FJ60 Power Steering Pulley Removal and PS Pump Install (2 Viewers)

[Gretsch]

I got one about 2 weeks ago from Camelback Toyota's parts website. $380 shipped for the new OEM pump, reservoir included. Use your old pulley. I don't know if camelback actually keeps them in their own warehouse, or has them shipped from the big one in LA, but I got it in a couple days.

part number for my 1985 FJ60 is 44320-60071 "Pump Assy L/Pulley". Same part for your '84.

I got a new hardline from Napa for about $25 - part number is 7-2142 "power steering hose - pressure" and it comes with the heat shield.

You could definitely go the Saginaw route via Georg for less money... people sound pretty stoked on it. But OEM has been good for me.

So I finally got around to ordering this stuff. Camelback was no issue, parts on the way. Called NAPA about the high pressure hose. The guy claimed the one he has has no heat shield. I think he is prolly just looking at a generic stock photo of a high pressure hose for unnamed vehicle. You said the one you got has a heat shield. Is that correct? This guy also said its special order and its $15 to have it shipped to the store. Does that sound right to you? At first he told me the part number was not for a hose, so not sure I believe what this guy is telling me.

 

[FJ60Seth]

So I finally got around to ordering this stuff. Camelback was no issue, parts on the way. Called NAPA about the high pressure hose. The guy claimed the one he has has no heat shield. I think he is prolly just looking at a generic stock photo of a high pressure hose for unnamed vehicle. You said the one you got has a heat shield. Is that correct? This guy also said its special order and its $15 to have it shipped to the store. Does that sound right to you? At first he told me the part number was not for a hose, so not sure I believe what this guy is telling me.

I have an after market HP hose that does not have a heat shield. I carry it as a trail spare.

 

[Gretsch]

So I spoke too soon. I had ordered replacement hoses while I was doing this. Camelback called and said the reservoir to cooler hose is discontinued. Does anyone know what size and type of hose I can use for this as a replacement? Its not high pressure so seems any quality automotive hose would work right? Maybe I am an idiot here and that not right at all. If anyone knows, I would appreciate letting me know.

Also I looked through the FSM. If I am reading this correctly it says to remove the pump from the mounting bracket, not to remove the bracket from the engine. It looks to me that the bolt in the back holding the pump in the bracket won't clear the exhaust manifold doing it that way. The engine mounting bolts seem to be a challenge to get at so I am a little worried about removing the bracket from the engine. The lower bolt closest to the exhaust seems pretty rusty from the heat of the exhaust. Worried its going to snap. I know this was said to be the preferred way to do this but worried it will prove more difficult. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Gretsch]

OK nm on the pump removal procedure. The FSM was correct. I had read somewhere that you need to remove the bracket from the motor to be able to get the rear bolt holding the pump to the bracket backed out far enough from the pump to be able to remove the pump from the bracket. I proved tonight that's not true. Backed the bolt out on mine and the pump came right out. The bolt head was up against the exhaust manifold but cleared the pump and manifold to allow the pump to come out no problem. They thought of everything. Just need the parts and I am good to get this Cruiser back on the road.

Still could use advice on the reservoir to cooler hose size and type I need if anyone has any.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I got my hose from napa or o'reilly, it's got the shiny heat shield sewn around it. I feel like it was gates brand but I could be wrong. I'm trying to think if I have the invoice handy... sorry, I'm not finding it, I'm usually way more organised.
Most other basic coolant/fuel hoses I've just brought to napa and had them match to stock supply.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I've yet to special order any hoses and I've changed out quite a many so far. (Except that power steering high pressure line).

 

[OSS]

The return PS hose is easy to replace.
What you want is "3/8" power steering return hose". Yes there is a hose specifically designed for the job and it's called that. Auto parts stores carry it. Sometimes it's in a sealed package on display. Sometimes it's sold in bulk by the foot.

I proved tonight that's not true.

You got lucky somehow. The bolt usually is too long & the bracket has to come off for most trucks.

