FJ60 Headlights Upgrade - Question

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Aug 19, 2020
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Location
Orlando, Florida
Fellas,

Any suggestions on upgrading the headlights for an FJ60?
I have seen several posts about LED vs Original but seems like we are all over the place on this issue. Some LED upgrades I have seen are a bit complicated and looks like the high beam not working properly, etc.
I just want to replace my old crappy headlights with a simple, bright solution.

Any suggestions? and any links to the lights will be helpful.

Thanks for the help guys!
J
 
suggestions will be all over the place. To see what I did click my build thread in my signature line. and Go to pg2 post 38. There are links to amazon if you want to check out prices and order. It was a "simple and bright solution".

 
Fellas,

Any suggestions on upgrading the headlights for an FJ60?
I have seen several posts about LED vs Original but seems like we are all over the place on this issue. Some LED upgrades I have seen are a bit complicated and looks like the high beam not working properly, etc.
I just want to replace my old crappy headlights with a simple, bright solution.

Any suggestions? and any links to the lights will be helpful.

Thanks for the help guys!
J
suggestions will be all over the place. To see what I did click my build thread in my signature line. and Go to pg2 post 38. There are links to amazon if you want to check out prices and order. It was a "simple and bright solution".



check this option out

BEST Darn Option ALL JIS GLASS Product........


No where else you will all GLASS !






A_LI-Copy_2048x.jpg
 
I can't find a link or the part number but Toyota offers a complete kit, 2 headlights with H4 bulbs, wiring with relays that is a vast improvement over the original stock headlights. It's an easy plug-and-play installation. The whole setup can be had for ca. $50-75. Probably the best headlight value upgrade available. I'm running these in 2 FJ60s.
 
I have input on so many of these headlight threads that I've got a upgrade tiered checklist in my mind now.

The base line is stock sealed beam halogen which are relatively low wattage and a very inefficient light pattern.

First mod from cost and complexity

1. Replace the stock sealed beams with a Ecode (Left hand drive European spec pattern) halogen housing. IPF, Hella, Cibie, Koito etc all offer options here and are all significantly better than the stock sealed beam units even if you run a standard H4 50/60 watt bulb.
- 20 minutes to swap and aim
- Works with stock wiring
- won't affect the high beam indicator
- The light pattern is what is the win here. Much cleaner and more efficient with a clear low beam and high beam cutoff.
Cons:
- Your stock wiring may be old an brittle and resulting in a significant voltage drop to the bulbs which will decrease output and can load the charging system more....dim lights on idle that perk up with revs is one sign of a problem

2. Do #1 and either rebuild the light portion of your stock harness with newer and heavier wires and all new connectors to reduce line losses or install an aftermarket or aftermarket custom built harness.
- Uses stock wiring to trigger a new harness whose sole purpose is to power the lights and minimize voltage drops.
- If not properly accounted for you may have troubles with getting the high beam indicator to work properly
- This is more expensive than just going to a better housing but it does help get the most out of modern headlight design.

3. LED bulb inserts in H4 housing: Once you have done #1 you can now play around with all sorts of bulbs including LED insert bulbs. The caveat here is that if you run a high wattage H4 bulb you really need to do #2 as well as the stock harness will likely have issues with the high wattage bulbs.
- LED inserts vary in price and quality.
- H4 Bulbs are so standardized that they wont affect your light pattern but will just output different levels of brightness.
- Poorly designed LED's can place the light improperly in the housing resulting in improper Hi and Lo beam orientation.

4. Full LED Housing retofit - you get what you pay for here
- Requires a conversion harness to work with an Fj60 or 62
- May not trigger your high beam indicator
- Prices vary greatly as does quality, patter, light output, offensiveness to oncoming drivers etc.
- Do your homework and if money is an issue you are probably better off with the above options instead of buying some cheapo LED housings.


One more note on LED's. LED's are rated in temperature Kelvin (K) which indicates the spectrum or basically the color of light. This is a great chart which illustrates the colors and shows that you don't want to go lower than 4000k or higher than 8000K. Personally I've always found that the lower end of the spectrum is less harsh on my eyes especially on the way that road signs reflect back at me at night.

