Stock auto trans and transfer. Rear shaft is good I did a spring over and angled it up a bit.
Fj60 diesel conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiser guy
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I sure like my Dana 300.... iron case, all-gear, 2.72 low range, dual shifter - if you do all the updates to it (4:1 gearing, 32 spline output), you'll be in it about $1,500.... as the Atlas 2 is based on the Dana 300 design, that's about a $1,000 savings over the Atlas.
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- #483
I thought about a dana 300 but I read they were all 28 spline input??
I'm running a Dana 300 that's had the book thrown at it other than the 32 spline front output. You can buy custom input shafts for the Dana300 to adapt it to anything, so that's what I did and I've got it on my Dodge NV4500. Works very well, 4:1 lowmax gears, cable shifters, whole nine yards. Was running 1310 CV driveshafts for a while and kept blowing the damn things up, which has been fixed since moving to 1350s. Another time I split the transfer case input shaft in half. That's when I found out that the input shafts from JBConversions aren't made anymore (the guy was 100% a douche on the phone).
Dana300 is a good case, and is the design that AA based their Atlas cases off of, but it's not strong enough to hold up to the torque if you really beat on your truck. I probably have $1750 (maybe more) in aftermarket parts in my Dana300 and it's still not as strong as an atlas. If I were to do it again, I would have saved up to do the Atlas right out of the gate.
Fact... there is a reason that competitors use Atlas tcases.. They are just stupid strong.. D300 is good, and may hold up with all the upgrades. But it's not nearly as strong as an Atlas.
all the above is true... and it's why they're $1,000 less then an Atlas (not talking 'deals' because you can get those on either the 300s or the Atlases). They are 28 spline from the factory. I have the Novak 32 spline because I wanted the longer rear drive shaft and I already planned on an electric speedometer - so it was a no-brainer....
I know people who can break rocks in a sandbox, others who drive the weakest stuff and never ever break... it really depends on you and an honest assessment of how you drive/wheel.
I know people who can break rocks in a sandbox, others who drive the weakest stuff and never ever break... it really depends on you and an honest assessment of how you drive/wheel.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Yupp^^^^^^
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- #488
Update. I fixed the threads in the 241 and slammed it back in. Went on a rescue mission with it on new years and torture tested the whole rig harder then ever to get to where the stuck rig was and I'm happy to report no mechanical issues whatsoever other then my winch cable finally giving up its ghost!
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Marking your territory with diesel char. Nice!
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- #490
To ring in the new year (and warmer weather) I went down to Sand hollow in st george Utah (3 hours from me) to do some trails and long story short I learned I in fact need to cut fenders for 37s and those front leafs gave up on life from the trip. So now it's links and coil over time. Anybody ever done this on a 60? I would like to use 16 inch coil overs instead of 14s but I'm not sure if they will fit. What is your guys take on it?
that looks like a lot of fun.
16's may have to pop through the hood. It all depends on your ride height. Figure out what the collapsed length of the shock is going to be and what your full bump height is.
Sand hollow is a great time. I meet Woody there periodically to Wheel.
Sand hollow is a great time. I meet Woody there periodically to Wheel.
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- #493
Mace, it would be great to get a small group together and run down there. I'm trying to get my ride height back down to where it was when I pulled it out. So 14s might be the way to go
Generally 16" shocks are a bit overkill anyway.
Just let me know. I'm pretty busy for a couple weekends with KOH but in a month or so it'll slow down (and still not be too hot)
Just let me know. I'm pretty busy for a couple weekends with KOH but in a month or so it'll slow down (and still not be too hot)
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- #495
Will do. It will be a couple weeks anyways until my rig is back up
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Completely dependent on the amount of travel your geometry and how much fender you want to cut, and how you mount the shock. The way I'm going to do it is build and mount my links first, build faux shocks out of aluminum tubes inside one another, then shock towers/axle mounts, cycle it and THEN order shocks. Just like if you were ordering shocks for a leaf setup. Keeping the frame at the desired ride height on jackstands of course.
That being said I'm estimating my build will use a 14" shock, either coilover or ORI, haven't decided yet.
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- #497
I got serious about it recently. I have everything I need to do it. Unfortunately it's been snowing all week! (Of course) this weekend should be alot of great progress on the swap. These are the coil overs I went with. 14 inch fox competition shocks with quick external adjusters
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Good choice! Are those 2" or 2.5"?
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- #499
2.5"s
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- #500
Got the axle out and all cleaned up. Truss is tacked on and track bar mount is tacked on. Due to the track bar location I had to move my tie rod back down to the stock location (gives me a world more room to play with) unfortunately now I'm trying to rebox my diff cover to fit the steering from contacting when it's turning left. Tomorrow I will shove it back under and start setting up links