 

[Racer65]

Just putting it out there, I sell a drop-in FJ62 power steering pump. You will re-use your existing reservoir and pulley. No modification of any kind is required.
You get a new Woodruff key and reservoir O-ring, all for $200 less than the OEM pump.

 

[Gretsch]

The return PS hose is easy to replace.
What you want is "3/8" power steering return hose". Yes there is a hose specifically designed for the job and it's called that. Auto parts stores carry it. Sometimes it's in a sealed package on display. Sometimes it's sold in bulk by the foot.



You got lucky somehow. The bolt usually is too long & the bracket has to come off for most trucks.

OK well I'll take it. Could use some luck these days. Maybe one of the POs realized the issue and corrected it with a shorter bolt. Anyway, it sounds like its gotten me ahead of the game.

Curious though why the FSM says to just remove the pump out of the bracket and not to remove the bracket to get this job done.

 

[CaptClose]

OK well I'll take it. Could use some luck these days. Maybe one of the POs realized the issue and corrected it with a shorter bolt. Anyway, it sounds like its gotten me ahead of the game.

Curious though why the FSM says to just remove the pump out of the bracket and not to remove the bracket to get this job done.

I mentioned removing the bracket as more of a tip. It's super easy to do, and it might even be less bolts to remove. Not to mention that it also makes things like removing the pulley a breeze as well, because you can get an impact wrench on the nut. In other words, you can swim across the English Channel... but what OSS and I were saying is that it might be easier to take the ferry.

The PO probably did use a different bolt. I replaced mine when I reinstalled my pump. A slightly shallower head is about all it takes.

 

[Gretsch]

I mentioned removing the bracket as more of a tip. It's super easy to do, and it might even be less bolts to remove. Not to mention that it also makes things like removing the pulley a breeze as well, because you can get an impact wrench on the nut. In other words, you can swim across the English Channel... but what OSS and I were saying is that it might be easier to take the ferry.

The PO probably did use a different bolt. I replaced mine when I reinstalled my pump. A slightly shallower head is about all it takes.

Yes understood. I just got lucky with mine. I am not disputing the suggested methods here and certainly appreciate the tip. Reading my post again about this working, I may have come across as sort of accusatory. Not the intent. I was just surprised and excited when the pump came off the bracket on mine. I did not really think it would work having read your suggestion and I was just trying this on a whim. I read another post somewhere on another site where the guy detailed this exact job and ran into the issue of the bolt head hitting the exhaust, so I knew this was a common thing.

I seemed to have dropped the socket that fits the engine mounting bolts somewhere and could not find it to remove the bolts mounting the bracket to the motor (14mm I think). I was going to have to get another socket before removing the bolts so was sort of stuck. On mine the bolts are hard to see looking down on the motor. Did not check from the bottom up. I thought what the hell lets just try removing the pump off the bracket with nothing else to do and it worked. Lucky me. Again thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[CaptClose]

Sorry Robert... didn't mean to sound defensive. Just pointing out what worked for me, but with every task on a Land Cruiser, there's always more than one way to skin that cat. Whichever way works for you, is the best way. Good work brother.

 

[Gretsch]

Unhook and drain is enough. When refilling you'll need to jack up both front tires. Side to side like you said w/ a bottle dumped upside down (or som

OK got it. Great. Thanks for this.

OK I know I said "I got it" but after looking at the system for a few days I wanted to make sure I fully understand the procedure here. I finally got my parts in, spent most of today replacing everything. I am to the point of getting the new pump primed and going, but want to make double sure I don't do this wrong and break this gem of a pump.

I looked through the FSM. It seems to indicate that what you do here is detach the hose going to the little side spout thing off the reservoir, put a bottle under the spout and then place the detached end of the hose into the same bottle. So if I understand this right, the procedure is something like this:

1. Jack front of truck up so front wheels are off the ground.
2. Detach the cooler to reservoir hose.
3. Place bottle under the reservoir spout
4. Place detached end of hose into bottle
5. Fill reservoir with ATF.
6. With engine off, turn steering wheel lock to lock, both left to right.
7. Fill fluid up in reservoir
8. Lower truck to ground.
9. With some way to pour in ATF to the reservoir continuously, start the truck and turn the steering wheel side to side to pressurize the system. Keep turning until fresh ATF is coming out of the return hose into the bottle.
10. Shut truck off, attach the cooler to reservoir hose. Check for leaks. Check ATF fluid level in reservoir and make sure its at the right level.

