I have had an 87 FJ60 for about 30 years so I know its history intimately. A couple of years ago it wouldn't start unless I put starting fluid in the carburetor so I replaced the fuel pump and it seemed to fix the problem. A few months later I noticed it was running rough so I decided to rebuild the carb with the help of Pinhead's YouTube videos. It ran smoothly for about a year then recently it became difficult to start if left for a couple of days. Once warmed up it will restart and run fine but cold with choke pulled and pumping gas pedal no fuel enters the carb. The fuel pump was probably a cheap aftermarket one so I suspect it may be the culprit or possibly I may have botched the carb job. Any suggestions to narrow down the search for a remedy?
FJ60 wont start if not run for a couple of days. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RustyTLC
- Start date
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wonder if the needle valve with the float is sticking closed and won't let gas into the bowl.
you can remove the gas line to the carb and see if gas is being pumped to the carb, if it is you know it is the carb versus gas getting to the carb.
you can remove the gas line to the carb and see if gas is being pumped to the carb, if it is you know it is the carb versus gas getting to the carb.
If you peer into the sight window of the carburetor and shake the truck, (might need a flashlight) some gasoline needs to be seen sloshing inside the float bowl for the engine to start/run.
If you can’t see any liquid gasoline in the bowl no matter how much you shake the truck - the engine won’t start or run.
To get some gas up into the float bowl prior to attempting a start, just crank over the starter for about 5-6 seconds without pumping gas pedal or pulling choke.
If you can’t see any liquid gasoline in the bowl no matter how much you shake the truck - the engine won’t start or run.
To get some gas up into the float bowl prior to attempting a start, just crank over the starter for about 5-6 seconds without pumping gas pedal or pulling choke.
- Thread starter
- #4
I have removed the fuel line and turned the key and there is fuel being pumped to the carb but I don't know how much pressure is required to fill the bowl. The bowl is empty before the failed attempt but after the assisted start the sight glass fills half way and will restart easily. I will try to fill the carb by turning the key without the gas pedal or choke.
We have 3 cruisers and a couple 80s pickups doing this, after farting with it alot, we slapped an electric fuel pump inline with > 24" of dry lift. plus a switch in the cab.
Turn the pump on, wait for it to lug down. Now everything is primed. start the truck, turn the pump off. takes about 10 to put the whole thing in... all inthe engine compartment since the pump is just used to prime.
I add the dry lift part, cause i had 1 truck where the gas got up to the firewall and just stopped about 4" below the carb with a 24" dry lift pump.(clearb fuel line to diagnose issue)
It's not the right solution, but after farting with the first, we just do it first thing and it's fixed.
Turn the pump on, wait for it to lug down. Now everything is primed. start the truck, turn the pump off. takes about 10 to put the whole thing in... all inthe engine compartment since the pump is just used to prime.
I add the dry lift part, cause i had 1 truck where the gas got up to the firewall and just stopped about 4" below the carb with a 24" dry lift pump.(clearb fuel line to diagnose issue)
It's not the right solution, but after farting with the first, we just do it first thing and it's fixed.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks for the advice but I'd really rather not add the electric pump if I don't have to. I guess I will keep farting with it. I looked back and it has been 4 years since I rebuilt the carb, not 2. After removing the top of the breather and operating the throttle linkage by hand I believe the accelerator pump plunger may be sticking so I will probably order a carb kit and at least rebuild the upper carb body if not a complete job.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I had starting issues with mine after sitting overnight. Once started it will restart fine all day. Just sitting overnight it was always hard to start. Had a carb rebuild, FCS wiring, blah blah. Choke for me would do nothing. Adjusted the choke to allow it to fully close properly and replaced the aftermarket garbage pump with a proper Toyota OEM, and it starts fine now after sitting overnight......even sitting for several days. My sight glass window has a bit of a leak in it so fuel seems to drop below half on the sight glass after sitting. Seems the aftermarket pump just did not have the volume needed to get the bowl filled up enough to get it to fire. Not really sure what the deal was with the after market pump. Every morning was a 30 minute ordeal and the use of a battery charger in start mode to get it going.
When starting I usually go two attempts. One to fill the bowl, then rest for about 30 seconds, then she fires up on the second try. This is with choke on full, usually when colder outside. You are not the first on here to describe issues with those junk pumps. Not sure that's your issue but replacing with OEM has improved things for me enough to make the truck actually usable now. No Holley Sniper kit needed.
. HTH.- Thread starter
- #8
I ordered the carb kit and am planning to fix the sticking accelerator pump plunger when it comes in. If that doesn't fix the starting problem the next step will probably be the OEM fuel pump. I may do the fuel pump anyway because I don't trust the aftermarket one after reading other peoples problems with them.
Could be carb adjust issues.
Then again could be the fact that the fedgov mandates a minimum of 10% ethanol to be included in motor fuel.
Ethanol boils off at low temp and leaves your carb high and dry - so hard starts after it has sat for a while. Go on a trail run in the Rockies at 10,000 feet ASL and see what happens to your horsepower. Goes to nothing when you are trying to burn moonshine rather than gasoline.
Via regulations, the fedgov intends to eventually make our machines obsolete.
There is a small chance you can find a gas station that sells straight gasoline w/o ethanol. It will cost you $0.40 more per gallon, Reason being the federal subsidy for ethanol reduces the price for E10. It is welfare for for corn farmers.
BTW, all my relatives were farmers in the midwest so do not waste time telling me I hate farmers. I do hate central planning.
Then again could be the fact that the fedgov mandates a minimum of 10% ethanol to be included in motor fuel.
Ethanol boils off at low temp and leaves your carb high and dry - so hard starts after it has sat for a while. Go on a trail run in the Rockies at 10,000 feet ASL and see what happens to your horsepower. Goes to nothing when you are trying to burn moonshine rather than gasoline.
Via regulations, the fedgov intends to eventually make our machines obsolete.
There is a small chance you can find a gas station that sells straight gasoline w/o ethanol. It will cost you $0.40 more per gallon, Reason being the federal subsidy for ethanol reduces the price for E10. It is welfare for for corn farmers.
BTW, all my relatives were farmers in the midwest so do not waste time telling me I hate farmers. I do hate central planning.
