FJ60 Power Steering Pulley Removal and PS Pump Install (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

Thanks this is very helpful. As far as bleeding, am I correct that I remove the return hose and submerge it in ATF in a bucket while doing the bleeding ? The big question I have is do I have to keep the hose submerged in fluid while bleeding ?

I don't think its critical to have it submerged, but prolly would help in keeping air out of the system. I don't know how easy it would be to see the fluid flow if the hose is submerged, but its prolly not a bad plan to do as you suggest. I did not have it submerged when I did it, just let it fire out into the canister. By doing this this way you could clearly see the old fluid transition to the new fluid. Mine went from burnt brown to red and once I achieved a constant flow of red I hooked up the return hose and stopped filling ATF. Mine also was sort of pink and foamy for a bit as it transitioned the old out. I looked for that clear ruby red of ATF before I stopped. It only took about 10 minutes maybe start to finish.

The fluid can get pretty hot so make sure its in something that won't melt easily. I used an old steel pot my wife had for this. I would suggest you get something pretty good sized as well. I had to do this several times as the pot I had was small. My hose was kind of short and I kept it up high close to the return down spout so I could quickly connect it up once I got the bleeding done. This did not allow for a very big bucket as space there was limited. If I had to do this again I would prolly do what you are suggesting and submerging the hose in a bucket. The key is just to get things to a point where you have a constant flow of ATF through the system while turning the wheel back and forth. If you can achieve that then I would call it good. The pump will tell you a lot just by listening to it. You can hear the change in the noise level as you pour ATF in.

Again though I think you should be able to move the pump with hoses attached. Maybe set it off somewhere on the inside fender well. Would depend on hose length I guess but on mine I would have been able to do what you describe without disconnecting anything I think. If you do end up doing the bleeding it might be a good time to replace those worn hoses. If yours are anything like mine were, it was definitely time to replace them. HTH.

 

[fjgdk]

I don't think its critical to have it submerged, but prolly would help in keeping air out of the system. I don't know how easy it would be to see the fluid flow if the hose is submerged, but its prolly not a bad plan to do as you suggest. I did not have it submerged when I did it, just let it fire out into the canister. By doing this this way you could clearly see the old fluid transition to the new fluid. Mine went from burnt brown to red and once I achieved a constant flow of red I hooked up the return hose and stopped filling ATF. Mine also was sort of pink and foamy for a bit as it transitioned the old out. I looked for that clear ruby red of ATF before I stopped. It only took about 10 minutes maybe start to finish.

The fluid can get pretty hot so make sure its in something that won't melt easily. I used an old steel pot my wife had for this. I would suggest you get something pretty good sized as well. I had to do this several times as the pot I had was small. My hose was kind of short and I kept it up high close to the return down spout so I could quickly connect it up once I got the bleeding done. This did not allow for a very big bucket as space there was limited. If I had to do this again I would prolly do what you are suggesting and submerging the hose in a bucket. The key is just to get things to a point where you have a constant flow of ATF through the system while turning the wheel back and forth. If you can achieve that then I would call it good. The pump will tell you a lot just by listening to it. You can hear the change in the noise level as you pour ATF in.

Again though I think you should be able to move the pump with hoses attached. Maybe set it off somewhere on the inside fender well. Would depend on hose length I guess but on mine I would have been able to do what you describe without disconnecting anything I think. If you do end up doing the bleeding it might be a good time to replace those worn hoses. If yours are anything like mine were, it was definitely time to replace them. HTH.

OK thanks again with the info.

I went out today to loosen the PS pulley bolt. I put the alternator back on along with the belt as I had all the belts off and the alternator off to de-rust it's mounting components.

Anyhow, when I had the belt on nice and snug I took a long 19mm box end wrench to the bolt and turned. It woudn't come off, but what's more that I have a question about...the pulley turned the belt and the whole operation -alternator AND ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT ! I wouldn't think that turning that bolt would give me anywhere near the torque to turn the drive pullet - essentially the engine. Does this mean my engine is toast ?

 

[bhk]

Anyhow, when I had the belt on nice and snug I took a long 19mm box end wrench to the bolt and turned. It woudn't come off, but what's more that I have a question about...the pulley turned the belt and the whole operation -alternator AND ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT ! I wouldn't think that turning that bolt would give me anywhere near the torque to turn the drive pullet - essentially the engine. Does this mean my engine is toast ?

This is normal. That's how I rotate the engine to adjust the valves (I usually use the alternator, but same thing). If you're in gear, you can actually move the whole truck this way.