Could someone confirm or correct me on the above steps?

 

[Gretsch]

OK not what I was after above. See my question below:

OK I know I said "I got it" but after looking at the system for a few days I wanted to make sure I fully understand the procedure here. I finally got my parts in, spent most of today replacing everything. I am to the point of getting the new pump primed and going, but want to make double sure I don't do this wrong and break this gem of a pump.

I looked through the FSM. It seems to indicate that what you do here is detach the hose going to the little side spout thing off the reservoir, put a bottle under the spout and then place the detached end of the hose into the same bottle. So if I understand this right, the procedure is something like this:

1. Jack front of truck up so front wheels are off the ground.
2. Detach the cooler to reservoir hose.
3. Place bottle under the reservoir spout
4. Place detached end of hose into bottle
5. Fill reservoir with ATF.
6. With engine off, turn steering wheel lock to lock, both left to right.
7. Fill fluid up in reservoir
8. Lower truck to ground.
9. With some way to pour in ATF to the reservoir continuously, start the truck and turn the steering wheel side to side to pressurize the system. Keep turning until fresh ATF is coming out of the return hose into the bottle.
10. Shut truck off, attach the cooler to reservoir hose. Check for leaks. Check ATF fluid level in reservoir and make sure its at the right level.

Could someone confirm or correct me on the above steps?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Shoot man did you get help or get it figured out? Sorry I was flat out today reinstalling my cylinder head, ect. Just stopped about a half hour ago and resting on the couch now.
When I did my new used pump, I had the return hose detached from the hardline on the frame rail and had it stuck into a bottle. I jacked up the front end and put the tires on stands, it was only off the ground a few inches or less.
Then I filled the res and started the truck... I kept jumping in and out of the truck, alternating adding fluid and turning the wheel lock to lock because I was not just filling, I was flushing the old junk out. Truck was running the whole time. The fluid that went into the bottle was hot. My bottle was simply a milk jug and it did end up w/ a small melted hole in the side tho I was able to tip it so it didn't leak.
What I told you well above was 'I think' you can flip a bottle upside down and it will keep glugging in the res and you won't get air pockets. I'm pretty sure I did and had to add fluid for a week or so after install to compensate.
I believe that's what I did. Someone can correct me on how I did it for sure.

 

[Gretsch]

No worries. I got this going. I enlisted the help of my wife and son to get this going. I followed the list I laid out pretty much. I filled the reservoir, while my wife manned the bucket and hose, and my son turned the wheel. I took the return off the side spout thing, place a bucket under the spout with the hose in it, and ran the system as I filled the reservoir watching for ATF to spill out of the return hose. I did this a couple of times because I had to dump the bucket. The second time, my wife misunderstood that she needed to have the hose in the bucket, so ATF sprayed all down the inner fender and under the truck. I was focused on filling pump so did not notice it right away. What a mess. Garage stinks of ATF now. Can't get good help these days. Kidding. She was a huge help and I am not sure how one person could pull this off.

I dropped the truck down and then ran the system with weight on it. Needed to add ATF as it was groaning a bit. With all the ATF spray maylay I am not sure I got out all the air pockets so I will most likely be doing what you did and just go about adding ATF in the coming days. Took her for a test drive and the steering felt great and the clacking noise I was getting from the broken pulley was gone. Sounds like a new truck.

