FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump

[Fzjrvakma]

It's from an '89, going into a '79.

 

[PabloCruise]

Does anyone make a template for where to mount the steering box on the frame? The frame I'm building is completely stripped, so going off the linkage, etc. is not an option.

Not that I know of.

When you mount the box, you want the proper angle on the pitman arm. You also want the box forward enough that when you are at full L or full R the rod end is till forward of the other end.

Does that make sense?

This looks pretty good to me, but I could be missing something:

From here: RTH: drag link rod end thread size - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rth-drag-link-rod-end-thread-size.1340029/page-2#post-15706508 (good stuff in this thread)

 

[PabloCruise]

It's from an '89, going into a '79.

According to my friend @LAMBCRUSHER when he was asked about the 80 series steering box:

The pattern is the same as late 60/62 - the early 60, up to ?84?, had a symmetrical bolt pattern. The late 60 - fzj80 shared an asymmetrical bolt pattern. The 80 series box is slightly beefier than the 60/62. I think has a larger sector shaft. The splines on the inputs and outputs are the same. I think.

RTH: drag link rod end thread size

EDIT: For posterity; the passenger side relay rod end is a 17mm left hand thread. According to Toyo DIY and Specter, the fj40 and fj 55 share the same toe rod ends and relay rod ends. Oddly enough, the 4 end “kits” that Specter and other Land Cruiser suppliers sell list the kits as different...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

EDIT: THIS IS ON A 55 SERIES; NOT A 40...

I think where I have my box mounted is as far back as one would want ***with a shackle reversal.

The shackle up front (stock configuration) has the axle sitting aft just a tad from where it sits with the shackles out back - on this variation of it. Even if mine were stock, I wouldn't want the box sitting much further back, if at all. I am VERY close to crossing swords at full lock with this positioning...

basic rule of thumb; you want the drag link to be as close to square and level as possible to avoid any unwanted full lock/ full stuff/ full droop steering influence. also want to try to keep the pitman arm swing within a certain degree of level, if possible.

My positioning of the box was an exerise of compromise of all issues at play - that I am aware of...

 

[PabloCruise]

I think where I have my box mounted is as far back as one would want ***with a shackle reversal.

The shackle up front (stock configuration) has the axle sitting aft just a tad from where it sits with the shackles out back - on this variation of it. Even if mine were stock, I wouldn't want the box sitting much further back, if at all. I am VERY close to crossing swords at full lock with this positioning...

basic rule of thumb; you want the drag link to be as close to square and level as possible to avoid any unwanted full lock/ full stuff/ full droop steering influence. also want to try to keep the pitman arm swing within a certain degree of level, if possible.

My positioning of the box was an exerise of compromise of all issues at play - that I am aware of...

Nicely worded, and good points about qualifying the shackle reversal.

 

[merbesfield]

Can this modification be done on a 40 series and leave the original shock tower in place? I recall it needs to be trimmed a bit. The picture above shows it removed.

 

[PabloCruise]

Can this modification be done on a 40 series and leave the original shock tower in place? I recall it needs to be trimmed a bit. The picture above shows it removed.

I went w/ the F-250 shock mount.
I think you can trim/clearance the factory shock tower to clear the steering column.

 

[merbesfield]

I went w/ the F-250 shock mount.
I think you can trim/clearance the factory shock tower to clear the steering column.

I have read about this option, but for me my 40 is crazy low mileage (43K) original truck so I don’t want to do anything to crazy w the mods. I feel like the FJ60/80 steering upgrade would be well received given how poorly these rigs drive and steer.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I have seen where they moved the box forward but had to trim the bib to accomplish it. either you will also have to cut the inner fender to clear the box.

 

[merbesfield]

I have seen where they moved the box forward but had to trim the bib to accomplish it. either you will also have to cut the inner fender to clear the box.

I am OK cutting the inter fender. I can make that look like a factory cut. Is it possible during mock up to play with these tolerances or do you have to make a decision and just go for it?

 

[POPO AGIE]

I have seen how cutting the fender worked real well and looked like factory. If you don't shim the steering box away from the frame it can also crowed the radiator support and the side of the Bib if you move away from the frame you will have more clearance with the radiator and the bid. if you get the steering box or find one in the junk yard that is similar you can remove the fender and c-clamp the box to the frame and they you can see what you can do with the room you have.

If you move it forward it will increase the angle to the steering arm but should be better then with my high steer arms.

 

[merbesfield]

I have seen how cutting the fender worked real well and looked like factory. If you don't shim the steering box away from the frame it can also crowed the radiator support and the side of the Bib if you move away from the frame you will have more clearance with the radiator and the bid. if you get the steering box or find one in the junk yard that is similar you can remove the fender and c-clamp the box to the frame and they you can see what you can do with the room you have.

If you move it forward it will increase the angle to the steering arm but should be better then with my high steer arms.

Thanks for the tips. This project is a good ways off bc I have to finish those I have already started.