuel pump circuit ground wire has gone open somewhere.
 
Lead Head said:
Here's a simple test you can do:
  • Stick a multimeter in the FP pin of the diagnostic connector, and connect the other end to ground.
  • Turn the key on
  • Open the air cleaner lid, and stick your fingers up into the air flow meter. Push the flap open, alternatively you can use a stick or something else if you can't get your greasy mits up in there. You should hear a click once the flap opens some - this is the "Circuit Opening Relay"
  • You meter should read 12v.
  • This will verify that all of the fuel pump control stuff is working properly.

After this test, move back to the connector in the rear drivers side quarter panel. You should also have 12v between the hot wire and BODY ground. Then, check the voltage between the two fuel pump wires (B+ and GND). If you measure +12v to body ground, but NOT 12v between the two wires, then the fuel pump circuit ground wire has gone open somewhere.
Click to expand...
Got 12v on the air flow meter test
Hotwire to body ground reading 9.2v
Two wires 7.0v jumps back and forth to 7.3v
 
Also when I hook power directly to fuel pump it works fine so I’ve ruled that out
 
Figured it out
After 4 hours of chasing wires. I figured it out. I started doing continuity tests on the ground pin in the connector from wire harness to the fuel pump. Since I couldn’t find that ground wire (white with black stripe and pink markings every inch or so) in the wire loom running towards the driver side fuse box, I started going backwards towards the tail lights. I had forgotten this whole time that the wires that go to passenger tail light are chopped or rather ripped off after the rubber grommet that exits under the rear driver tail light. After looking at my parts rig I realize there is a ground on the undercarriage all the way to the back of the undercarriage in line with the license plate. So I did continuity test to ensure this was the right wire and sure enough it was. Routed a ground directly to that pin and the fuel pump kicked on. Works without jumping the B+ FP terminals either.
Started and ran smoother then ever before. I swear I could’ve balanced a stack of champagne glasses on it like in that 90s Lexus ls400 commercial haha.

Ps. picture of the corroded connector that I cut out and soldered the wires like @majdomo suggested.

Sincerely thank you guys for the help

IMG_9004.webp


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julianramirez1005 said:
After 4 hours of chasing wires. I figured it out. I started doing continuity tests on the ground pin in the connector from wire harness to the fuel pump. Since I couldn’t find that ground wire (white with black stripe and pink markings every inch or so) in the wire loom running towards the driver side fuse box, I started going backwards towards the tail lights. I had forgotten this whole time that the wires that go to passenger tail light are chopped or rather ripped off after the rubber grommet that exits under the rear driver tail light. After looking at my parts rig I realize there is a ground on the undercarriage all the way to the back of the undercarriage in line with the license plate. So I did continuity test to ensure this was the right wire and sure enough it was. Routed a ground directly to that pin and the fuel pump kicked on. Works without jumping the B+ FP terminals either.
Started and ran smoother then ever before. I swear I could’ve balanced a stack of champagne glasses on it like in that 90s Lexus ls400 commercial haha.

Ps. picture of the corroded connector that I cut out and soldered the wires like @majdomo suggested.

Sincerely thank you guys for the help

View attachment 4073005

View attachment 4073006
Click to expand...
Yikes! Glad you got to the bottom of it! No pulling the tank, either, thankfully!
 
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