Couple of observations after having done this repair. I would say that removing the bracket off the engine is the way to go as everyone said. The rear mounting bolt on mine was great to come right out to remove the old pump, but getting it back in to the new pump was a different story. Took me over an hour to get it started and the pump mounted properly. This would have certainly been made easier with the engine bracket out. Also, when replacing the woodruff key in the pump shaft, I needed to tap it in lightly with a hammer to get it to seat properly in the shaft groove. Once that was done the pulley went right on no issues. I can now see how the old woodruff could have come out. You can get the pulley on the shaft without the woodruff properly seated if you work it enough. This could allow the key to shear under load. But if the woodruff key is properly seated, the pulley goes right on without any resistance. Also, when first starting the truck, the fan is turning. Its right next to the reservoir for the PS pump. When filling the reservoir, be careful to do so at an angle that will not allow the fan air to spray ATF across the engine bay. I did this and sprayed ATF all over my wife standing holding the bucket. Luckily she had protective goggles on, but was not too happy about having ATF all over her. She was a trooper though.

So I made this a bigger deal than it needed to be with this thread. Its an easy enough repair to do and I feel great about knowing I did it with Toyota OEM parts (except for the NAPA hose). I really do appreciate all the helpful feedback in getting this going and for being patient with a noob like me. This forum is absolutely the best in the business. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!!!

 

[Gretsch]

Sorry to resurrect this already long thread. After a few weeks of driving this with the new pump, I still get this slight 'clacking' sound coming from the pump. Seems like maybe the pulley knocking into the front housing of the pump. It used to be fairly loud when the pulley was broken but now its just a light tapping sound. Sounds like more of a rattle now. Was thinking about maybe putting a little grease on the side of the pulley that contacts the front of the pump in an effort to quiet it down. Is there any issue with doing that? I don't see any visible wobble in the pulley and the belt seems to deflect the 1/8" the FSM calls for so I don't think its too tight. Just has this unnerving light rattle sound to it. PS works great however. I know I am getting picky here but the reality is it bugs me. Anyway any help here is appreciated.

 

[fjgdk]

Sorry to resurrect this already long thread. After a few weeks of driving this with the new pump, I still get this slight 'clacking' sound coming from the pump. Seems like maybe the pulley knocking into the front housing of the pump. It used to be fairly loud when the pulley was broken but now its just a light tapping sound. Sounds like more of a rattle now. Was thinking about maybe putting a little grease on the side of the pulley that contacts the front of the pump in an effort to quiet it down. Is there any issue with doing that? I don't see any visible wobble in the pulley and the belt seems to deflect the 1/8" the FSM calls for so I don't think its too tight. Just has this unnerving light rattle sound to it. PS works great however. I know I am getting picky here but the reality is it bugs me. Anyway any help here is appreciated.

Did you ever figure out what the "lighter" clacking was ?

This is a great thread, I kind of work like you in I don't like to go forward with something unless I understand the reasoning completely, especially if it differs from the FSM. I spent about 7 months doing a front axle job (my first), because I wanted everything right. I wouldn't do it any other way.


Right now I am dealing with cooling issues, seems like the water pump belt was way loose and I can see the tensioning adjuster setup on the air pump is missing. Since the back bolt on the air pump "pivot" is very difficult to access, I want to remove the ps pump to get to it. How hard would it be for me to simply remove the ps pump and then put it back on ? If I remove the pulley, does the woodruff key fall out or does that require something else to become loose ? If I have to remove the ps hoses, how difficult is the bleeding ? I read the fsm and your write up/summary of the fsm instructions seems spot on. I've never done it however and would rather have some input from someone who just did it.

Thanks.

 

[Gretsch]

The PS pump removal is not real hard to do.....unless the mounting bolt on the back side of the pump is long. I think normally the head of the bolt will knock into the exhaust manifold stopping it from turning before the bolt comes all the way out of the pump bracket. I did not encounter this however, but am told I am in the minority there. As I described getting the rear bolt back into the pump housing on mine was a beat down. That took me over an hour to get done. I was able to lift the pump out with the hoses attached if memory serves. The pulley comes off easily. Make sure you loosen the front shaft nut holding the pulley on before you loosen the belt.