 

[fjgdk]

This is normal. That's how I rotate the engine to adjust the valves (I usually use the alternator, but same thing). If you're in gear, you can actually move the whole truck this way.

Whew ! Your response is a huge relief!

For my understanding, which I obviously need more of, how is this possible ? I assumed that since the compression of the engine can hold the truck on a hill without the e-brake and the tranny in neutral, that there is no way I should be able to move the whole drive train with a human turning a bolt on an accessory. Any insight would be much appreciated .

 

[fjgdk]

This is normal. That's how I rotate the engine to adjust the valves (I usually use the alternator, but same thing). If you're in gear, you can actually move the whole truck this way.

Also, can I use an air impact on the PS pump pulley nut or will that destroy the pump internals ?

There is no way the FSM is correct for my truck regarding how to take off the PS pump. That rear bolt is currently, while tightened, nearly touching the exhaust manifold already.

 

[Gretsch]

Also, can I use an air impact on the PS pump pulley nut or will that destroy the pump internals ?

There is no way the FSM is correct for my truck regarding how to take off the PS pump. That rear bolt is currently, while tightened, nearly touching the exhaust manifold already.

Mine was the same but I still could get it backed out far enough to loosen. But again I am told that's not normally how it goes. Most folks take the entire mounting bracket off the engine block to do this. I found it more difficult on mine to do it that way and since it worked just by removing the bolts mounting the pump to the bracket, I did it that way.

As far as using an impact wrench on the nut, I am not sure on that. With the expense of these pumps these days, I myself would be worried about using one, but perhaps someone else can comment. The nut on mine came right off with little force, even with the woodruff key busted. Wedged a screw driver against the pulley and mounting bracket to lock it on the shaft and keep shaft from spinning while turning the nut and broke it loose.

 

[bhk]

Whew ! Your response is a huge relief!

For my understanding, which I obviously need more of, how is this possible ? I assumed that since the compression of the engine can hold the truck on a hill without the e-brake and the tranny in neutral, that there is no way I should be able to move the whole drive train with a human turning a bolt on an accessory. Any insight would be much appreciated .

If the tranny is in neutral, you'll roll without the parking brake.

Very simplistically speaking, it's the same as a lever. By the time you've run through all the gearing, the wheels are on the short end of the lever and the crank is on the long end. It takes relatively little force, but a lot of travel on the long end to get the short end to move. Conversely, it takes a lot of force, but very little travel on the short end to get the long end to move. With a completely stock setup for a 60 in 1st, 1 complete revolution of the engine translates to about 7" of wheel travel. If you're cranking on an accessory, you've got even more leverage because of the small accessory drive pulley vs the larger crank pulley.

The compression does provide significant resistance. If you're turning the engine over by hand like this, it's much easier if you pull the plugs first. If you don't pull the plugs, you'll feel it when a cylinder goes into the compression stroke.

 

[bhk]

Also, can I use an air impact on the PS pump pulley nut or will that destroy the pump internals ?

There is no way the FSM is correct for my truck regarding how to take off the PS pump. That rear bolt is currently, while tightened, nearly touching the exhaust manifold already.

But back to the problem at hand, you should be able to get some extra resistance by putting the transmission in 4th and chocking the rear wheels.

 

[DFXR]

Maybe you've already gone down the road with this, but I was able to replace my air pump years ago without moving the PS Pump at all. I did take the belt off but that's it. For that pivot bolt I remember a lot of reaching and a lot of short turns with a spanner. For me it was the AI system and all of the related hoses and valves on that side of the engine that were the biggest obstruction.

If you are committed to removing the PS pump - as Robert said, if you can't back that rear bolt out all the way, then you're gonna have to remove the whole bracket + pump as one assembly. It's really not that bad - three bolts on the side of the block and a stud (most likely) on the front.

Here's a picture of what the mounting surface looks like. There's another threaded hole hidden from view here under the ex manifold but easy to get to with an extension. Also, mine did not have the stud on the front of the block but most cruisers do:

Putting it back on as one big unit is harder than removing it - it's heavy, and it's hard to blind thread the mounting bolts while supporting the combined assembly. So I mounted the bracket alone, with a replacement short bolt + lock washer "pre-loaded" into that tricky rear hole, then put the pump in. Pretty easy once you have a plan.

When you bleed and refill - be prepared for a lot of fluid moving very fast. You don't want to run your pump dry.