1634739484982.png




Comparison:
IPF
1634739736115.png




Hella
1634739809510.png


Cibie

1634739861256.png


Koito

1634739917262.png
 
Last edited:
suggestions will be all over the place. To see what I did click my build thread in my signature line. and Go to pg2 post 38. There are links to amazon if you want to check out prices and order. It was a "simple and bright solution".

Thanks for the suggestion. Seems like like a simple plug and go option.
Those bulbs do not work with the stock glass? you have to get those as well? and do you need wiring at all?
How does it compare to the stock lights?

Thanks,
J.
 
check this option out

BEST Darn Option ALL JIS GLASS Product........


No where else you will all GLASS !






A_LI-Copy_2048x.jpg
Thanks!
Is this the one that people continue to say that the high beams don't work well?
Or I am confusing it with something else?


Thanks for the suggestion,
J
 
I can't find a link or the part number but Toyota offers a complete kit, 2 headlights with H4 bulbs, wiring with relays that is a vast improvement over the original stock headlights. It's an easy plug-and-play installation. The whole setup can be had for ca. $50-75. Probably the best headlight value upgrade available. I'm running these in 2 FJ60s.
Cool!! that sounds like something I could do.
 
I have input on so many of these headlight threads that I've got a upgrade tiered checklist in my mind now.

The base line is stock sealed beam halogen which are relatively low wattage and a very inefficient light pattern.

First mod from cost and complexity

1. Replace the stock sealed beams with a Ecode (Left hand drive European spec pattern) halogen housing. IPF, Hella, Cibie, Koito etc all offer options here and are all significantly better than the stock sealed beam units even if you run a standard H4 50/60 watt bulb.
- 20 minutes to swap and aim
- Works with stock wiring
- won't affect the high beam indicator
- The light pattern is what is the win here. Much cleaner and more efficient with a clear low beam and high beam cutoff.
Cons:
- Your stock wiring may be old an brittle and resulting in a significant voltage drop to the bulbs which will decrease output and can load the charging system more....dim lights on idle that perk up with revs is one sign of a problem

2. Do #1 and either rebuild the light portion of your stock harness with newer and heavier wires and all new connectors to reduce line losses or install an aftermarket or aftermarket custom built harness.
- Uses stock wiring to trigger a new harness whose sole purpose is to power the lights and minimize voltage drops.
- If not properly accounted for you may have troubles with getting the high beam indicator to work properly
- This is more expensive than just going to a better housing but it does help get the most out of modern headlight design.

3. LED bulb inserts in H4 housing: Once you have done #1 you can now play around with all sorts of bulbs including LED insert bulbs. The caveat here is that if you run a high wattage H4 bulb you really need to do #2 as well as the stock harness will likely have issues with the high wattage bulbs.
- LED inserts vary in price and quality.
- H4 Bulbs are so standardized that they wont affect your light pattern but will just output different levels of brightness.
- Poorly designed LED's can place the light improperly in the housing resulting in improper Hi and Lo beam orientation.

4. Full LED Housing retofit - you get what you pay for here
- Requires a conversion harness to work with an Fj60 or 62
- May not trigger your high beam indicator
- Prices vary greatly as does quality, patter, light output, offensiveness to oncoming drivers etc.
- Do your homework and if money is an issue you are probably better off with the above options instead of buying some cheapo LED housings.


One more note on LED's. LED's are rated in temperature Kelvin (K) which indicates the spectrum or basically the color of light. This is a great chart which illustrates the colors and shows that you don't want to go lower than 4000k or higher than 8000K. Personally I've always found that the lower end of the spectrum is less harsh on my eyes especially on the way that road signs reflect back at me at night.

View attachment 2816866
Wow. Thanks.
Honestly, I don't think i have a harness issue, cables seem to be fine. But again, they are old. I guess, without doing a bunch of work on wires, I would go with just the plug and go with #1.

Not sure if I want to get to #4.