I am not sure on the woodruff key. Mine was missing when I removed the pulley so not sure how tight its in there. The new key I got for my pump did not set in right away and I had to tap it in lightly with a hammer. It seemed to stay put after that so I think you should be OK. I have read other threads though where the key fell out after removing the pulley. I think it would depend on how worn the key and shaft are. I would prolly spin the pump shaft around where the key is pointing upward and then slide the pulley off. You should be able to tell where the key is by looking in front of the pulley. With the nut off the shaft, the pulley should just slide off. Some say its pressed on but it slid right on for me. Maybe that's why its making noise. Not sure.

The bleeding process is not difficult either, just lots of things to do all at once. The trick is to just make the pump work while ensuring fluid is continuously filling the reservoir. Just need to get the pump pumping through a continuous flow of fluid. Don't let it run dry. Just remove the return hose (hose attached to the side down tube off the reservoir), place it in a bucket of some sort, start the engine, and start filling. The fluid comes firing out of there pretty good so just be ready for it. I just kept doing it until nothing but clean fluid is coming out of the hose, then re-attached the hose to the down tube. Listening to the pump was easiest for me. The pump got quieter as fluid entered the system so you could kinda tell when you were good to go. Like I mentioned though the radiator fan blows pretty good at start-up right across where you fill the reservoir of the pump so be careful not to blow ATF everywhere.

The light clacking is still there. I tried putting grease on the backside of the pulley but it still make a bit of a sound. For all I know that's how its supposed to sound. The pulley does not seem to wobble so not sure what the deal is. PS works great though. Still would appreciate guidance here.

Having said all this I would say that if there is another way to access the air pump bolt, like from underneath I would look hard into that first before moving the pump. Not hard, just a few gotchas that may make things slower. Hope that answers things and good luck. HTH

 

[fjgdk]

The PS pump removal is not real hard to do.....unless the mounting bolt on the back side of the pump is long. I think normally the head of the bolt will knock into the exhaust manifold stopping it from turning before the bolt comes all the way out of the pump bracket. I did not encounter this however, but am told I am in the minority there. As I described getting the rear bolt back into the pump housing on mine was a beat down. That took me over an hour to get done. I was able to lift the pump out with the hoses attached if memory serves. The pulley comes off easily. Make sure you loosen the front shaft nut holding the pulley on before you loosen the belt.

I am not sure on the woodruff key. Mine was missing when I removed the pulley so not sure how tight its in there. The new key I got for my pump did not set in right away and I had to tap it in lightly with a hammer. It seemed to stay put after that so I think you should be OK. I have read other threads though where the key fell out after removing the pulley. I think it would depend on how worn the key and shaft are. I would prolly spin the pump shaft around where the key is pointing upward and then slide the pulley off. You should be able to tell where the key is by looking in front of the pulley. With the nut off the shaft, the pulley should just slide off. Some say its pressed on but it slid right on for me. Maybe that's why its making noise. Not sure.

The bleeding process is not difficult either, just lots of things to do all at once. The trick is to just make the pump work while ensuring fluid is continuously filling the reservoir. Just need to get the pump pumping through a continuous flow of fluid. Don't let it run dry. Just remove the return hose (hose attached to the side down tube off the reservoir), place it in a bucket of some sort, start the engine, and start filling. The fluid comes firing out of there pretty good so just be ready for it. I just kept doing it until nothing but clean fluid is coming out of the hose, then re-attached the hose to the down tube. Listening to the pump was easiest for me. The pump got quieter as fluid entered the system so you could kinda tell when you were good to go. Like I mentioned though the radiator fan blows pretty good at start-up right across where you fill the reservoir of the pump so be careful not to blow ATF everywhere.

The light clacking is still there. I tried putting grease on the backside of the pulley but it still make a bit of a sound. For all I know that's how its supposed to sound. The pulley does not seem to wobble so not sure what the deal is. PS works great though. Still would appreciate guidance here.

Having said all this I would say that if there is another way to access the air pump bolt, like from underneath I would look hard into that first before moving the pump. Not hard, just a few gotchas that may make things slower. Hope that answers things and good luck. HTH

Thanks this is very helpful. As far as bleeding, am I correct that I remove the return hose and submerge it in ATF in a bucket while doing the bleeding ? The big question I have is do I have to keep the hose submerged in fluid while bleeding ?