 

[Gretsch]

Maybe you've already gone down the road with this, but I was able to replace my air pump years ago without moving the PS Pump at all. I did take the belt off but that's it. For that pivot bolt I remember a lot of reaching and a lot of short turns with a spanner. For me it was the AI system and all of the related hoses and valves on that side of the engine that were the biggest obstruction.

If you are committed to removing the PS pump - as Robert said, if you can't back that rear bolt out all the way, then you're gonna have to remove the whole bracket + pump as one assembly. It's really not that bad - three bolts on the side of the block and a stud (most likely) on the front.

Here's a picture of what the mounting surface looks like. There's another threaded hole hidden from view here under the ex manifold but easy to get to with an extension. Also, mine did not have the stud on the front of the block but most cruisers do:

View attachment 1535954

Putting it back on as one big unit is harder than removing it - it's heavy, and it's hard to blind thread the mounting bolts while supporting the combined assembly. So I mounted the bracket alone, with a replacement short bolt + lock washer "pre-loaded" into that tricky rear hole, then put the pump in. Pretty easy once you have a plan.

When you bleed and refill - be prepared for a lot of fluid moving very fast. You don't want to run your pump dry.

Yes you have to move quick when bleeding. Lots going on at once and it was quite chaotic for me. I had two helpers as I filled the reservoir. You'll want a big jug of that ATF ready to roll. Folks say they do it alone so it can be done but helped me to have helpers around.

 

[fjgdk]

Thanks alot Mr. Frantzke, DFXR and BHK.
I ended up taking the pulley off with a few quick impact bursts. Nothing else was working. The woodruff key was in there and didnt come out. I left it in there while I de-rust the pulley and work on getting to the air pump.

My original problem was that the belt adjusting bolts for the air pump were missong and the water pump wasnt turning and because of a loose bolt and viola ! Overheating.

I got the missing pieces but i want to clean up the surfaces that the air pump "slides" on when adjusting the belt. Unfortunately that will mean taking out that hard to reach bottom pivot bolt and cleaning it up and greasing it up.

 

[Gretsch]

So I still have a slight noise coming from the steering pump. I tried to use some new washers for the pump to see if that would seat the pulley a little better, but still the noise is there. Perhaps this is just the way it sounds. I uploaded a video so you can hopefully hear if this sounds normal. If anyone can let me know if this is the normal sound of the pump or not I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It's really hard to tell if that clacking is from it or not. A few times it stopped when you got the camera at a certain distance from it.
@mwebfj60 or @OSS.... you guys hear it?

 

[OSS]

That sound, wherever it's coming from, is not normal. Something sounds like it's on the verge of grenading at highway speeds.

 

[Gretsch]

The only reason I think its the pump is because it used to be much louder until I replaced the pump and pulley. It sounds better than it did. The rhythm of the sound seems to go along with the movement of the pump to me. There is the smog pump below it which I guess could also make the sound but it seems to go with the PS pump to me. Any idea on what could make a sound like that if not the PS pump. I don't show it in the video but when revving the engine the sound seems to go away. Not sure if it stops or is just drowned out by the noise of the rev such that its no longer audible, but I don't hear it anymore when revving the motor. Thanks OSS for the implanting the worry of highway speed grenading parts.

I think the sound cutting out in the video was just the sound not getting picked up for a moment but I guess its possible when I moved in on the pump whatever is making the sound was away from the mic and not picked up. Not sure what to think now.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Can you place a long flathead against the housing and hold the handle to your ear and see if it reverberates thru it?

 

[mwebfj60]

The only reason I think its the pump is because it used to be much louder until I replaced the pump and pulley. It sounds better than it did. The rhythm of the sound seems to go along with the movement of the pump to me. There is the smog pump below it which I guess could also make the sound but it seems to go with the PS pump to me. Any idea on what could make a sound like that if not the PS pump. I don't show it in the video but when revving the engine the sound seems to go away. Not sure if it stops or is just drowned out by the noise of the rev such that its no longer audible, but I don't hear it anymore when revving the motor. Thanks OSS for the implanting the worry of highway speed grenading parts.

I think the sound cutting out in the video was just the sound not getting picked up for a moment but I guess its possible when I moved in on the pump whatever is making the sound was away from the mic and not picked up. Not sure what to think now.

Pull the belt off and run the motor for a short time, try to isolate the component making the noise.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

@OSS is really good w/ words.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Pull the belt off and run the motor for a short time, try to isolate the component making the noise.

Good suggestion. I was trying to think what could you remove from the equation and there it is.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What about a mechanics stethoscope?