Thanks,
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Seems like like a simple plug and go option.
Those bulbs do not work with the stock glass? you have to get those as well? and do you need wiring at all?
How does it compare to the stock lights?

Thanks,
J.
No the bulbs don't work with the stock sealed headlight lens. You have to buy the lens. The good thing is you can reach in from the back and pull the bulbs now wiithout taking out the lens. Yes, you do need the harness with the relays but it's pretty easy. You just unplug the stock headlight from it's plug on either side then plug the new harness into that headlight plug. Now your new harness and relays are connected to the stock wiring that goes to the column and light switches. All thats left is to connect the power wires to the battery and mount the relays on the side of your passenger side inner fender.
 
No the bulbs don't work with the stock sealed headlight lens. You have to buy the lens. The good thing is you can reach in from the back and pull the bulbs now wiithout taking out the lens. Yes, you do need the harness with the relays but it's pretty easy. You just unplug the stock headlight from it's plug on either side then plug the new harness into that headlight plug. Now your new harness and relays are connected to the stock wiring that goes to the column and light switches. All thats left is to connect the power wires to the battery and mount the relays on the side of your passenger side inner fender.
Seems simple enough. Lol. Don't worry, I will screw it up somehow anyways.
Thanks.
 
No the bulbs don't work with the stock sealed headlight lens. You have to buy the lens. The good thing is you can reach in from the back and pull the bulbs now wiithout taking out the lens. Yes, you do need the harness with the relays but it's pretty easy. You just unplug the stock headlight from it's plug on either side then plug the new harness into that headlight plug. Now your new harness and relays are connected to the stock wiring that goes to the column and light switches. All thats left is to connect the power wires to the battery and mount the relays on the side of your passenger side inner fender.
H4 bulbs will work fine with the stock FJ60 wiring. No need for an aftermarket harness.
 
OK, this is more like it price wise.
But I still have to do all the wiring correct?
No.

1. pull the headlight trim off
2. loosen the 3 screws on the headlight retainer bezzel so you can rotate it and remove it
3. unplug the stock sealed beam and pull it out of the truck.
4. Put the new H4 bulb in the new housing,
5. Plug the stock connector into the H4 bulb
6. align the nubs of the new housing into the holder
7. reinstall the retaining ring and tighten the screws
8. reinstall the headlight trim.

Repeat for the other side.

You don't have to run the supplied harness. The purpose of the supplied harness is to help reduce any voltage drops to headlights due to aged stock headlight wiring.
 
No.

1. pull the headlight trim off
2. loosen the 3 screws on the headlight retainer bezzel so you can rotate it and remove it
3. unplug the stock sealed beam and pull it out of the truck.
4. Put the new H4 bulb in the new housing,
5. Plug the stock connector into the H4 bulb
6. align the nubs of the new housing into the holder
7. reinstall the retaining ring and tighten the screws
8. reinstall the headlight trim.

Repeat for the other side.

You don't have to run the supplied harness. The purpose of the supplied harness is to help reduce any voltage drops to headlights due to aged stock headlight wiring.
You are talking like I talk to my kids LOL. awesome.
Will do Dad!
No, seriously, thanks for the info. I think this is how I will go, based on complexity and price.

Thanks,
J
 
If you buy the 80/100 watts h4s, you should get the relay harness too. The heavier wire that delivers a strong 12v from the battey will give your new bulbs the power they need.
H4 bulbs will work fine with the stock FJ60 wiring. No need for an aftermarket harness.
maybe true with 50/60 watt but why bother with 80/100 if your not going to go with relays, heavier gauge wire and 12 direct from the battery? To the OP, go ahead and get the lights and lens, but if like Seth mentions in step 1, you have dim lights that get brighter when you rev up...then you can always add the harness later.
 
You are talking like I talk to my kids LOL. awesome.
Will do Dad!
No, seriously, thanks for the info. I think this is how I will go, based on complexity and price.

Thanks,
J
1634740692305.png


Haha, just want it to be clear as there is a lot of misinformation running around as to what works with what.
 

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