I just went to the wrecking yard and asked for 75 series rods and tre. No idea of part no.
60 series stuff was from a car I had heading for scrap. 60, 70, 75, 80 tie rod ends are all the same size.
Well now that I found that nice 70-series relay rod that fits so perfectly, I have been contemplating some upgrades to my front axle; ARB and 60-series knuckles.
When I try to think through the 60 knuckles and all the changes I would have to make, it occurs to me I would need a new tie rod for the 60 series TREs, and it would have to be custom width for the 40/55 housing.
What do people do for their tie rod when they put 60 knuckles on a 40 housing? Cut a 60 tie rod and weld?
Looks like these guys up in Red Feather will make custom: http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfo...d=116&osCsid=faa04f924e90ae26a12d7d637d1c0167
But then I started thinking about my clever 70 series relay rod, and wondering it it will still fit after the 60 knuckle upgrade!
The problem is the front bushing on the OEM pump. It is small, and it has no provision for pressure lubrication.
The PO will see the belt tensioner bolt on the alternator and tighten that until the belt is tuned to a G sharp (twang). That pulls sideways on the PS pulley and cause the pump shaft to eat the front bushing. Eventually there is enough sideways deflection of the shaft that it is no longer centered in the seal. Then the seal leaks.
The problem is there is no off the shelf bushing replacement for the pump, AFAIK. So rebuilding and replacing the front seal is often a temporary fix.
most vehicles have a steering damper from the factory, so I wouldn't say it really is used for a mask. To me it's a safety thing; it reduces odd shimmies that turn into harmonic shimmies that result in death wobble...
but I agree with you that if you feel something you didn't have before, it needs to be fixed. But after you fix your TRE's, I would look into installing a steering damper too.
But that's just me.
Thinking about running a steering stabilizer again, but it would have to be a pretty short unit to use the factory mount on the front cross-member and the 60 series relay rod end...
What have people done for this?
I used complete 75 series knuckle arms, tie rod and drag link with 75 tie rod ends. Then I moved the factory stabilizer mount about 100mm (I think, I can check) and used a 75 steering stabilizer. From what I can work out, a 60 stabilizer would also work as they are the same as 75.
Passenger side for me (RHD). Basically I moved the mount further away from the steering box because the 75/60 steering stabilizer is fairly long.So you had to move the mount over toward the passenger side of the front crossmember?
Passenger side for me (RHD). Basically I moved the mount further away from the steering box because the 75/60 steering stabilizer is fairly long.
Although, you used 60 relay rod end, they are different to the 75 one.
I know, I think the 60 relay rod end is longer than the 70. But I am not sure if it puts the stabilizer any further towards my passenger side (LHD).
Did you weld the mount? Bolt-on? Rivet?
you all do know there are different lengths of steering stabilizers? here are 2 i had on my list that are toyota applications.
MONROE SC2946 16.5”-25.6” and MONROE SC2916 13.25-22.25”
I just hadn't gone lock to lock to measure the distance. I also have a few different stabilizers sitting in the garage to test fit.